Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
manninjo

Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

Recommended Posts

PXL_20210902_022213906.jpg.edcd51ef308ad406dca7e4b85dab153a.jpg

Rappelling in from the top of Springboard last night after work to do a couple long TR solo laps on the main wall, I discovered someone in the I'm guessing in the last 24-72 hours added 3 bolts to the second pitch of Zig Zag. 

This is a multipitch trad climb that literally generations of leaders have cut their teeth on. It's classic in the sense that its an easier multipitch trad climb reasonably close to population centers in western Washington. There are very few other climbs like it in the region. 

Pitch 2 is sporty but relatively easy, barely 5th class, a place for the leader to work on their head skills, manage a bit of a runout, and breathe a sigh of relief when they get in a good cam. 

I've read people's accounts of running into a retrobolt on a climb that was part of their growth as a climber and getting shocked and saddened, I now understand exactly what that feels like.  I personally have never been really "anti bolt" but this crosses a line. Dallas Kloke, who I never got the pleasure of meeting, must be rolling over in his grave. I remember reading a trip report of his on this site where he climbs Zig Zag at night, in the winter. 

After doing a couple laps on Frogs, I climbed past the bolts to try and understand what was going on. If someone thinks this is an independent line worthy of being squeezed in, its simply not. It is squarely in the middle of the second pitch. Only the 3rd new bolt is a bit higher than the natural, "easiest" line.  

I am asking the equipper to remove the bolts at their soonest convenience, so they can use the hangers on an existing anchor upgrade or something. 

 

PXL_20210902_021819852.jpg.4700b66ebbfdfdd829d53aaae31cd0fe.jpg

PXL_20210902_021834184.jpg.adffd58f8e7c39d33012fa5e4537682e.jpg

 

 PXL_20210902_021856192.jpg.a9a66948d5fb8dee46522d60c7d793db.jpg

 

 

PXL_20210902_021840152.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wait till I climb it with my 14yo kid before anyone chops it.  would rather not traumatize the boy.

I have climbed it a bunch of times too but don't think this is some kind of travesty.  it is actually a good thing.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

People don't get to change existing routes without the permission of the FAer(s). That's the ethic in North America as far as I can tell. If it's too scary for you, find another route. I'd say chop away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remove the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Turn the blade of an old hack saw 90 degrees and saw the bolt off close to the rock. Punch the stud down in the hole with a hammer. New bolts are not to be placed on old routes. Keep the hangers and make a wind chime.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This summer Zigzag, the boat launch wall at Larrabee and a very good route in the Twin Sisters have all been retro bolted.  I would assume by three different parties.   

I’d say it’s a general and growing trend.  Drills are cheap and good.   Being a route developer is in vogue, rock is a limited resource and our general cultural illness of “don’t tell me what to do”  continues to grow.    

 Expect to see a lot more of this in the near future.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What a bunch of BS. Zig Zag is such a classic, why anyone would think they need to change it is to fit there ideas makes me wanna take my cordless sawzall out for a stroll.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hats off to the OP for adding a comment on MP. I added one there too. Whoever did this needs to know this is not OK.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sigh.   While usually in the the camp of "whatever" - this one seems quite unnecessary.   It's not like it's Bachar-Yerian up there, it's quite casual.    Not every climb needs to be pedestrian.  Agreed - retro-bolter should admit mistake and take it out as cleanly as possible.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×