max

Gear: I brought the rack I usually climb with (I replaced half my draws with 2' runners) and fine, maybe wished I had a few more cams. But I wouldn't carry more next time. FYI

3 pages. I feel like a proud father!

http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070416/ap_on_re_us/virginia_tech_shooting AP radio just said the number was 22.

I think you're envelope was too short. With the numbers you've started with, if you do it right, you'll end up with about 996 watts. oops. edit: [font:Courier New][1L H2O][100C],,,[1000mL H2O][100C],,,100000cal,,,418400J -------------- = ------------------ = --------- = ------- = 996W ,,,,7min,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,7min,,,,,,,,,,,420sec,,,,,,420sec[/font]

Funny (yeah, ha ha...) I knew a guy who did similar. He was up there as a kid with his parents, "exploring" and traversed in from the left... got stuck, scared... two broken arms. He said he met his junior high sweetie in the hospital, thuough.

Was Super Glue invented to seal battle wounds in Vietnam?

telemark: French for "snob"

ooohhh, let me, let me! please, I wanna help!

FREERIDE!

By definition(s), you can't have a discussion that is both scientific and lay. That is, to have a dialogue that includes the average person, you must "dumb down" the science. Agreed, this is a subjective process with varying results..

Yeah Gary, quit being such a whiner. My tolerance for unlawful (or unsafe) behavior is slim. I do my part not to hurt others, they can do the same.

Here's what I think you should be doing (in addition to the "obscure bylaw" things you might purse): 1. Get in touch with the police department's representative for your area. I don't know that Seattle has such a thing, but in Bellingham, if you call the police and ask for the York neighborhood representative, you'll get a single person who's been active in that area for a while and knows what's going on there. 2. Get police reports for these incidences (as well as anything else tied to the offending bar.) It's all about documentation. 3. Get in touch with the liquor control board and make a formal complaint including the police reports from #2 above. Commentary: 1. Yes, moving in next to a bar, one should expect noise at 2 am. But, never should someone be expected to tolerate violence and people breaking the law simply because the source was there first or it's "that sort of neighborhood". 2. This isn't just an issue about Gary moving in next to a noisy/dangerous place. It's also about the rights of the landlord, the property owner, to see that businesses near his/her property be held accountable for their actions. Bad neighborhood equals low property values. 3. And yes, the bar is accountable. The liquor control board (that is, the State legislature) has mandated that liquor sales be allowed in places that can control the aftermath. If they can't control the crowds and associated violence, they should get their license yanked.

Anybody know of free software to convert from .mov to .mpg? (I've been searching for quite a while, everything costs)

Bryan: Sorry about the theft; that really sucks. I've been broken into three times (!), the first being the worst. I was in high school, had just got back from a trip to Bonanza Peak, and lost everything. The gear I lost represented alot of work and finagling. Fortunately, my parents insurance covered it and I ended up with a new setup, (not as complete and not at complete cost.) If you've got renter's insurance, it should cover it. Hope your season improves! dave

Not that this has anytning to do with desciding about the Compressor route, but I spent an afternoon on a fire with a "fire archeologist". Her job was to walk around and try to find and document items within the fire perimeter "of cultural and historic value." I think the criteria she was mandated to use was 50 years or older. FYI.

I'd just like to chime in here, not so much because I have something new and insightful to say, but more because I think there's a disproportionate volume from one point of view, and balancing that is good. 1. I think this Argentinean route (as well as the Otto route) is very different than our local exit 38 bolted routes (and, in general, WA routes): Different era, different historical value, different juristiction. To compare the two is... not interesting. 2. I can't comment on the Argentinean route, but I climbed the Otto route, and enjoyed it very much. I enjoyed thinking about Otto and the time in which he did his "dirty deed". It just opens up a whole book about how we used to look at nature, how we dealt with it's difficulties, and how our policies reflected these mindsets. I believe creating the Otto route under current standards would be silly (of course!), but also that removing it now would also be a shame. I'm not a big fan of high impact logging or mining, but I also very much enjoy looking at old logging equipment and visiting old mine sites. Should we "clean" these up too? 3. Finally, bolting talk, like religion talk, is best when kept at a conversational level. Ranting and preaching get real old.

Moab: if you're going to one destionation, and you're looking to primarily sport climb, skip moab, there's better. Red Rocks: Everybody raves about red rocks, but tI think there's better. Again, not a sport dominated area (although there are plenty of sport climbs and plenty of moderate trad climbs). To me, Red Rocks is the type of place to go if you're flying (cheap tickets) or you want to do the party thing also (FYI, Las Vegas blows, IMO). J Tree: Great option, but farther drive. Just make sure to do a little research before you go there and try and find some crags or groups of crags to hit. It can be overwhelming. Also, it could be the most crowded on your list this time of year. St George: never been there. Maple Canyon: never been there. Bishop: Good option. Closest drive and a good selection of sport climbs in Owens River Gorge, a few trad climbs too. Of course there's the bouldering. Alpine climbs... I doubt they'll really be in peak form, plus, I think focus is a good idea on a spring break trip. If you're into the drive, a choice I think is the best of all is Mt. Lemon near Tucson, AZ. Way great cragging, sport and trd, lots in the .9-.11 range, great granite, way less crowded than jtree.. but it is farther to drive.

Baseball: what ever. I think it's dumb, but not any dumber than bowling, golf, blah blah blah. Not worth the spitting and hissing some people make about it. Baseball nuts who get fanatical and rave about how cool baseball is: Idiots. Yeah, you may think it's cool, but don't tell me I don't like it becasue I "just don't understand it." Bullshit. You've ramped yourself, scratch that, you've been ramped up by the baseball leages to think there's something bigger than life involved in "the field, the lights, the players.... it's magic!"

I don't know if the trips you mentioned answer this question, but which AAI? Are you talking about American Alpine Institute out of Bellingham or Alpine Ascents International out of SEA? As far as rumors go... There's so much crap out there, I wouln't believe it unless you hear it straight from the source. I had this friend whose brother (or was it cousin), told me... you get my drift.

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/hozomeen for those of us too lazy to type. What an amazing looking mountain....

Yeah, I went up there once to climb w/ a friend and it seemed like a "roll-your-own" type of place. Like you said: good, well organized info is valueable and hard to come by.

Dude: 1. If you want people to go look at something on the internet, give them a link. It wasn't hard to find myself, but it's just s style thing ( http://www.alaskamountainforum.com/viewforum.php?f=37 ). 2. If your shit gets moved, banned, sprayed, ridiculed... get over it. It's the internet. you can't make people care (even if it's great beta) and if they ignore you, their loss. Also, it seems like there's a self policing thing going on: if you shits that cool and gets moved, and the community thinks it's worth getting back, they'll say something. 3. The dude's stoked to have a baby. Maybe you can stop being hardcore for a minute and think about that. Seems like you were asking why nobody was climbing. 4. Talk about clown behavior: why the spank is this posted twice on cc.com? Again, it's a style thing. 5. Whining in bad enough. Whining about getting your bad-ass thread moved is funny. Nothing personal, I'm sure you're a cool dude, but this is what came to mind when I read you post; you asked. EDIT You know what would be cool? Go through the thread that was moved, pick out the good info, and move it to a new thread in the original topic. You know, cut out the crap, sort it out, and organize it. Leave out any editorial comments. I bet people would appreciate that sort of thing. Then the good route info would be out there, the mods would appreciate it, and people would realize you're trying to make the site better, not filled with spray. cheers.

In the family Christmas drawing this year, my Secret Santa gave me a Peet's Boot Dryer. Intially, I thought it'd end up taking up lots of space in my garage and go unused. But after a few weeks, I realized this thing is great! I use this thing at least every other day and am considering getting one for my girlfriend (isn't it such a romantic gift?) I've found it will dry the following overnight: - my leather workboot, saturated after a day in the Bellingham rain. - bike shoes (know any bike commuters? What's better than warm dry shoes in the morning?) - running shoes - mountaineering boots (these took a couple of days, but are double layer leather and were on the dryer in the garage over that wicked cold snap we had earlier this year) - gloves, gloves, gloves. Work gloves, warm fuzzy gloves, and linered ice climbing type gloves. Peet's sells a special glove attatchemnt, but so far I've had great results w/o it. - ski boots. I always let these sit for two days just to make sure they're dry, since the shell doesn't breathe. I've also noticed no increased shrinkage (he he, he said shrinkage) when used on leather items. My work boot are a little tighter after using the dryer, but they shrink and stiffen just as when I let them completely dry at room temp. Right now I've got a line up of a pair of runners, my AT boot, a pair of gloves, and my girlfriends commuter shoes waiting. I wish I had another dryer! I'd highly recommend the Peet's Dryer to anyone who lives on the wet side and spends any amount of time in the elements. Having dry shoes (or gloves!) is not only a better way to start the day, but it also helps keep the funk down and extend the life of your shoes. The dryer itself is simple, quiet, draws very little power, and sells for a modest $40 MSRP (compare that to most ski shop boot dryers!). Peet's products are made in the ol' USA and have an unconditional 25 yeara warranty on it's products. You can find the dryer at sporting goods, hardware, and work apperel stores. Also, find more info (and interesting foot facts) at the Peet's website: http://www.peetshoedryer.com

Yeah, good for him for standing up for what he believes in, but I'd say he needs to pay for going back on his word. He committed to, and he benefitied from his agreement with the military, and now that he's faced with the cost (going against his principles), he backs out. Throw that deserter in jail! I hope they're able to come up with another case against him.

I didn't mean to over analyze the whole thing, and I didn't mean to imply God had anything to do with it, I was just saying what gets me going (what I think is at the essence of asking "what inspires you") isn't as uplifting as what some of the people posting before me have said.