Kyle_Flick

There was discussion amongst some of the local climbing community to present a plan to the park service several months ago. Although it didn't progress to any consensus, one opinion held sway, namely: Don't add bolts except to replace bad placements. If you can't or don't want to lead, then TR. One of our local climbing sages mentioned adding a bolt to access the anchor above Slender Thread, Cajun Queen, etc. Personally, I need to fix the anchor and a bolt or two on Butter Brickle.

If anyone who was up in the vicinity of the East Ridge of the Main Peak of Mt. Index and lost a snowshoe on the descent, we have it. PM me with a description of it for return.

We didn't need or use any rock gear. For the orient express you might want to take an ice screw or two and pickets, but we didn't use any.

Yep that's the one, but with a lot less snow and ice.

The 40' vertical drip we climbed was near the lake shore and was next to an overhang. There was much potential higher and on some lower angle slabs, but would require some ingenuity in the approaches.

We hiked up to Colchuck Lake on Sunday and climbed some good ice on the other side of the lake, below Jaberwocky tower. The hike in will be over 6 miles, though, due to the snow depth on 8 mile road.

We reinforced the rap anchor for Steel Grill (next to Bob's) last Saturday. Some of the cord was eaten thru.

A friend of mine climbed the north face of Booker years ago and reported that it had a couple of pitches of 5.8 with a fairly nice descent back to Park Creek by linking snow fields. May want to do it early season.

We theorized when searching for him last Sat.-Sun. that since he wasn't a climber, but liked going to lakes and off trail, that he probably got hurt enroute to some of the more isolated lakes rendering him immobile. Since he packed heavy, we hoped he'd be able to make shelter and wait out for the rescue because the weather has been cold and wintery up there. But so far no sign of a tent. The search is still ongoing, but winding down.

We were just up there this weekend too doing the search for the missing hiker and encountered only about 6" of snow up at the Enchantment/Lost World Plateau with only about a foot in places where it was windblown. Amazing difference from the week before where we were cragging in the sun.

My favorite and used to be the closest to Red Rocks is Arizona Charlie's.

Norman, I soloed it last year having only done the upper headwall before and took some pro and 30m of 7mm rope just in case. The lower section is fairly straight forward using Beckey's pictures. Long Johns Tower took a little searching to find the step across. The upper headwall should probably be done with the exposed short rising traverse onto the northside. I tried to avoid it by traversing 150' to the right to some cracks and a dihedral, but had to place some pieces to move thru a 30' section. Don't ask my wife whether she thought it was foolish to solo it sight unseen.

We did it as two rope teams of two last year and each did the lower section differently. Didn't really compare to the books we'd read. But once we reached the gendarme, the rest matched the guidebooks and was very enjoyable 5.7 on sound rock.

Good job NOLSe! You guys took an innovative approach to bypass the lower Ice Cliff in order to go lighter in your carryover. PM me with your beta if you choose not to post it here. Thanks.

It's deceptive up there. We were up there the weekend before and camped at the unnamed lake and then hiked up to the col west of where you guys were and then dropped down (Gloomy Glacier) and then up the slabs and snow. The summit block was fairly solid 3rd and 4th class rock. Next time may I suggest you consider carrying over and make a loop out of it. For example, we descended the Southeast side of Fernow into the Entiat Valley to the moraine below the N.F. of Maude. It can be done fairly swiftly by linking snowfields and glissading. The short grunt up to Spectacle Buttes may question the wisdom of this route, but once you reach the high point and look down to your camp below at Ice Lakes, all ill will is washed away. Then take the High Carne Mt. trail out the next day. A nice loop.

Nice TR of a Plan B traverse in wet and woolly conditions. With the good weather forecast this weekend we're planning a loop in the area with a return on the Carne Mt. high trail. Is there a way to link Chiwawa Mt. and Fortress?

Bug, We exited left thru the cornice. The slabs on the right were significantly melted out, and when we peered down from the summit, we were glad we stayed left. You guys went to the right up the slabs? The snow was fairly soft all the way up with short melting ice steps due to the warm temps. We wrongly postulated that it would get colder near the summit. Steve, The weather was generally overcast with little wind in the morning.

The schrund is melted out on the sides. We were able to gain the couloir by climbing up into the trough in the middle of the schrund. On 6/5/04, we experienced soft conditions due to the warm temps. Staying out of the center trough as much as possible, we avoided most of the sloughs coming down. Nice direct line up Colchuck.

Just to get back on the subject, I climbed with John Cahill in '95. We did the N.R. of Stuart and bivied on top. He was a fine mountainier and family man.

Juan, I agree wholeheartedly!

Climb: Wedge Mt.-The Chisel and Heronhead Date of Climb: 5/31/2004 Trip Report: Telemarker's persistence about climbing some obscure tower on Wedge Mt. (above Leavenworth) paid off when I relented and had him and his friend Ed take me to "The Chisel" this past Memorial Day. I still don't know how he found it, but Beckey and others first climbed it a half century ago (Ira Spring's photo found in the A.A.J.,1950). I looked at this as a consolation prize for my two previous failed attempts on the Flagpole. But the north face sports a stellar 5.9 pitch! As the pictures in the Gallery attest a perfect hand crack with some offwidth tossed in leading up to a small summit in a unique position to peer down at the Snow Lakes and surrounding peaks of the Enchantments. The old timers avoided the wide crack on the right in favor of an incipient crack but easier face climb on the left as evidenced by the old fixed pins. Armed with our modern day wide pro we chose the right side as it was easier to protect. On the west face, Beckey's Guide rates the climb as only 5.9, but it sports an overhanging offwidth that more likely is 5.10+. Unwilling to have only climbed one pitch for the day, we headed back up toward the crest of Wedge Mt. and put Telemarker to the task of leading us to the top of "The Heronhead". The route climbs up the west side and circles around to the north through a shallow chimney. The bouldery move onto the head of the heron does require an old school shoulder stand. The anchor from the top for the 100' rap is now fixed with a new sling and locker. For those of you who have a yearning for cragging with an alpine feel, you may want to give these relics a go. I'm glad I did. Gear Notes: Pro to 3.5" Approach Notes: Hike 2 miles up to the saddle lookout of Wedge Mt. and traverse to the north for quarter of mile until you spot the Heronhead to the west. Then take a series of steep gullies and ledges down and south 350' to the Chisel.

Good job Ade and Colin! How did the Beckey route look?

I think you guys have the first reported winter ascent of the Serpentine Arete.

Other than the creek crossing higher up, skis work fine. Also skis give you the option of ski touring instead if the north face isn't in condition. Easy Pass and the surrounding area make for fine turns. This is what we did when it was too warm on our first attempt.

Another approach, which will take about 5 hours is directly up Rat Creek Canyon. Locals years ago beat a small path up the left side. While not as unsavory as it looks, remnents of it are still there today complete with rusty old cans at camps spots. Below the base of the wall is a small pond where they built a picnic table out of logs before the Forest Service decided to try and take it apart. Probably prudent to bring a bivy sack. How many pitches is the climb?