Solo Alpine Climbs in North Cascades National Park

[Cascade Renegade]

Does anyone have anyone suggestions for good climbs in North Cascades National Park off highway 20 that are safe to solo??

[genepires]

safe is a relative word.  you may need to define your characteristic of a safe climb.

I would say sahale peak from sahale arm side (not sahale glacier side) and maybe some lines up around the ptmarigan traverse side but I have not been over on that side.

if hiking on somewhat mellow glacier solo is acceptable, I would suggest eldorado peak. 

 

[JasonG]

So....no ropes or glacier travel @Cascade Renegade?  If so....Thornton Peak, West MacMillan Spire, and Mount Prophet would fit the bill.  There are other options other than accessed by Hwy 20.  But any of the above are still full on adventures where you could easily be hurt or killed if you aren't experienced in off trail travel and scrambling.

[bedellympian]

I second W MacMillan and Eldorado as good options. Edited: Not off Hwy 20 and, but Fisher Chimneys HAS LOTSA CREVASSES, NOT RECOMMENDED!!!

Edited May 26, 2021 by bedellympian

[genepires]

15 hours ago, bedellympian said:

I second W MacMillan and Eldorado as good options. Not off Hwy 20 and a bit riskier maybe, but Fisher Chimneys on Shuksan is pretty awesome. 

going solo through hells highway on fisher chimney route would be terrifying. 

[bedellympian]

4 hours ago, genepires said:

going solo through hells highway on fisher chimney route would be terrifying. 

When I did it in June '16 it was pretty chill. Boot pack on easy snow. Seems like you can stay far enough from the edge to not worry about anything but a fully catastrophic serac failure? I have a few guide friends who are very risk averse but have enjoyed that route as a romp. 

[genepires]

19 hours ago, bedellympian said:

When I did it in June '16 it was pretty chill. Boot pack on easy snow. Seems like you can stay far enough from the edge to not worry about anything but a fully catastrophic serac failure? I have a few guide friends who are very risk averse but have enjoyed that route as a romp. 

and I have see it in late july with 4 wall to wall crevasses that had sketch bridges that failed before our return back from summit.  the hydro dynamics of glacier flow through that notch guarantee that there are crevasses that you may or not see.  if one was forced at gun point to solo a glacier, the sulphide glacier on shuksan would be a better choice.  or eldorado pk.

traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous.  recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.

[DPS]

2 hours ago, genepires said:

traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous.  recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.

Totally agree. 

[bedellympian]

4 hours ago, genepires said:

and I have see it in late july with 4 wall to wall crevasses that had sketch bridges that failed before our return back from summit.  the hydro dynamics of glacier flow through that notch guarantee that there are crevasses that you may or not see.  if one was forced at gun point to solo a glacier, the sulphide glacier on shuksan would be a better choice.  or eldorado pk.

traveling on glaciers in late august thru september is very enlightening to exactly what one has walked over just 2 months previous.  recommending a glacier as "chill" without seeing that same glacier bare of winter coverage is reckless advice.

Good points. I retract my recommendation! 

[Bronco]

How about S. Ridge of Black Peak?  

[JasonG]

Black is a good one! Right on the edge of the park.  Corteo is a fun scramble if you don't mind soloing exposed 4th class.

McGregor out of Stehekin is a good scramble.  Silverstar also, though not technically in the park.

[Choada_Boy]

I 2nd Gene's advice  Plonked a ski pole basket into a gaper on the Sulphide during a solo attempt.  Super-mellow snow walk to that point.  Caught the fear and turned around.  Buyer Beware!! 

[geosean]

I would recommend Glee and The Roost just south of West McMillan Spire if you are looking for more like class 2. Some would consider Mixup Peak soloable, not me though. Magic was fun and solo worthy, as well as Hurry Up; I did those in a day as a group solo. I believe the Cache Glacier is widely considered soloing territory. 

[nonbasketless]

I mean, Wayne FA'd Mongo Ridge solo