Kyle_Flick

That's funny. You were a patient of my Dad's. You must have grown up in the vicinity of the Innis Arden "Hood"? What I can't figure out, since leaving the neighborhood, is how does the old high school (Shoreline) become a senior center, and the school district become a city? ;-)

No, you're not dating yourself because of the hammer, but you are with the song/band. Love the song and a nice name for a route!

Nice meeting you at the Rope Up, Dan. We did a walk thru the Enchantments on Sunday too. We did a variation of the hike thru, namely, up icy Aasgard Pass to Prusik Pass to Rat Lakes out Toketie Canyon. The Larches were amazing hiking down the north side of Prusik Pass. Glad you and Teresa got out for what turned out to be quite a nice day.

You weren't seeing things. We were two parties of two that joined into a party of three when my partner was not feeling well. He lowered off One Tree Ledge (climber's left of Two Tree Ledge). Luckily, he didn't linger at the packs and took a walk before the rock took flight.

Sobo, The two fellas were in relatively good shape mentally and physically after spending the night out due to having adequate clothing to avoid hypothermia. They got a late start the day before and discovered that their headlamp was misplaced and not in the pack when they needed it; so they had to stop when it got dark. They were too cold this morning to continue up so they rapped down to Two Tree Ledge from the Pedestal pitch using a single rope (3 raps). Apparently the stations aren't entirely set up to allow for a single rope rappel. They had to back up the single bolt (anchor?) above Two Tree Ledge. Once they arrived at the Ledge, we had fixed a line down the ledges, climber's right, to the next rap. Once they clipped in to the line, they downclimbed on their own to the rap station where we had set up a single line rap from there to the ground. So it ended well. Insofar as the rockfall you heard yesterday, that was caused by the third in our party stepping on loose rock after she completed the traverse of Remorse. Thankfully no one was at the base in the line of fire. Incidently, there is debris left on the sloping ledge of One Tree Ledge and at the base of the wall from a car sized block that fell this past winter from what was formally part of the anchor/top of the 3rd pitch of Iconoclast.

Nice full value adventure Rolf and Eric. Unique position. Time to quit your day jobs.

Ditto what dberdinka said. FWIW, last year we did a reasonable day hike from Little Giant Pass (that way you get the Chiwawa River crossing out of the way first) down the trail to the Napeequa Valley and on up to High Pass. The route finding is simpler. We then headed out Buck Creek and had our car parked at Trinity in order to save several miles of road hiking. You might consider a bike, especially if you're thinking of extending the tour to Phelps Creek.

Check your PMs.

After talking with sheriff's office (who spoke with her climbing partner), it appears that Andy fell on the approach moraine before reaching Backbone Ridge. Apparently she lost her balance and fell backwards and down the east/left side of the moraine. Very sad. One would never suspect the moraine as dangerous, but it is exposed and obviously with some momentum after a slip, you would not be able to stop in the steep, compact dirt and rock. My condolences to her husband, family and friends.

I am so sorry to read about Andy. John Plotz and I were the ones on the route with you folks at the beginning and climbed to the offwidth just ahead of Andy and Bernie. When I spoke with her at the belay, I sensed she shared a love of and comfortable competence in the mountains. A true tragedy that she was taken before her time.

That's quite a compendium of climbs, Paul! Now you can relax on flat ground for awhile before starting the second phase of your climbing career...to repeat all those routes. BTW since you were on Liberty Cap, did you climb Rainier via Liberty Ridge this late in the season?

I was on the rescue last night. Interestingly, the sheriff found the cell phone call much more helpful for getting the necessary info for mounting the rescue. Kudos to the EMT climbers that helped stabilize the injured climber and hung out with him until dark. A special thanks to the Air Force pilots who were steady in the face of wind and increasing darkness in winching Clive out safely.

We've climbed it in October and it was quite doable, but the endless sidehilling on scree from the summit to Sahale Arm isn't pleasant.

Good work. Great location. Did you need an ax descending Sherpa Col or was it snow/ice free?

It is worth doing. We found wet conditions getting onto the buttress, but the climbing wasn't any harder than 5.8 on a couple of pitches. We didn't find any need to aid. Have fun!

My vote...carry over, Park Creek, home. Now if only they could hurry up and fix the road to the bakery.

Nice climb indeed and a wonderful tour of the area! Remarkable scenery. Oddly amongst all that seemingly farflung and remote terrain, the minors' tools are a surprise find as you are exiting Horseshoe Basin onto steep rock beginning the hike up to Sahale Arm.

...it was stuck and overcammed like the orange alien on Remorse.... Paying it forward...righhtt...Bootyman.

What is this...a confessional?

I think the route I described to the summit (north to south) is the standard route. Adding the traverse would open up more of the mountain's diversity for you with minimal effort (no rappelling or technical downclimbing back to Augille de Midi. So yes ice screw or two would be handy, but I think you can get by with a single tool. I don't recall bringing a second tool, but, on the other hand, an extra tool might add more security for you and your wife.

KK, I'll be darn. I think we camped next to you guys at 9000'. I was the one on skis for the approach to and descent from camp (but regrettably climbed to the summit in the rando boots which my hamburger for feet and ankles can attest was not a good idea). I doubt the Fuhrer Finger has seen so many parties at once. We were fortunate to pass folks on the ice section to access the Wilson Headwall to climb unimpeded and free from the rockfall, but we took our time as one in our party hadn't been up so high before and was feeling the affects of the altitude. We were the party of three rapping off of the bollard on the Kautz. Sorry to slow you guys. Daniel--why did you guys decide to camp at the hourglass? We were hoping you'd be okay because we heard rockfall (probably off the Wilson Headwall) during the night.

My recommendation is to go for it. I was over there with my wife and our two kids several years ago in August. While I can't vouch for the global warming since, it was well worth taking the gear over. While they rode the Augille du Midi, I continued on up the three Monts route, and after summiting, traversed down the to the Gouter Hut. The next day I met them down valley from Chamonix at Les Houches. Very scenic and popular. If your bride is able to get over the inevitable headache at the 15K summit, she will have a great time too. Caveat, it does have a technical part where a couple ice screws will be necessary, and it is steep in places, but mostly the climb is snow slogging. Reservations for the hut, while recommended, they don't normally turn you away if descending.

Years ago I took one of my sons up what I thought was the Temple and ended up on Stack Crag (immediate right of the Temple)--which Beckey points out from Tamarack Meadows looks taller than Temple on its left. Interestingly, there is a rock rib from the top of Stack Crag which will take you directly to the base of the climb on the Temple. As a side note for next time--The Professor would be a worthy objective accessed from Comet Spire--a cool looking 5.8 dihedral. You have all kinds of great climbing from Tamarack Meadows.

The conditions we encountered a couple of years ago in July were: 1) An exposed ramp to access the ridge on the north side which involved some mixed climbing; 2) No pro necessary for the hike along the ridge; 3) Some navigation necessary to access the glacier that had some 4th class exposure on steep rock; 4) It was steep getting over the schrund near the top of the glacier. I don't remember ever roping up though.

Telemarker and I were interested in heading in there to possibly ski Fortress and Chiwawa in a week or two also. Hope summer holds off a little longer.