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I'ved looked at it - honestly it's a bit big for climbing (palm+ size), and the anemometer isn't that useful for climbing apps (I have a seperate, more accurate one). I went with the Avocet Vertech. $115(+ship) from Cascade Toboggan. http://cascadetoboggan.com

Most spools of rope you can buy are more towards the gym side of things and are almost static, so he would not want to climb on one of these. Maybe since he is such a big stud, the rope company made a few special ropes for him You can buy longer ropes from most manufacturers (they make them in LONG lengths and chop) For example Mammut http://www.uhartrescue.com/climbropemammut.html

And bolts! They'd been here for 26 years .... http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/mechadv/

That's what they are. TR anchors - so you needn't wade through soiled prophylactics, beer bottles, and XXL used underwear to find a tree. Seriously lame to chop TR anchors. As much as I loathe the butt - I'll lend a hand.

Probably all dependent on conditions. I've never done the traverse, but did check it out once from just above Whatcom Pass at a time when it would clearly have required walking below huge blocks of ice that were sitting on wet slabs. Reminded me a lot of traversing the pocket glacier approaching NE Buttress of Slesse. I also just checked Nelson Vol I, where he says "danger from falling and sliding ice." Like so many other places, probably pretty risky at some times and pretty safe at other times. Condition dependant is an understatement! When I was there in August of '99 the blocks of snow/ice were beetle (new VW, not old) sized, and coming through about every 10 minutes. Needless to say, we didn't go for the traverse....

Heat a razor blade on the stove (hold it in a hemostat). Cuts through the taped cord quick and easy (even Spectra!)

Jet Ranger be old tech. You want a 609 (when/if they come on the market) http://www.bellagusta.com/html/theAircraft/ba_609/

...just most of Canada and Russia and oh, most places in the world outside the USA, populated parts of Asia and Europe It's called a Dehavilland Beaver dru. The Canadian trailhead.

What's your definition of 24 hours? There aren't that many places in the world that aren't a 24 hour run from the trailhead!

Obviously "the market" demands it!

Nah... The ski camps will take care of that!

I usually pull up in a Mercedes (including the wind rivers). As long as I stay off the shoulders, I'm fine....

Coinsidering I saw 6 people thurs. morning - how many were up on Sat?

The American Alpien Club's in the same building - stop by the library and plan a trip of your dreams.....

Thanks much! I've seen the road to Morrison - but when I was there in May, Cold Springs was under 2+' of snow. Should be able to make it just fine in the antiSUV.

How drivable is the Cold Springs road? Better/Worse than Cloud Cap? i.e do you need high clearance? Or would an adventurous 2wd make it?

What? He told you he couldn't and refunded your money. WTF else was he supposed to do? Give you a free bag? 1.5weeks = 8 days. 5.5 is pretty damn close - and great for most businesses. Even at 1.5 weeks your still cutting it way close. Maybe you should have ordered it alittle earlier? Believe me - they're are ALOT of companies that sell things far more expensive (like 3 orders of magnitude) that treat their customers even worse. Get over it.

Like erik said - get ready to stand in line. And WTF is up with getting up at 4am for a 5 minute approach?

He had some issues - I'm not disagreeing. I think depending on anything, ANYTHING!, that is "crucial" gear to a big climb, to arrive 5 days before departure, without a backup, is beyond retarded.

You definitely "b" a rash. Here's a thought for everyone harshing on nunatak - you ever think that maybe he did ask the seamstress, and she just didn't fess up? Sort of like the normal work "Are you going to have this done on time?" "h Huh" "you sure your going to have this done on time" "uh Huh" crap that goes on all the time.......

http://www.climbsworegon.com/ http://www.climbsworegon.com/corrections1.htm

Roads open. Snows nice. Stay away from the shoulders!

I wonder why?

Excellent job! I eagerly await my copy!

I'm not disagreeing wiht that, necessarily, but an individual member of MEC has a much easier chance of making their voice heard.