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Everything posted by max
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"Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2007"
max replied to Zeta Male's topic in Climber's Board
Just an FYI for the Hood geeks: I was wasting time in Frd meyers a few days ago. A book about this disaster is out. I thumbed the pictures.... hood, snow... disaster scene.. helicopters... sad people, a note... and a bunch of words I didn't bother with. But like I said, if you're really into this kind of thing, you might need to spend some time reading this fine piece of literature. -
Dan: I climbed this route in... 1999? We didn't bring any rack other than the standard pickets and screws for a glacier. It was pretty early season, thought. We did climb through the top rock step belayed by climbing down into the moat, but no gear. It was a fun route up. Nothing more technical than, say, the north face of the north twin (i think this could have been early during a high snow year). We acsended into a whiteout, and by the time we reached the top of the Wilson glacier, we were in a complete whiteout. We sat for a while to see if things cleared, but the mountain is rounded enough there so we never could see anytthing but glacier. We descended back into the Wilson route, but that could have been tricky if we'd gone much farther. My advice: don't get to far past the top of the Wilson w/o a good plan for finding your way back into it. We descended in whiteout/rain. It was a little nervy being in the Wilson with stuff sluoghing left and right (literally). I rememer the Kutz being a major squish hazard in the bottom quarter of the Wilson. Light feet makes quick work. I'd also anticipate a fair amount of scrapnel if you do it in "warming" conditions. Overall: I'd do it.
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Back in the day I used to find a deep/steep roadcut with a good snow bank and throw myself off that and see if my sweetheart could arrest and pull me out... obviously look for one that has a moderate runout and a fair amount of snow along the side. I've been able to find one towards the upper lot at baker 2 for 2 and I'm sure there'd be something near snoqualmie pass. Just stay away from the freeway (or you'll look like a real tool...) Good idea for a spring brushup. I think there are a fair number of people out there who think they know what they're doing because they did this excersise ten years ago but never since.
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http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090422/ap_on_bi_ge/us_freddie_mac_official_dead "WASHINGTON – David Kellermann, the acting chief financial officer of money-losing mortgage giant Freddie Mac was found dead at his home Wednesday morning in what police said was an apparent suicide."
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[TR] Mt Shasta - Green Butte Ridge to upper Sargents Ridge 4/19/2009
max replied to Chriznitch's topic in California
Bitchin photos. That's just what I needed at this hell hole of a computer lab. Via la Vida! -
Hey 206'er: I think you're thinking of Medical Lake.
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My method: - spf 15+ (30+ on SUNNY snow) - tolerable smell (#1 criteria) - non-oily (I get the stuff that's wax based, and it doesnt make my skin feel like a ball of uncooked hamburger) - reapplied vigorously (think scrubbing face) to face, ears, chin, and entire nose area hourly. Otherwise, I go with what someone else has got or what's cheap.
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Question: are you talking about on the hair part or the sticky? If it's in the hair, try scraping, smoothing, and spreading it over a large area of the skin. Helps prevent balling anyways. If there's a whole mess of it, try laying a layer of grocery bag paper on the hair and gently ironing. The wax melts, the paper soaks it up. If you talking about in the adhesive and it's preventing your skins from sticking, I'd guess regluing. Yuck. Good luck. dave
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http://wenatchee.craigslist.org/vac/1006004776.html Honestly, I'm not sure you're going to find it. Sorta like asking for a cheap place in Tahoe. I guess there could be a board reader who's cut you a deal on their place. There's a place in Cashmere for ~$50 a night. Pretty cheap. I stayed there acouple of nights and didn't mind it, but that might not be saying much... http://www.cashmerevillageinn.com/ You might try and finagle a five night rate that "another hotel offered you" good luck
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I think this was the guy. Good guy, bad plan.
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I don't want to sound like a pessimist, but I think a new gym in bellingham would fail. I worked for a guy in '98 that built the gym on cormwall. It lasted for about a year (with little activity). It's now much more sucsesful as a revival gospel mission. I love the Y. Beyond a wall and weights (see comment below), it's got aerobic machines, sauna, racquetball, hoops, yoga and fitness programs, parking, and a kick-ass clientele. I'd get old of listening to climbers at a climbing gym real quick. I'd rather hear a drunk talk about needing to catch the bus than some dick climber spray about cc.com. A note about weights: seems like many climbing gyms think a bench, a universal machine, and some free weights constitute a good weight room. Wrong. Check the y: they've got over 30 different stations, and they're still adding things. Way better workout. As noted above, the Y and wwu walls don't stay up because they bring in the revenue, they stay up because they're subsidized as part of larger programs. Again, I don't want to sound like an ass, I just think this project wouldn't fly as you've presented it. If you're still interested in this project, I think it would be wise to analyze the previous walls in the ham that have failed (the one on cormwall, the leading edge, etc) and create a business model that dodges these. Maybe a private club in your enlarged garage w/ minimal facilities? Think outside the box! Good luck in future endeavors. Dave
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Try googling.... serpentine dihedral... I'm not sure about "serpentine dihedral" or "josephine crag", but i do know there's a pretty awesome looking climb up there, 5.9+? 2-3 pitches? but I con't remember where I got this info.. i also stole this photo from someone...
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just for shits...
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Fourth grade in... can't remeber her name but she was a BIATCH! THe principal was all worked up about it and there was much grumbling between the taqchers about how to break the news. I thikn most of the adults were way more worked up than the kids. It's interesting that for (relatively) how few shuttle flights there have been, there have also been two catostrophic failures. Going into space is dangerous! I can't imagine what it was like for the flight engineers to watch those events go down. Nova has an awesome program about the second shuttle breakup. 50 minutes with lots of amazing telescopic footage (not to be morbid) and analysis of the "NASA culture". http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/columbia/program.html
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I'm not encouraging that, in fact, I (honestly) care ZERO about what happens there (I don't even know where TROUTDALE is, let alone the Boroughs...) It just seems like bypassing the land manager is akin to vigialantiasm. It is public property. IF WE DON"T HAVE THE SYSTEM, WE'VE GOT NOTHING (I'm joking about that last bit!) Overall, I'd image most climbers would prefer to take care of this matter "in house"....
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It's interesting no one has mentioned the land manager/owner. Isn't this state park territory? Seems like it's their choice (and I'd ASSUME they wouldn't like people installing bolts w/o permission)
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As an ed person, I talk alot about this kind of thing (not trying to establish authority, just commiserating on drivel). 1. Take it as a lesson on how to do the stupid shit you're forced to do in order to get to where you want to go. It seems life is full of these "challenges". 2. Your lit class could be just a context to develop other skills: writing, critical, qualitative analysis (outside of a quantitative field like the sciences), sucking up, etc. 3. Someone mentioned schools of engineering above. They;re right: they don't focus on "liberal arts" stuff and the people that come out of those schools show it! NERDS. I'm hearing alot (in the ed circles) about employers looking for "whole" people. Just know there are many others out there suffering with you. Now get back to it!
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Not exactly the forum to get a decent answer on this one.
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http://www.bellinghamherald.com/255/story/745809.html http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/cfootball/395309_western09.html Seems like a pretty gutsy move to me. I'm a fan of football and all, but I like academics better.
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Somebody posted a wsdot link above, but here's some more for the lazy surfers: wsdot's "Storm Jan 2009" flikr page HWY 530: Hwy 20 I like the guardrail... White Pass "Yeah, your gun'a need to turn all those semis around and..." Hwy 542 three words: carbide tip chain
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Even better: http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/7814913.stm
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My suggestion: [img:left]http://myweb.students.wwu.edu/~brannod/eliminatingtreesgodscursetoearth.jpg[/img] Plants are the other species. It only a matter of time before they rise up and try to take their nucleatoids back.
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No shit. That drives me nuts. Next time I'm there and someone asks me if I'm member, I'm going to ask them to "guess how many times I've been asked that?" I guess they probably know it absurd, too. It's annoying in the same way "flair" from Office Space is annoying: All of the sudden, you realize you're being sold by some freshman at Western that is "really into trail running and the YMCA rockwall." Die punk!
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1. I have a Jaco album. I listen to it every now and then. 2. I like his playing, but 3. the music he chooses to play detracts from the expereince (Buckethead guy: yeah, thats amazing, but obnoxious to listen to)