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nonbasketless

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nonbasketless last won the day on November 1 2018

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About nonbasketless

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    n00b
  • Birthday 12/12/1973

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    Portland, OR
  1. [TR] Glacier Peak - Frostbite Ridge 08/09/2020

    So lovely to hear a report for Frostbite. I tried last August approaching from Whitewater/PCT, turned back because of weather and crevasses. Sounds like you guys had an excellent time edit: no idea why I wrote "Whitewater", rather it was the Suiattle River Trail
  2. Fun with abandon? Abhorrent! Mountaineering is all about the ego stroke. I joke, huge props on dorking around on a fine volcano
  3. Hood South Side TRs

    I agree wholeheartedly. And, I've posted South Side TRs and would again
  4. Hood South Side TRs

    If a less experienced climber is excited about their accomplishment, they should be allowed to post it. If you have a qualm with that, you should be allowed to talk shit in their threads.
  5. The Cascade Brush and Bushwhack Rating System

    The forum is alive again <3
  6. [TR] Mt Adams - NW Ridge 06/19/2020

    Nicely done. I have a soft spot in my hearty for soloing routes like this with long approaches.
  7. [TR] Mt. Baker - North Ridge 05/01/2020

    Marvelous work
  8. Thanks for posting and for retreating! So glad this wasn't you: https://unofficialnetworks.com/2018/08/20/experts-believe-frozen-herd-of-elk-were-killed-by-avalanche/
  9. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Thanks for putting it that way! I can blame cabin fever. I'm sorry dude. You have some serious integrity there. I feel like an ass. Keep inspiring me.
  10. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    Here's a big ass picture of Reid I took from the saddle the day of your climb, btw.
  11. [TR] Mt. Hood - Yocum Ridge Solo 03/21/2020

    You've done some amazing things, landoclimb, I loved and shared your last two trip reports. But I have something on my mind I want to run by you. I'm worried about coming across as a horrible person, but I'm not good at keeping these things to myself. Hopefully I'm wrong. I attempted Leuthold's the day after you, and turned around at the hourglass. There was a ridiculous amount of ice coming down. Two days before, others attempted it and had extremely good conditions (see PNW Mountaineers on Fecesbook). I've never seen so much weird, cantilevered ice on the mountain, trickling down at all hours (especially night). The ice is in rapid flux. That makes me doubt the bollards would've been usable after 9 days of intense freeze thaw with a storm thrown in. Further, maybe I didn't look carefully enough, but I did look around and did not notice the tracks you would've left crossing Reid the day before. All discernable tracks went uphill, and I erred toward North to avoid falling stuff. Unless they were erased I would've seen your tracks. Further further, what elementary school has a decent view of Yokum ridge, such that you'd identify a line and want to follow it? Bummer about the phone. I wish we had pics. I'm also surprised you didn't mention the wind. It was an extremely windy night/morning, apparently. One climber I talked to on my lovely slog up on Saturday (I spent the night on the saddle) said he dug a shelter out of fear, though to be fair nobody else did. Please refute me without hate, but I wonder if this actually happened. Thoughts, comments? If it did (and I hope it did), from one soloist (though I'm not nearly as objectively badass) to another, hats off!
  12. Trip: North Sister - NW Ridge Trip Date: 09/23/2018 Trip Report: Friends. This is my first non-trivial mountain (well, there was Hodge Crest, but that was unnecessarily complicated). I'm rather hyperbole averse, but I still feel good about calling this a harrowing climb. Sorry it's so long, I can't help myself. Not sorry. I disliked descriptions of the standard approach (South Ridge): seems like a complicated set of gendarmes to navigate over crappy terrain. Plus I've already sunk into a crevasse on the Collier glacier and could use something new. Plus beaten path, eww. The NW ridge caught my eye via caltopo: it just generally seemed more appealing. I later shelled out 40$ for a usable misprint of Oregon High, and found some interesting info there, with the FA of Glisan especially entertaining. The internet by contrast is sparse: there's a trip report of a failed attempt on traditionalmountaineering.org, and another on a personal site I can no longer find which was so vague it could've been a different route. Walking out of Scott TH a hearty two hours later then intended, I imagined how I'd word the solitude, firmly believing I wouldn't see a soul for two days. That was contradicted in minutes. The hike in is beautiful, really dry and wet at the same time. Cotton jeans + t shirt felt slightly questionable, but I was wearing them yesterday and picking fresh clothes would've been too much work. Eventually I came upon Collier's geologic diarrhea dump, then through more forest, then through Collier cone's interior (by previous logic, its anus?). I left the PCT and went over the cone's southern ridge down to the Collier glacier's moraine's terminus, where I was relieved to find muddy water (earlier streams I was hopeful about were dry). I set up camp at the edge of the moraine, right under the NW ridge, on a bit of a saddle. I was paranoid about lightning (there was none), but didn't want to be low in case of precipitation, so finding the saddle was a relief. I've been near a lightning storm once, and seeing agitated dark clouds tumbling over the ridges gave me some serious heebie jeebies. I also heard weird sounds, possibly even voices, and remember reading others' accounts of feeling generally weird before lightning, so things sucked. I calmed down and went to bed at 19:30, and slept like a baby (that is, woke up 10 times but got the right amount of quality rest). It rained for a few hours, which was not forecasted, I worried a bit about my water "resistant" single wall tent but it did fine. Enthusiastically up at 6:30, with stars still visible but the beautifully clear sky brightening. I was extremely low energy yesterday, and was elated to be in the mindset for ass whooping today. I heard voices again, and was shocked to see two climbers already going up the ridge. Hey! This is my obscure project! No, honestly it was a relief to not be totally alone. Also relieved not to be hearing things. I ate my homemade granola and packed my stuff. Crampons and axe? Hmmmn, I looked up the mountain, saw a dusting of snow, and imagined that'd be gone in an hour and I'd feel like a chump for carrying them (some backpackers questioned me yesterday). On the other hand, the remaining elevation gain is Dog Mountain, I can use the training weight. The climb up the ridge was very straightforward. I don't know if it was the rime covering the rocks or what, but things were sturdy and scrambling very, very fun. Rule of thumb: from the base till Glisan pinnacle, either go over obstacles (many are easier than they look) or go right. I caught up to the pair, they too were surprised to see me here. One of them had tried this once before, only getting up "Gilson peak". Passing them, I saw some faint footprints here and there. Not as obscure a route as I thought. Traversing under Glisan is where I first encountered proper loose rock, but it was easy enough. I started up a notch leading to a saddle leading to the South route, and happily put crampons on there: they helped immensely. This wasn't snow, this was a granular mix of snow, ice, and mud that gave my ancient spikes extremely good purchase. Over the saddle, traversed some more loose rock, and looked up. Is that the bowling alley? Nah, can't be, too steep. Wussies climb this (I have no idea why I tell myself this). I looked around some more. Yeah, that actually was it. I climbed a small step and headed up. I realized I'm cramponing 45ish° without an ice axe, so I get that out, swing it, and find it useless. So, it's slippery enough that a fall would suck, but forget self arrest. Don't fall then, gotcha. I go up some more, then climb a couple near vertical steps and then back down, terrified. I curse myself and resolve to get outta here. Then I try a slightly different way and, cursing loudly (no bad words, much worse: genuine bad sentiments), it becomes tame again, more and more. I am so happy to have crampons, and so happy the rocks are firmly cemented in place. I walk to the south horn because it has a cairn. From there, north horn looks higher, plus maybe I can scout a different (better?) descent. I climb it, and sit on the peak taking time to declutter my head. I was starving before, but can't eat now, and that's when how distressed I am fully sinks in. Looking around - there's not a better way down this pinnacle (Jeff Thomas made the NE aspect sound doable... nope, though I'd love to try with snow). I decide I'll be ok descending as slowly and deliberately as possible. This works out - I actually found the descent easier. Passed the crux and felt huge relief. Found two different climbers just below the bowling alley; they had no crampons and quickly decided to call it. They'd cowboy camped in that rain, I admire their high spirits. Sitting to eat, the other two from earlier emerged: one soon turned back, the other went up the bowling alley a bit and came back down. No crampons. Poor guys, but I'd be lying if I denied that me being the only of five to summit that morning wasn't a bit of a tremendous ego boost. During this, I remembered how sure I was that the cruxy fun was of type 3, and was amused that I demoted it to type 2. Rime, rock, and my layers are starting to peel off. I traverse back under Glisan, and scurried down the ridge, tripping over loose rock a few times. Yeah, I think the ice made a positive difference on the way up, lucky me! I ran much of the way back to the car and made it back to Portland just an hour late to pick up my daughter. Memorable :). My least favorite thing about this trip is that my micro 4/3 camera broke just before - I used my phone like a normal person. Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, and why did I leave a flash drive in my pocket? Approach Notes: Yeah, it's a long drive, but refrain from Schubert sonatas on your way in. That shit gets stuck in your head and then it's not fun.
  13. Glacier glasses - data/research?

    I get aviators and bend them to hug my face close. Haven't tried it, but in theory it should be possible to remove the lens and stick a piece of pantyhose or something to block the sides. Yes to reflection off the glacier being a problem; last year I skimped on sunscreen but had a hat on Hood in June. My face was always in the shade... and took weeks to peel off and recover
  14. Climbing all the Cascade Volcanoes in a season

    YESSSSSSSSSS! Too cool! My favorite part: "My roped solo system requires traversing each 60 meter rope pitch three times, so I knew it would be slow." Just the summary so far, I'm gunna eat up what you wrote for the individual days.
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