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max

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Everything posted by max

  1. Moab: if you're going to one destionation, and you're looking to primarily sport climb, skip moab, there's better. Red Rocks: Everybody raves about red rocks, but tI think there's better. Again, not a sport dominated area (although there are plenty of sport climbs and plenty of moderate trad climbs). To me, Red Rocks is the type of place to go if you're flying (cheap tickets) or you want to do the party thing also (FYI, Las Vegas blows, IMO). J Tree: Great option, but farther drive. Just make sure to do a little research before you go there and try and find some crags or groups of crags to hit. It can be overwhelming. Also, it could be the most crowded on your list this time of year. St George: never been there. Maple Canyon: never been there. Bishop: Good option. Closest drive and a good selection of sport climbs in Owens River Gorge, a few trad climbs too. Of course there's the bouldering. Alpine climbs... I doubt they'll really be in peak form, plus, I think focus is a good idea on a spring break trip. If you're into the drive, a choice I think is the best of all is Mt. Lemon near Tucson, AZ. Way great cragging, sport and trd, lots in the .9-.11 range, great granite, way less crowded than jtree.. but it is farther to drive.
  2. Baseball: what ever. I think it's dumb, but not any dumber than bowling, golf, blah blah blah. Not worth the spitting and hissing some people make about it. Baseball nuts who get fanatical and rave about how cool baseball is: Idiots. Yeah, you may think it's cool, but don't tell me I don't like it becasue I "just don't understand it." Bullshit. You've ramped yourself, scratch that, you've been ramped up by the baseball leages to think there's something bigger than life involved in "the field, the lights, the players.... it's magic!"
  3. I don't know if the trips you mentioned answer this question, but which AAI? Are you talking about American Alpine Institute out of Bellingham or Alpine Ascents International out of SEA? As far as rumors go... There's so much crap out there, I wouln't believe it unless you hear it straight from the source. I had this friend whose brother (or was it cousin), told me... you get my drift.
  4. http://www.pbase.com/nolock/hozomeen for those of us too lazy to type. What an amazing looking mountain....
  5. Yeah, I went up there once to climb w/ a friend and it seemed like a "roll-your-own" type of place. Like you said: good, well organized info is valueable and hard to come by.
  6. Dude: 1. If you want people to go look at something on the internet, give them a link. It wasn't hard to find myself, but it's just s style thing ( http://www.alaskamountainforum.com/viewforum.php?f=37 ). 2. If your shit gets moved, banned, sprayed, ridiculed... get over it. It's the internet. you can't make people care (even if it's great beta) and if they ignore you, their loss. Also, it seems like there's a self policing thing going on: if you shits that cool and gets moved, and the community thinks it's worth getting back, they'll say something. 3. The dude's stoked to have a baby. Maybe you can stop being hardcore for a minute and think about that. Seems like you were asking why nobody was climbing. 4. Talk about clown behavior: why the spank is this posted twice on cc.com? Again, it's a style thing. 5. Whining in bad enough. Whining about getting your bad-ass thread moved is funny. Nothing personal, I'm sure you're a cool dude, but this is what came to mind when I read you post; you asked. EDIT You know what would be cool? Go through the thread that was moved, pick out the good info, and move it to a new thread in the original topic. You know, cut out the crap, sort it out, and organize it. Leave out any editorial comments. I bet people would appreciate that sort of thing. Then the good route info would be out there, the mods would appreciate it, and people would realize you're trying to make the site better, not filled with spray. cheers.
  7. In the family Christmas drawing this year, my Secret Santa gave me a Peet's Boot Dryer. Intially, I thought it'd end up taking up lots of space in my garage and go unused. But after a few weeks, I realized this thing is great! I use this thing at least every other day and am considering getting one for my girlfriend (isn't it such a romantic gift?) I've found it will dry the following overnight: - my leather workboot, saturated after a day in the Bellingham rain. - bike shoes (know any bike commuters? What's better than warm dry shoes in the morning?) - running shoes - mountaineering boots (these took a couple of days, but are double layer leather and were on the dryer in the garage over that wicked cold snap we had earlier this year) - gloves, gloves, gloves. Work gloves, warm fuzzy gloves, and linered ice climbing type gloves. Peet's sells a special glove attatchemnt, but so far I've had great results w/o it. - ski boots. I always let these sit for two days just to make sure they're dry, since the shell doesn't breathe. I've also noticed no increased shrinkage (he he, he said shrinkage) when used on leather items. My work boot are a little tighter after using the dryer, but they shrink and stiffen just as when I let them completely dry at room temp. Right now I've got a line up of a pair of runners, my AT boot, a pair of gloves, and my girlfriends commuter shoes waiting. I wish I had another dryer! I'd highly recommend the Peet's Dryer to anyone who lives on the wet side and spends any amount of time in the elements. Having dry shoes (or gloves!) is not only a better way to start the day, but it also helps keep the funk down and extend the life of your shoes. The dryer itself is simple, quiet, draws very little power, and sells for a modest $40 MSRP (compare that to most ski shop boot dryers!). Peet's products are made in the ol' USA and have an unconditional 25 yeara warranty on it's products. You can find the dryer at sporting goods, hardware, and work apperel stores. Also, find more info (and interesting foot facts) at the Peet's website: http://www.peetshoedryer.com
  8. max

    Thoreau it out!

    Yeah, good for him for standing up for what he believes in, but I'd say he needs to pay for going back on his word. He committed to, and he benefitied from his agreement with the military, and now that he's faced with the cost (going against his principles), he backs out. Throw that deserter in jail! I hope they're able to come up with another case against him.
  9. I didn't mean to over analyze the whole thing, and I didn't mean to imply God had anything to do with it, I was just saying what gets me going (what I think is at the essence of asking "what inspires you") isn't as uplifting as what some of the people posting before me have said.
  10. I began by looking up two words (dictionary.com), and I've clipped out the definitions I want to use: inspire: to influence or impel: Competition inspired her to greater efforts. motivate: to provide with a motive or motives; incite; impel. Now I can continue. I don't get inspired. I don't have these moments where I feel lifted up, up above the fog and see the divine.... crap. I just don't feel it. I get motivated. My buddy mentions a route and I sign on. I know he's got something good up his sleeve, I could care less what it is, butI know it will be good. I look at the Baker page and realized it's been two months since I went skiing. I'm not that stoked about the whole thing, but the last ten times I've been there, it's been a blast. So I go. I think about hiking up a hill this summer (for work), so I go ride Galbraith. It's like a job. I enjoy it (very much!), and I get better and better, but never feel guided by the hand of God to do what I do. But, I also very much enjoy what I end up doing.
  11. max

    magic

  12. This guy 'sorta looks like toms hanks in "Cast Away" About those pickets: - Long pickets = overkill. Other people have said this, but I thought I'd just second that opinion. - 2' pickets: From mid pitch stuff (you plan on using them), clip them to the harness, clipped at the second or third hole. For glacier stuff, girth hitch one end with a 3'-4' runner, clip the other end to the other end of the runner, and wear quiver style. - Respectfully, I don't think Don Serl knows what he's talking about here. Ok, I'm sure he knows what he's talking about, but I would say pickets are useful as running pro and I'm sure as hell not going to leave my ice tools as gear mid pitch.
  13. max

    ID MK3

    Wrong way. Cook in the back and pee out the front. It's a hell of a lot easier to crawl over pee-snow than a stove.
  14. max

    Cereal Preference

    Fav's: Rice, Corn, Wheat, or any mix of Chex or that other brand thats hexagonal (as opposed to the square chex's) w/ rice milk. Any plain granola with soy yogurt (I like real yogurt better, but so do the bacteria in my lower GI and those guy's can really wreak havoc on my day) Cheerios w/ strawberries. Of course, with rice milk. No one's mentioned ColonBlow? http://thetravisty.com/Saturday_Night_Live/mov/Colon_Blow.htm
  15. max

    Gustav's -Leavenworth

    Try the Post Office near Peshastin (the town, not the crags). Just don't go in wearing poly pro under shorts.
  16. I won't go so far as to say this is a bad idea, but i will say that the guy I buy my Nicks from (leather work boots) says that alcohol on the leather will help break it down enough to help it stretch and break into the foot's shape. So, it seems like this meathod COULD mess up the fit of a pair of rock shoes. But, I've never done this to my shoes so I can't say definatively that it will do this. Just ordered two bottles Mirazyme and delivered to B'ham REI: $4 per bottle. Gene: The method I've used and seems to work is TAKE A BATH!
  17. max

    Creepy?

    And you're right: you are entitled to your opinion and it's just as good as mine. But when you start a post calling the guy a creep and looking for support, you better expect somebody to call bullshit.
  18. max

    Creepy?

    Wanted: Experienced concrete finisher. Looking for experience w/ quick pours and slab work. Must be able to work ten hour days, have reliable transportation to rural worksites. Strong applicants only. Why can't they be looking for somebody with foundation experience? Why can't the job be near town? I'd rather work 5-8's. It seems like they're just llloking for a laborer, not a concrete worker! It all boils down to this: Money talks. He's got the cash, he calls the shots. It's a job. Ever worked a job you didn't like, but did because you got paid? Don't like it, don't do it. But you'll get no sympathy from me claiming he's strong arming people into doing something they don't want to do or something that's inappropriate.
  19. max

    Creepy?

    From Dictionary.com... Perversion: any of various means of obtaining sexual gratification that are generally regarded as being abnormal. I suppose you'd rather he chose something more "normal" like www.redhotknobslobbers.com or any of the many porn sites. This is even assuming there's something sexual about it at all! The guy seems to emphasize beauty and not sex. Don't like being treated like a sexual object? Get over yourself and quit assuming your one! I can't seem to find anything remotely unhealthy about what he's got going on here. Cindy: nothing personal; it just seemed your comments spoke for a larger population.
  20. Arch: I think I've read somewhere here you're a female. If this is the case, I htink you might not be aware of the difference in male and female digestion. I'm not that familiar with the female side, but I can tell you the frequency and urgency with which I shit is completely different than either my past or current girlfriends. Maybe it's just them, but they just don't get the urge as rapidly as I do. I can think of three times (off the top of my head!) that I've been forced by circumstances and my bowels to shit somewhere normally called "inappropriate." It happens. Story: Stopped at one of those "freeway oasis" places somewhere on I80 in Wyoming. This was while traveling with a twenty person crew. Mcd's, arbys, and a gas franchise. Nothing else for miles. I had to go. Gas station's got a nineteen person line. I can't wait that long. I go over to Md's: closed for cleaning. I could have said to the mcd's dude, "i HAVE to go. can you step out for a moment." But I thought, hey, there's still Arby's. By the time I was into Arby's, I knew I was committed. The walking/trotting between the three places, combined with my rising levels of adrenalin really had me conserned. Rounded the corner to the door... single locked stall. That did it. I was going to crap in the next thirty seconds. I could do it it my pants on not. I chose not. I got to behind the building (I was undoing my belt while going out the door) and it was an explosion. PooCano. (girls never use that term. Ever wondered why?) I was done in ten seconds, went without the wipe (I mean, at this point, I need to get eh hell out of there) and pulled up my pants, only to discover there was shit on the inside of my pants and underwear. Not lots, just spray. What else am I to do. Pull on the pants, put a smile on my face, and walk over to my foreman and tell him I shit myself and need to hold the entire convoy up so I can go change my shorts. Word spread like wildfire. People still remind me. So for you to complain that some dude had to take ashit in your stall and in the process loose his shoes (that's going to take some explaining).... I got no simpathy for you.
  21. max

    Coffee

    We figured out you could take the MRE's powdered instant coffee, sugar pack, and non-dairy creamer powder as a powder shot and chase it with a glug of H2O. Vile, but when used repeatedly, makes the day go by.
  22. Nice report. Hope to see this style more.
  23. max

    STP?

    I rode it at one and a quarter the speed of light and ended up gaining half a week. "one day." shhhs.
  24. that "06/6/2006" burn on my chest this moring still nerved me out...
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