Zig Zag, Mt. Erie, Pitch 2 retrobolted

[manninjo]

Rappelling in from the top of Springboard last night after work to do a couple long TR solo laps on the main wall, I discovered someone in the I'm guessing in the last 24-72 hours added 3 bolts to the second pitch of Zig Zag. 

This is a multipitch trad climb that literally generations of leaders have cut their teeth on. It's classic in the sense that its an easier multipitch trad climb reasonably close to population centers in western Washington. There are very few other climbs like it in the region. 

Pitch 2 is sporty but relatively easy, barely 5th class, a place for the leader to work on their head skills, manage a bit of a runout, and breathe a sigh of relief when they get in a good cam. 

I've read people's accounts of running into a retrobolt on a climb that was part of their growth as a climber and getting shocked and saddened, I now understand exactly what that feels like.  I personally have never been really "anti bolt" but this crosses a line. Dallas Kloke, who I never got the pleasure of meeting, must be rolling over in his grave. I remember reading a trip report of his on this site where he climbs Zig Zag at night, in the winter. 

After doing a couple laps on Frogs, I climbed past the bolts to try and understand what was going on. If someone thinks this is an independent line worthy of being squeezed in, its simply not. It is squarely in the middle of the second pitch. Only the 3rd new bolt is a bit higher than the natural, "easiest" line.  

I am asking the equipper to remove the bolts at their soonest convenience, so they can use the hangers on an existing anchor upgrade or something. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Phil K]

Same looser who bolted Little Sister?

[genepires]

wait till I climb it with my 14yo kid before anyone chops it.  would rather not traumatize the boy.

I have climbed it a bunch of times too but don't think this is some kind of travesty.  it is actually a good thing.

 

[Rad]

People don't get to change existing routes without the permission of the FAer(s). That's the ethic in North America as far as I can tell. If it's too scary for you, find another route. I'd say chop away.

[Otto]

Remove the nut with a 9/16" wrench. Turn the blade of an old hack saw 90 degrees and saw the bolt off close to the rock. Punch the stud down in the hole with a hammer. New bolts are not to be placed on old routes. Keep the hangers and make a wind chime.

[dberdinka]

This summer Zigzag, the boat launch wall at Larrabee and a very good route in the Twin Sisters have all been retro bolted.  I would assume by three different parties.   

I’d say it’s a general and growing trend.  Drills are cheap and good.   Being a route developer is in vogue, rock is a limited resource and our general cultural illness of “don’t tell me what to do”  continues to grow.    

 Expect to see a lot more of this in the near future.

[sepultura]

What a bunch of BS. Zig Zag is such a classic, why anyone would think they need to change it is to fit there ideas makes me wanna take my cordless sawzall out for a stroll.

[Rad]

Hats off to the OP for adding a comment on MP. I added one there too. Whoever did this needs to know this is not OK.

[Jim]

Sigh.   While usually in the the camp of "whatever" - this one seems quite unnecessary.   It's not like it's Bachar-Yerian up there, it's quite casual.    Not every climb needs to be pedestrian.  Agreed - retro-bolter should admit mistake and take it out as cleanly as possible.

[DPS]

On 9/4/2021 at 9:13 AM, dberdinka said:

This summer Zigzag, the boat launch wall at Larrabee and a very good route in the Twin Sisters have all been retro bolted.  I would assume by three different parties.   

I’d say it’s a general and growing trend.  Drills are cheap and good.   Being a route developer is in vogue, rock is a limited resource and our general cultural illness of “don’t tell me what to do”  continues to grow.    

 Expect to see a lot more of this in the near future.

I remember when the Boat Launch wall was retrobolted in the early 90's, replacing the old 1/4" bolts with 3/8" bolts. Were additional bolts added or the 25+ year old bolts replaced?

[manninjo]

These are 3 brand new bolts between the 1st pitch anchors and 2nd pitch anchors on Snag ledge, where previously there were no bolts. There are other recent squeeze jobs at Erie (at powerline wall for example) that merit a sad head shake but don't rise to the level of "WTF?!" I was on the main wall last week and didn't realize they are actually 1/2 inch bolts and too big for the wrench on the metolius nut tool. 

These bolts change the character of a classic "learning" route by drawing a line up that section of rock rather than following one's nose on lead. I've climbed this route with lots of folks breaking into trad climbing and it really should remain a "traditional" route.  

I'd seen about the Boat Launch wall and Sisters range, these ill-conceived bolts seem like a trend and its not one I want to see. I'm all for bolts where they make sense, this just shouldn't be one of those places.