jja

Here's another one I've never seen before. Just outside of town on 99 at one of the parking lot's near seaton lake. Looks fun, and convienently terminates at a tree.

hey dru, I don't know much about this area, but driving back home today there was a huge concentration of climbs between boston bar and yale, with more ice as you get closer to yale, on both sides of the valley, but especially on the other side of the rail tracks. Some of them seemed real real big. Has all this stuff been done?

Me and Greg_W drove route 2 last Sunday, it looked in then .. get a boat and go for it shit with all this cold the river's prolly frozen, fuck the boat

-22C and polish bob's firewater what more could you ask for this weekend

hey bob, I reserved a room at the mile-0 for thursday, friday, and saturday night. We'll (me and IIB) be there around 9pm on thursday. I'll be in the most boring car ever (white ford taurus), if somebody needs a floor <no bed snuggling for me > to crash on come find me (ask at the desk what room I'm <john aguiar> in).

ok mugs and jugs friday night. you like that kokenee crap right?

Dru, Do you know what the state of the river crossing for NnG is? Last year there were a couple of well placed 2x10's.

No photos. But kiddie cliff is on the left side of the valley a couple of hundred yards before you break out of the forest near source lake. It sometimes gets half buried in snow. From the upper parking lot follow the ski track (now closed to uphill traffic - see access forum) past the water tower until it turns into a single trail. Keep the cliff system(s) to your immediate left, you'll see some ice (or maybe not) in 30 - 45 minutes. There is some avi danger here, and at the climb itself, so buyer beware.

push me

I have to work on the 31st and the 2nd , but I'll be there on the 3rd and 4th with ice_ice_baby. Will there be a pube club north at mugs, or maybe the vic?

Dangerous, shamerous. Learn like I did .. buy a whole bunch of crap that you'll have to sell later cause you end up not liking any of it, then go out and find someone even less experienced than you and go have yourself an epic or two. Seriously, don't over think this. Find another novice and go spend a day on a tr on kiddie cliff at alpental. Then go to Lillooet and lead the first pitch of the left climb at the rambles (WI2) a bunch of times. Even a novice can do this with 3 or 4 screws. The central gully at rambles might be a little steep for you but the far right gully's first pitch is doable at wi2+ and the second pitch is 2-. You could also go do plan B in bridge river or god forbid go set up a tr at marble canyon. The point is, just get out there and climb, it's not rocket science, just stay on moderate terrain until you figure it out.

Somebody please sell me a more better ice map!! I'll even pay in canadian funny money.

Disclaimer: I take suck pictures. I only use a point and shoot, so this will only work with small cameras. But I've found it's handy to run the lanyard around my neck and then tuck the camera in the chest pocket of my jacket. It keeps the camera warm (important for the batteries esp on digital) and provides for quick one handed access w/o fear of dropping the camera. For rock climbing when I don't have a jacket on I use a small case I got at rei with a clip on it. I just clip it to my harness. Access here isn't as quick but w/o gloves it's easy enough and I don't worry too much about dropping it.

I was up there cause I had nothing to do this weekend, slept half the day on Saturday and was looking to get some exercise yesterday. Left the car at 8:15 road was walkable to about 8mile trailhead, then put on the snowshoes. Trail was distinct all the way to the winter turn off that goes straight up the hill to the mid point of the lake. I missed that turn off (if the winter trail's been established yet). Rather than look around for it or bushwack my own, I continued on the path of least resistance and followed the summer trail around to the south end of the lake (did a little bit of trail breaking here). Hit the lake at 12:30. I was struck by how cold it was at the lake, maybe low 20's. The lake was frozen, but I'm a wimp so I skirted the edge. No climbing, just out for the views, ate a sandwich, took some pictures and headed home. Great bluebird day! As far as the snow at the lake, colchuck glacier looked prime for skiing - at least the upper part. Would require some careful navigating down low by the lake to avoid base damage. Snow was a couple of inches of fluff over a breakable crust. Higher elevations had more fluff and less crust. Forgot to bring the binos (doh !) but there was ice here and there.

colchuck on 12/21

dragontail on 12/21

Alas, the ice map isn't mine. (and dru won't sell me one of his 3 ) In fact the one I was using was a map that a friend had borrowed from a friend. So I can't match your description against it. But wet lady is on the other side of the road - the same side as loose lady, rambles, tube, etc. The area and climb you describe sound an awful lot like twilight tiers. I've never been there either but it's apparantly a long multi pitch 3+ ish climb to the north of synchro. -john

Hey Nick, This wouldn't be in the area of "wet lady" would it? We thought about heading up there after seeing it on the ice map, but none of us had heard of it before and didn't want to hike up there (seems about the same elevation as the upper pitch of loose lady) and either not find it or not climb it. thanks, -john

hey bone, I've been 3x this year to lill. and every time I went I had know-it-alls tell me it wasn't going to be worth it, nothings in, it's gonna rain, yada, yada, yada. Fuck 'em all and go have fun !!

loose lady

Marble canyon was a little fatter this weekend but basically the same as the pictures I posted last week. The tube is in, but a little thin at the top, loose lady is in with the approach ice being wet and the top pitches with huge mushrooms and poorish pro (didn't do the top out due to darkness and wimpiness). Synchro looked a little fatter and probably doable but we decided against it. I heard - though did not check it out myself - that cherry ice was in. Honeyman is running water down the middle. I don't know anything about bridge river.

Wah, wah, wah, it's plenty cold enough. Local time (Lillooet): December 12, 2003 08:59 PST UTC time: December 12, 2003 16:59

Is twilight tiers to the right of synchro?

The approach for RWW is the same as for tres burly, just continue up the gully / drainage for another 45 minutes or so, until the cliffs and trees on the left open up with a steep slope through a cleft in the cliff system (there is a big tree about halfway up the slope). Go to the top of this slope, and only now will you see the route to your right. The whole approach took us about 2hrs, with a couple of mistakes. I've been told by my partner at the time that you can see RWW from the top of tres burly. By the way, the crux curtain has a bolted overhanging rock start if you choose. It starts behind the curtain in a little cave thing, then meets the ice about 1/3 of the way up the pitch. Don't know if this has been done yet, but I remember seeing the draws hanging from the roof, and thinking omfg !! First two pitches are 3/4, then the 5 curtain, then another pitch of 4. The last two pitches weren't in when we were there. I remember gilles had a copy of R+I or climbing with the route and approach beta. Gilles moved back to france last year, but maybe he remembers more than me if you want more beta. gilles_vandenbeuck@yahoo.com

Red Wall Wanderer is an awsome route, 6 pitches if it's all in with the third the giant curtain crux. I got rope gunned up it 3 years ago and would love to go back and do it with a little style this time. For sure the best thing I've been on in Lillooet.