jja

On saturday three of us did the sw rib on sews. While leading the bear hug pitch I hear "John, are you in a good spot?" I turn around to see some dude in a t-shirt and shorts who had soloed up behind us shivering in the cold. "I'm getting kind of cold, mind if I pass?" So I sit tight at the bomber horn as bobbyperu breezes by. On Sunday we did nw corner of news. Mick climbs about once a year, Craig's a real good sport climber that hasn't done much trad, and I just generally suck. Add it all together and it = slow. But I never thought I'd get passed so much on one route. Starting up just behind us at the base of the route are Charlie and Christine, they split off right on the west face route as we continue up the nw corner. Another party starts up behind us and catch up to us at the offwidth pitch. Ben and Gus patiently wait in the cold (the sun always seemed about 10 ft away on this route) for us to finish the route, and then pass us on the summit scramble. On the decsent raps, charlie and chris pass us (again) and beat us back to the packs after having climbed news twice (wf and nw corner). I am so suck. Interesting aside: On the second pitch or so on Sunday, we hear this blood curtling bleating coming from the approach trails. It goes on for about 10 or 15 seconds. We find out later that an unleashed german shepard got gored in the gut by a goat. It's owner was a mom with two little girls with her. Apparantly she tied a coat around it's mid section to stem the bleeding. Don't know if it made it or not.

The ashes coming through the open car window provided our first clue ... hmm, maybe that fire thing is bigger than we thought good to see that you got up there after all

scott, did erd on Saturday - it goes in a day. the west ridge colouir looked thin but couldn't tell how difficult it would be from our vantage.

Leavenworth cragging saturday, forbidden on sunday. Here's to the great wx !!

thanks dru, that's a good resource.

what about the south arete of sews?

When are you going mvs? we'll be there from 9 - 17 Aug. Would love to get an up to date conditions report from you We've tentatively decided on edith cavell, athabasca, and temple with weather backups of brewers/ultra brewers and mt louis.

double ouch ... eat some food tyler !!

I haven't done this route in a few years, so I have no specific beta for you ... but don't sweat the route finding, on a summer weekend they'll be tons-o people. And if you're not bringing skis, the best thing on that slog is the glissade down from the false summit. By this time of the season it's probably a 4 ft deep bobsled-worthy groove. Have fun.

JG, I think it all depends on the ethics and style of the particular area and the climb in question. No one would say a summit of denali was illegit because a bush plane was used to get up on the glacier. So does denali bush plane = Elbrus chair lift? You'll have to answer that one for yourself. btw, ever been to chamonix? see all the telegraphiques that take climbers from the valley up to 10K? nobody ever bitches about those.

Does this mean it's snow free? thinking of just wearing sneakers this weeknd. tia.

agree with your babble 100%. for me sport climbing is the means, trad is the end. (i still suck at both though )

show me the pictures !!

MN, that hasn't stopped anyone else on cc.com

if you're talking about me, no worries - forbidden's not going anywhere, and I ended up climbing this weekend anyway. if you're not talking about me, well nevermind.

How boots fit are subjective ... everyone's feet are different. Having said that mine fit great, I got a pair of the extreme s's at the start of last winter and have used them for ice climbing and alpine climbing. Loosen the laces a bit and they're great for the approach, crank 'em down and the precision and light weight are worth half a grade on ice. I think the longest day I've done in them was about ~14m or so, and although I won't say I was dancing at the end, there were no blisters or anything untoward I would attribute to the boots. Just keep in mind that these are not full on winter mnt. boots. Walk around or climb in deep snow and your feet will get cold. They're really low cut as far as boots go, so be sure to wear gaiters. Learn the limitations though, figure out how to deal with them and these boots rock. I'll only use the plastics on big mtns now. as always, ymmv.

josh, i remember seeing a whole wall of trango s's at second ascent. don't remember the price, but i remember thinking that it was fairly reasonable - worth a call over there maybe. They've also got some off brand (least I never heard of them) summer mtn. boots for like $100. I've got the trango extreme s that I bought for ice climbing. They're the more insulated version. I've taken to using them for all sorts of mountain stuff. Hiked in earlier this spring from the closed gate at bridge creek to the lakes, did a climb and hiked back out and my feet were fine. I suspect the regular trango s's would be even comfier. as always ymmv.

way to go dave looking forward to "thrutching" up that chimney myself. Are you saying there's a better way to climb? I'll have to figure it out sometime.

Actually I had a pass .. left it in the glove box, smart huh? Aren't you even going to try to tell the truth and get out of paying the fine? Fundamental character flaw of mine - laziness. I'd rather just bitch about it and pay the 50 bucks.

Actually I had a pass .. left it in the glove box, smart huh?

I'm a wuss .. I'll pay it

So if I promise to bring my own toilet paper, will you pay my ticket for me Beck?

what can i say, my modesty got the best of me

you got it .. pays for all the shiny new trucks.

On the way out I was looking for one of their trucks, and I was gonna try the awe shucks routine, and basically kiss ass and suck up - but I didn't see any. The "I left the pass in my glove box" excuse is kinda like the "dog ate my homework" and wouldn't go over too well I 'spect. I think my only option now is to pay it or fight it.