[TR] Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred 04/15/2018

[John Frieh]

Trip: Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred

Trip Date: 04/15/2018

Summary: Ascent of Moose's Tooth to the summit via the route "Shaken, Not Stirred" 19 hours camp to camp with Doug Shepherd April 15th 2018.

Details: Alaska. Finally. After multiple trips to Alaska every year since 2009 life priorities had forced me to take a "leave of absence" since my last trip in March of 2016. It was nice to finally return and with Doug Shepherd, someone who I've done numerous trips with including my very first trip to AK in 2009.

Various existing commitments limited us to a 3 day trip but weather and temps the week leading up suggested we would likely find something we could climb during the short window. I grabbed Doug at ANC early Saturday morning and we blasted for Talkeetna.

After the usual shenanigans (weight in, repack) Paul zipped us in. After looking at possible objectives on the flight in we settled on Shaken, Not Stirred on the Moose's Tooth. Though I had climbed the Moose's Tooth in 2010 it was via Ham and Eggs. I'd always wanted to climb Shaken but had never seen it in.

A SLC team was coming out at the same time we were getting dropped off and had attempted it the day prior. They had bailed at the crux due to lack of ice but after quickly looking at their pictures we thought we should at least give it a try as it appeared like it would go with some mixed climbing.

We departed camp later than normal on Sunday (~6 am) to allow temps to warm slightly; this allowed us to wear single boots. I took the first simul block to just below the narrows where Doug took over. Doug fired a few amazing pitches that took us to the crux which was ice free but Doug was able to safely protect and find a mixed way through the crux. Following the pitch I have to say it was a very impressive lead.

Some more climbing took us to the Englishman’s Col where we enjoyed an extended hydrate + coffee break before heading to the true summit.  I will say the terrain between the Englishman’s Col and the true summit is a lot of up and down with at least two rappels and nearly constant crevasse and cornice danger. "Enjoy"

We tagged the summit sometime after sunset but before dark; Doug's first time and my second. We managed to start the rappels down Ham and Eggs before it got truly dark so at that point it was just hitting rap anchors and/or making naked threads as needed. 

We arrived back at camp ~19 hours later and flew out the following day, Monday, before heading back to the lower 48. Good times.

Gear Notes:
partial set of nuts, single set 00-2 c3, double set 0.4 -> 4 ultralights, 10 laser speed light ice screws, 3 micro trax, single + tag line

Approach Notes:
Talkeetna Air Taxi is the best

Edited May 21, 2018 by John Frieh

[olyclimber]

Great pictures, awesome trip.  Thanks John! You must have a nice frequent flier airline card score.

[JasonG]

Those are good priorities to take time away for @John Frieh , but we're glad that you're back at it!  Spectacular climb, wow. 

Is that chockstone pic above the crux?

[John Frieh]

@olyclimber Air France and Alaska Air love me but not for my climbing travel 

[John Frieh]

@JasonG the chockstone pic is the actual crux; ice or no ice. Looking at the guidebook and the few other pics I could find usually the ice forms a curtain over the chockstone which I could see making it a little easier...? Either way it was a fun day out for us

Edited May 21, 2018 by John Frieh

[JasonG]

9 minutes ago, John Frieh said:

the chockstone pic is the actual crux; ice or no ice.

Ah, that's what I meant, the chockstone pic you posted above. Looks stout!!

[jon]

Tactical facemasks are the new windshirts! Nice work, Baller!

[John Frieh]

@jon 

I clip them on my neutrinos. And they save ones face a little when someone forgets the sunscreen 

[Stefan]

You make this sound like a normal god damned weekend trip.

...oh, I went to Alaska....

...didn't know what to climb...

...as we were walking by Moose Tooth we decided to give this route a shot....

...we were home the next day...

[OlympicMtnBoy]

Nice work, what a way to do a "long weekend"!

[The Real Nick Sweeney]

Sweet climb, sweet itinerary.

[Linnaeus]

Awesome TR, thanks for sharing. The definition of a successful smash & grab. 

Edited June 10, 2018 by Linnaeus

[JeffreyW]

Solid work!  Looks like a sweet trip!!

[wayoutwest]

This is so awesome. Inspiring!

[billcoe]

 

 

Badassery John! Great work you 2. I'm with Stefan, "let's get a climb in this weekend, yawn, did Mooses Tooth, went to work Monday..." LOL.