Kyle_Flick

Rolf, I think you're correct because the second rap took us down the regular White Slabs summer route. What did Peter and Dan finish on?

We stopped when the ice ended and and found wrap slings around a tree. Looked to be an easy snow slope slog to the top above us. We never did any traversing left as you guys mentioned in your post; so I'm wondering if we'd topped out further to your right because there didn't appear to be any place for an unprotected 5.9+ chimney sickness above us. Loved that belay cave!

Nice Job guys. We did it today 1/28/07 and Kurt Haire thought the conditions were way better than when you did it a couple of weeks ago. We finished it in 5 pitches and then rapped down in four double rope raps. It's in good condition. We'll return your dropped quickdraw if you guys can find my dropped v-threader:-).

The old location along the Icicle was great. The previous owners decided to make that place their home. The new location at Prey's Fruit Barn along Highway 2 just on the outskirts of Leavenworth will be very convenient.

Great trip guys! My wife bought Home Fires Bakery and will reopen it at Prey's Fruit Barn just east of Leavenworth in February. Come check it out. No reason to go into the high back country hungry.

That's THE Thai Restaurant to you Mister. I figure if you want authentic Thai food go to the folks from Thailand. If you want lousy food go to Laos.

Quit dissing my neighborhood and eatery. While getting my usual order of curried fried yellow rice with tofu last week, I spoke with one of the owners of The Thai Restaurant in Wen., and she told me the owners of the new Thai restaurant in E. Wen. aren't even from Thailand.

Returned to the scene of the crime this past Sunday (12/27) with telemarker for some more views, powda and grins. Well worth repeating time and time again.

Au contraire on the Y's climbing wall--cumulative forearm burn from multiple laps on the cool self belaying system. Needs route setters and better hours. Yesterday was the first time I used it, all inclusive with one's Y membership fee.

Look forward to rejoining you gentlemen for more winter fun up there.

A follower of the original thinker for the free market system on a global scale, Adam Smith.

I've got a pair of the crampons with double frontpoints that I'll sell. I've kept them in pretty good shape. $50 plus shipping.

I guess through the mists of rain, flooding, work and otherwise down-time from climbing, I'll bite on this thread of fun times in '06 (which aren't over yet for skiing and ice climbing). Ok here goes my stroll down memory lane: Green Dragon, Index Silver Star via Varden Creek (teleskiing) Regular Route on the NW Face of Half Dome Beckey's variation of South Face of Prusik Torment-Forbidden Traverse North Face of Terror SW Face of Early Morning Spire combined with Dorado Needle on same day Goose Egg Mt. Iconoclast and Hyperspace Razorback Ridge with NW Buttress descent on Stuart Solo of West Ridge of Stuart in a day Attempts: Drury Falls, Thin Red Line, The Nose of El Cap (bailed from Dolt Tower). These three are also unfinished business for 2007.

I see your pain as you blithely skip along with shiney new walking sticks. Since you are now well equipped, maybe we can convince you to join the Leavenworth Nordic Power Walkers. Good conditioning for your booty walks.

Snow Creek Wall had hardly anyone on it Sat. Outer Space is getting less sun during the day, leaving Orbit, Mary Jane Dihedral and Iconoclast/Hyperspace in the sun most of the day (more south facing).

How about posting the lost and found poles on other websites such as Hiker NW, etc. vs. this small esoteric site that no hikers view? Oh I forgot, you didn't really want to return them. Just trying to salve your conscience a little?

Burdo's book (out of print I heard) has a good description complete with topo.

And your point is that you have too much time on your hands at work that you might as well bitch about our neighborhood. I'm going to stick up for our neighborhood and remind you and others that in addition to all the local climbers' personal climbing gyms (who would be more than happy to have others share in their handiwork)including the YMCA, we have something close very close to a climbing gym...Vantage.

John, Wonderful spin on a cluster. Sensitive, funny and yes, self-deprecating. That's my kind of successful alpine adventure. Keep your TRs coming.

See pictures in alpine and climbing galleries (8/26/06).

We stayed on the rock and avoided the water ice a couple of weekends ago. It wasn't all that time consuming. I'd recommend it.

Climb: Mount Terror-North Face Date of Climb: 8/18-20/2006 Trip Report: On Friday, Paul Kelly and I hiked in from Goodell Creek and passed below East McMillan Spire enroute to camp on Stetattle Ridge. The Ridge is similarly narrow and exposed as the Torment-Forbidden Traverse with a couple of chavel moves tossed in for grins. The next morning we dropped into McMillan Cirque and headed for the Barricade in what looked like a couple of hours work. Several hours later having crossed numerous gullies and moving as quickly as possible with the seracs of the McMillan Glacier periously perched above us, we finally rapped into the deep cleft before the Barricade. Crossing the Barricade wasn't too bad at about 5200'. We reached the base of the snow of the north face of Terror around 2:30 p.m. and spent another hour and half climbing steep snow and up and around crevasses in the hope of getting on the rock at 6200'. But we hit water ice and without more substantial crampons and ice tools, we felt it was foolhardy to pursue the higher approach onto the rock. We then dropped down several hundred feet and crossed the moat near the toe of the buttress around 4:00 pm. Good quality rock was the rule as we made our way up the exposed and mostly unprotectable fourth and low fifth class. We bivied about 500 feet below the summit at a notch with a large snow patch available to melt water. The next morning, after discovering a snafflehound had eaten the strap of my ski pole, we headed up the steep section before the west ridge. We encountered two pitches of 5.7--5.8. We topped out about 11:30 am and began descending the west ridge around noon. Rapping into the gully my partner knocked a rock loose onto his shin. After some first aid to stop the bleeding, we gingerly made our way down the loose gully. We made one more rap and were out into the Cresent Basin after 3:00 p.m. Crossing the Barrier was simple enough as was finding the Ridge down to Terror Creek, but the path was hard to find in places. Luckily in fading light we crossed the creek and located the old trail on the other side which took us back to our tennis shoes stowed at the road/trail turnoff for Terror Basin. Suffice it to say we were late getting home and to work the next day. But a finer tour of the Southern Pickets would be hard to find. I'll try and add pictures later. Gear Notes: Small alpine rack up to 3"

Good job! We passed each other on the last pitch enroute to completing the traverse. It seemed the east ledges and the the west ridge descents took about the same time. Glad you guys had a good time.

Goatboy, Thanks for the earlier PM. We slung a flake on the rock on the right side (looking down). Pete, Still can't get over you guys doing that traverse car to car in a day.

Don't answer that. I returned the following weekend (8/12-13)and bypassed the schrund on the north side of the east ridge of Torment, by a single 100' rappel. Don't need screws or a second tool. Avoided any steep snow thereafter by staying on the ridge crest as much as possible. Amazing exposure!