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jja

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Everything posted by jja

  1. try the Post Office - it's the name of a bar in town.
  2. It was my post, and I didn't even go , maybe I'll make the twight thing at FF.
  3. ditto: http://www.ramutasresoles.com/
  4. Redmond rei parking lot. I've done it a 1/2 dozen times this year with no issue, my partners been doing it for a couple of years with out a problem. ... hope I didn't just jinx it.
  5. I learned 3 Lessons this weekend 1) I am a suckass climber 2) I am a suck ass drunk 3) Stout gives me the shizzitz, but man was it worth it ... actually I already knew 1 and 2.
  6. ... sneaking out of work at 3, hope the traffic's not too bad
  7. Last winter on night-n-gale, when pulling the screw out of the first v thread hole, had to wait almost a minute for the water to stop flowing. I'm the fat boy with the pack, but for some reason I rapped last after pulling the back up screw. When I pulled the backup screw it got me all wet when water started gushing out of that hole too. Last week on Chianti, the rap at the top of the first pitch is a little chockstone behind a block, that wiggles around, and is slung with really old and tattered webbing. I'm still fat so I rapped first with a backup gear anchor.
  8. that's just too funny bad rock ??? were they on the right mountain
  9. yeah the cam's on the second pitch of the east face of chianti - not clean break. the climbing was fun up till then. ... lifetime scorecard of lost gear is two ice screws, one cam, and one cut rope .. can't complain. -john
  10. ... not quite, we bailed. unless of course you mean vasiliki, in which case we forged a new class 4 variation of the standard class 3 route.
  11. Vasiliki Tower on Saturday, note the neat figure 8 rock formation in the first pic. My stuck #4 on the second pitch of rebel yell on chianti. Much good karma and many for anyone smarter than us that can get it out and get it back to me. Otherwise just clip it and send !
  12. 7pm on Sunday 9/21. It's a right shoe, red, "triop", around size 38 or so. It was in the parking lot, looked like someone left it by their car when leaving. ... hope I did the right thing by taking it rather than leaving it there. anyway, pm or email me.
  13. Haven't seen the new issue yet, but I'm sure I'll pick it up anyway, I've got them all so far .. by the way, the "other dude" is Kevin Mahoney from New Hampshire, who has been quietly doing a lot of gnarly stuff in AK, like the first alpine style ascent of czech direct a month before twight and co.
  14. At the risk of sounding like dr phil, we are all three different climbers ... 1. The climber we tell others that we are. 2. The climber that we think we are. 3. The climber that we really are. the trick is to get all three to match.
  15. WA Pass doesn't rate, so I have to choose "Misc. Crag" ? What's up with that ?
  16. .. depends. At least for me they're not warm enough for winter cascade stuff at altitude (ie. >10k). But for everything else they're warm enough with one exception - deep snow. Every time I've been in a prolonged post holing or deep snow situation my feet have gotten very very cold in these boots. I've got the trangos and the big honkin scarpa invernos, and i almost always take the trangos, I figure as long as I don't expect to get frostbite I can take a little bit of cold in exchange for the light weight, comfort, and precision. As always ymmv.
  17. after doing the approach slabs, bullet proof ice, rotten gullies, and scree, it's too bad you didn't get to finish the route - it's really sweet. we were going fairly slow too and hit the summit at 4:10 and back at the car at 10pm.
  18. Scott, was that you behind us on erd on monday? did you turn back?
  19. Yesterday the smoke reached all the way up to the unnamed glacier on forbidden, and for most of the day jberg was completely obscured. Like cbs, all my shit stinks like smoke.
  20. Could you even see what you were climbing in all that smoke? For most of the day yesterday I couldn't even see jberg from forbidden!! ... must have been hard on the eyes and lungs.
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