David_Parker

I kill cougars with my buck Knife! http://espn.go.com/outdoors/conservation/s/c_fea_cougar_attack_BC.html http://www.news24.com/News24/World/Americas/0,1113,2-10-33_1239894,00.html [ 10-23-2002, 04:45 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by Beck: At last nights' pub club, some good options were raised about a ski party- A great suggestion was a spring highway 20 party down on the east side, sounds like the camping/parking/skiing are going to be right there, also the weather/daylight would be in our greater favor. I got that one totally covered. Cabin in Mazama, 3 double beds, big deck and lots of room for tents. Outhouse too. It helps if the snow is gone on the valley floor though.

quote: Originally posted by dbb: DP- get rid of that alpine bod while you can still have children!! I already have a kid and don't plan on any more so no worries!

Did BD change the buckle? It's got to be easy with cold fingers!

I'm friggin sick of my BD alpine bod harness. The buckle sucks and I want some thing with a belay loop, good for everything including ice climbing. What's good and best place to buy it?

I guess I'm so old school I have about 8 different ice axes I can choose from 'cause I don't sell them when I get new ones. I keep them for friends or for just being able to choose depending on the climb. I pretty much save my cobra's for water ice and I love 'em. I thought I was cheating when I first started using them. For Alpine I have my old waterice tools: x-15 brs straight shaft with alaska picks. That's if I need 2 tools. I also have older original x-15 (blue fiberglass) One is a mutant that's 57.5 cm which works great with a classic pick. I have mini grivel for second tool where I know I might not really need it much. I understand the affordable thing, but the older tools that work for alpine should be pretty darn cheap second hand. Saves wear and tear on the expensive ones too and you won't be bummed if you accidently drop one down the mountain side. Also, I don't like switching picks and leashes around. What I like for alpine isn't the same for water ice. Just grab 'em and go!

It's pretty simple guys. You should have two sets of tools. One for alpine with a straight or mildly bent shaft with no pinky thingy and another set for water ice. Do your own thing with the water ice techno leashless pinky knob bullshit if you want, but just remember...ice climbing is more about your feet than the tools!

I have been offered a pair of Atomic Beta TM-22's (190 cm ) for a reasonable price. Anyone skiied these and have feedback.

quote: Originally posted by sisu suomi: "Ice is nice and shall suffice"(B. Sumner) NOT!!!! Robert Frost

Why would I want to tell Scott-no-show where I climbed. If he wants to know, he should have showed up at the rope-up. Afterall, he WAS in the area! What's up with that....was it too smoky for him? Yahoo, my first PAGE TOP! How appropriate! [ 10-22-2002, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Excel makes the lightest poles. I know the reps, but can't really help you other to steer you towards the retailers...try http://mgear.com or just search excel ski poles. They might be spendy though but you'll probably get what you pay for; strong and light.

Broken picks = bad technique

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Hey Curt, is that milk or beer in that cup with a STRAW in it! Drinking stout with a straw can be hazardous to your health. Try it this way next time. [ 10-21-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

A great weekend of beer, food, and errrrr, oh yeah, climbing. Ended up doing Orbit (with Chris W) (Matt P and Tony on the other rope just behind us) for the second rope-up in a row! Got to lead the pitches I missed last year though so it was great to do the route again. Thanks Chris! And Thanks to Dr. Jay for dragging my lame ass around Castle rock on Saturday. Great to see all the new faces; around the "peak" of the party I counted 40 people around the fire! Next year I'll bring an extra chair. I never got to sit in my own! Hope everyone who wanted pancakes got some!

So anyone else interested? I imagine some of this stuff could prove useful for emergency situations. I want to learn because I could see myself doing something moderate like Mt. Cruiser solo.

The best reason to use a figure 8: because if you are near the top of Mr. Natural on GP apron and take a fall and it's clipped on you gear loop and it happens to be between your hip and the rock as you slide about 30 feet (rope stretch) you don't rip the shit out of yourself and actually finish the climb. Try that with an ATC or Gri-Gri!! [ 10-15-2002, 06:37 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

So I think I convinced Wayne to spend one of the days at rope-fest to teach roped solo climbing. Just putting out a "feeler" for interest. Of course He'll need to show up so we can take him up on it. Whatta ya think?

quote: Originally posted by kevin: Has anyone been on this route lately or checked it out from nearby? Is the ice "in"? I've heard the approach can be a bit tricky, anyone have any approach beta? thanks I am quickly learning that "in" is a very subjective term. Wayne and I went to do this route yesterday (10/13/02). We approached on Sunday and met two parties coming down who both said they looked at it and reported it was "definitely not in." We ended up going over to the N. Ridge and had an excellent view into the upper section. Needless to say we were kicking ourselves for listening to our fellow climbers than our own judgement. In our opinions this climb is definitely "in". Thin, but in. The conditions of the route matched exactly our EXPECTATIONS of what would be there and therefore our assessment of "in". Unfortunately we were swayed by repots of "not much ice and lots of powdery snow." True there is snow, but it is quite consolidated on the northern aspects as evidenced by the quite solid upper snow/ice face immediately above the termination of the couloir. There was ice, not thick, but it seemed there would be occaisional screw placements as well as rock pro. This is a mixed climb. I don't relly know who we talked to; perhaps they expected a blue streak as often seen in the Canadian Rockies. But I think they will wait a long time before that happens. In fact I think right now there is NOT too much snow and when the next big dump comes, then the route will be "out" for the rest of the season. So if you are realistic about what to expect and are comfortable on a thin (but in) alpine ice climb, I hope someone ticks it soon. You can pm me for further approach beta. At least we have that down for next time!

quote: Originally posted by Jens: Another magazine gripe of mine: The magazines and the whole industry have a huge love of climbers from Colorado or Utah. If you aren't from those places you ain't dirt. Don't believe me? if you are bored at work, whip out any issue and count pictures and articles affiliated with those climbers. Sure the pure waterfall ice and pure sport rock abilities of the avg climber from UT or Co is a bit higher but all and all we WA, OR, and British Columbia climbers are not quite cool enough or "hard" enough for them when in fact we climb much more like our European Uber-brethren than those UT or Co people. I like to watch the Colorado and Utah climbers navigate slide alder, devil's club, gnarly stream crossings and all the other neat stuff that is special to us Cascade Climbers. Maybe that's what keeps them in Colorado and Utah!

I did the "one day to climb" thing last fall. Dark Shadows (5.7) was killer. Route is straight up, second pitch fairly sustained but all there, and you can easily rap the route. We were told to expect crowds and we had it all to ourselves! Nice hike in/out too!

[ 10-12-2002, 11:40 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

There's a BIG difference between covering miles and vertical feet. While climbing the nose in 2:48 is mind boggling, it's still 3,000 feet up without much approach and straight forward descent. Approaching 15 miles, climbing 5,000+, descending/hiking out same is big enough.(Mt. Goode.) Moving over extremely rugged terrain, bush wacking, and covering MANY miles means you just won't do it in a day. Thus my premise there are LOTS of routes not doable in a day. Why bother listing them all. Those of us who have been there know getting it done in 24 hours or even 48 is NOT what it's all about. [ 10-12-2002, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by Mike McNeill: Paco, I've never been to Holderness School Corner. Where about is it? I had to stand in the corner once at Holderness. I went to school there and wasn't always behaving. It's funny, because I found THIS web site back in 2000 while looking for an ice climbing partner for North Conway in December. I was cruising the internet for climbers back east. Ironically, I DID hook up with a guy from Boston who frequented this site. We climbed all the good stuff in two days at Frankenstein cliffs. I also hooked up with Al Hospers from New Hampshire while in Canada. He runs the "White Mountain Report". You can get his weekly email newsletter at: http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_subscribe.html If you email Al, you will find a veritable gold mine of where to climb and find a bunch of partners. Being from Maine, I can't wait to visit my parents again. I always try to find time to get over to the White Mountains. Oh, and I still have a date with Tuckerman's on my Tele Skis someday! And for any west coast climbers who think that Mt. Washington is just a bump on the map, think again. I'd be willing to bet it's killed more climbers than Mt. Rainier. What a great time of year to be in New Hampshire or the Gunks! Mike, send me an email and I'll give you the name of the guy from Boston I climbed with. You guys are about the same age. [ 10-12-2002, 10:16 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I wonder if they'll have sheets of blotter to take us back in time!

I agree. I suggest finding a new route in the alpine, riding our bikes there and climbing it and naming it the Goran Kropp memorial or something like that. Sort of like Eve Dearborn route on Index.