chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 We had it going so well there for a couple of days. Trip reports and climbing talk out the ass!!! And now, we got like 5 threads on peace marching? Blech! OK the Oval carabiner thread was allright, but let's build on that and produce more climbing-related diversion!!! Greg W how was Index? Did you climb Libra Crack? Erik, you were probably out there too, what got sent? Liberate any pitons? I shamefully sulked around the office and worked a bit and otherwise chewed up a beautiful day. Today though I will heartily attempt to go out to The Rock. I will work on JayB's "Over the Rainbow" problem. WTF is up with that JayB, what's the beta getting from the 3rd to 4th hold? I can't figure that shit out. Wayne's Inspiration TR was excellent. Stuff like that (and more of it) puts this board way up there in terms of high-class climbing internet entertainment. Keep it up guys 'n gals. C'mon, I'm already fretting about this orange-alert-hide-in-your-bathroom-with-duct-tape-around-the-door-with-three-days-of-food-and-water shit enough. Why do I have to read it on this number 1 PNW climbing resource!? TALK SOME CLIMBING GODDAMNIT!!!!! meekly yours Chuck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I was solo, so I set up a fixed line on "Senior Citizens in Space" at Private Idaho. There are new belay anchors at the top now, so I didn't have to sling the tree. Did a few laps with a Petzl Expedition ascender and a prusik backup for a belay, sat in the sun and looked at the mountains. It was a beautiful day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 GREAT GREAT!!! EXCELLENT! That climb is fun huh? How do you think it got that crazy name? I figure it is because you can put your feet on one side of the dihedral and back against the other and just sit there like you're in a Lazy-Boy just hanging out but with a bunch of air under your butt, like a senior citizen in space!!! What do you think? And battered sandwhich. There's a good 'un. Cool name fun climb. Battered like smashed or battered like coated in batter? Greg next time you oughta try out your self-belay rig on End Run over at Hag Crag. That's what I was planning if I ever get around to that kind of shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 i didnt get to go. i went to the dentist and got my tooth fixed. it sucked. i was bitter all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Is End Run that 5.10 crack? I thought about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Marek and I did something. See out TR under the Rainier forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 Is End Run that 5.10 crack? I thought about it. It's the bolted slab just left of the crack, but the crack would be fun too I bet. Nice job Catbird! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 The face climbs to the right are pretty fun to if they are even visible through the moss these days. Speaking of TR soloing does anyone know if there are anchors on the Garden Rock? Or if it is too dirty to climb. By the way ChucK keep on pushing the climbing talk! PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I called in sick. Met my buddy Gene in Monroe and had breakfast at the Sultan Bakery. They have the BEST toast anywhere! When we got out of the car in Index it was cold and windy. By the time we got to the Upper Town Wall, it was still breezy but warm. We climbed Davis-Holland to Lovin Arms. On the wall it actually was hot! Absolutely astounding weather for February. I'd hang up my skis for the season if I could keep having a few days like that. Total of 5 cars in the parking lot with people on all the usual suspects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Saw it; looks nice. If I had had more time I would have hit battered sandwich as well. That's a fun one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slothrop Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 What's the Over the Rainbow problem? JayB showed me a four-move problem one time that had me stumped for a while at the third move. Maybe he's sandbaggin' both of us the same way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 PP, Yeah Free Cat is/was really nice but I think it's coated now. Don't know for sure about Garden Wall for, but I walked by it last spring (with Matt H and Dr. Jay) and my Mind's Eye says "mossy". DBerdinka cool man! What's up with that last pitch of Lovin' Arms? What line did you take? I have previously a) bailed to the left via the horizontal halfway up, b) climbed up that cracklike looking thing that run up right of center. Someone told me the other day that the route (above the horizontal) actually goes straight up, left of the cracklike thingy, and has one bolt hidden in it somewheres. Can anyone comment on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 The face climbs to the right are pretty fun to if they are even visible through the moss these days. Speaking of TR soloing does anyone know if there are anchors on the Garden Rock? Or if it is too dirty to climb. By the way ChucK keep on pushing the climbing talk! PP peter i scrubbed garden bolulder last summer there is i think one or two 1/4"ers on top...though my memory is slightly foggy knob job is clean with bolt studs on top too graden wall...well that lives up to its name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Saw it; looks nice. If I had had more time I would have hit battered sandwich as well. That's a fun one. Battered Sandwich was a fun climb on Saturday. That thing beat me up and I felt it until yesterday. My hands are finally starting to look normal. I need to keep working on my offwidth technique... What do you do when it's too big for fists, too small for elbows, wrong angle for arm bars, and awkward for your feet? Maybe I need to try my first handstacks, just can't figure out how I'll move up with both hands in the crack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 What do you do when it's too big for fists, too small for elbows, wrong angle for arm bars, and awkward for your feet? Lieback Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 What do you do when it's too big for fists, too small for elbows, wrong angle for arm bars, and awkward for your feet? LAYBACK THAT MF'ER: TECHNIQUE OF NO TECHNIQUE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 Saw it; looks nice. If I had had more time I would have hit battered sandwich as well. That's a fun one. Battered Sandwich was a fun climb on Saturday. That thing beat me up and I felt it until yesterday. My hands are finally starting to look normal. I need to keep working on my offwidth technique... What do you do when it's too big for fists, too small for elbows, wrong angle for arm bars, and awkward for your feet? Maybe I need to try my first handstacks, just can't figure out how I'll move up with both hands in the crack. When Ray and I did "Battered Sandwich" I recall we climbed inside that thing. Or are you talking about lower down before you get into the chimney proper? I think I liebacked that thing, but that makes it awkward to transition into the chimney. I guess I don't really remember, it was a couple years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 What's up with that last pitch of Lovin' Arms? What line did you take? I clipped the bolt, unclinged the hollow flake, pulled up and over into the crack like thingy, got pumped, got desperate, hung on a shitty piece, than escaped up and right into a dirty mantel. The crack-like thingy is totally misleading. Rapping off I realized there is a whole series of hidden holds maybe 6' left of the crack-like thingy. Looks like the gear isn't to bad either. The last pitch is certainly a stinker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 specially for .9 i love that route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 I had fun bouldering/soloing in the Columbia river gorge east of the Dalles last friday. And then on Sat I went inbound skiing with my 8 year old daughter and managed to fall and severly stretch out a tendon in my thumb...fuck,fuck,fuck! I am out of commision. I convinced the orthopedist to make a splint that will fit in a glove but I will be limited to moderate alpine, drinking, and chomping glucosamine for atleast 5 weeks. The ice out here is starting form (again)...alot a good that's gonna do for me. Climb safe so you can save your injuries for the easy (stupid) stuff. what's with the yellow print, Dru. I got eye strain trying to read it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 13, 2003 Author Share Posted February 13, 2003 Lieback or LAYBACK ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg_W Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 TG- Wanna share some beta on where you were? I pass through that area a few times a year and it makes a perfect rest spot to break up the drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT JAMKING IS A TECHNIQUE FOR PEOPLE WITH TECNIQUE...LAYBACK IS FOR THOSE WITH NO TECHNIQUE EG: SPORT CLIMBERS OR THOSE WITH SMALL HANDS AND BIG FOREARMS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 13, 2003 Share Posted February 13, 2003 (edited) Quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT JAM IT -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- JAMMING IS A TECHNIQUE FOR PEOPLE WITH TECNIQUE...LAYBACK IS FOR THOSE WITH NO TECHNIQUE EG: SPORT CLIMBERS OR THOSE WITH SMALL HANDS AND BIG FOREARMS Technique is for wusses...grab the edge and yank... Question: How do you use your feet? Answer: PULL HARDER... Edited February 13, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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