cj001f

Poster: Rainier_Wolfscastle Subject: Re: Black diamond x-15 Good: Sturdy, accepts all current BD picks Bad: Really heavy tool. They may fry your shoulders/arms on long/steep terrain. That only applies to the older X-15's (black rubber coated shaft) The newer X-15's are almost identical to the current Shrikes - and about as light. If your looking to buy a tool in the next month or so, they're definitely worth the money.

I've used a pair of X-Gaiters for the past couple years (well I did until I got fed up with them - now they moulder in a corner)They don't work that well - and the toe comes up all the time. It's a pain to tighten the rubber X line enough around the base to keep snow from getting pushed up when your plunging, and the X itself is in a fragile place for the rubber - mine are almost broken from walking in ski resort parking lots. Avoid the X Gaiters like the plague.

I wouldn't recommend leather boots for the volcanoes. Your feet will be soaked. Save the leather's for alpine rock routes or mixed stuff. I would recommend lowa civetta's because of their low profile weight and flex. Use VB socks and your boots will be dry as a bone. Leather's work just fine on the Volcanos - much better than plastics(although leather boots seam to be the choice of a distinct minority). Your feet will be comfortable, your shins intact, and as long as you waterproof the boots every couple of outings, dry. I'd go with the Nepals over the ICE's.

AS a climbing back, it's lame yes. For traveling or canoeing it'd be cool though.

Huh? How is desert climbing more "high-adventure" than some alpine grade III in the Cascades or Sierras or wherever? You could argue desert climbing is more high adventure because of the very low integrity of the rock, which makes the routes much more "interesting" than the Sierran Granite. Of course by this argument any chosspile that can support multiple pitches is worthwhile......

I don't think the appeal is limited solely to "alpinists" or dirtbags - in my opinion it's one of the better climbing mags around period (but then there's not much competition). Judging by newstand, shop sales (I know of at least one shop that's sold out already) and my subscription number(~5000), they may be well on their way to where they want to be.

Limmer's are nice boots, but they take awhile (the waiting list was a year or more). For plastics you might try buying a wide boot, then getting a thermofit ski liner added. Carl

I use a little barge cement (normally used to adhere soles to boots) Works better than seam grip(though it's similar) - haven't tried Skin glue. Carl

Greg - Doesn't work for me, but I have a)Feet that sweat like stink b)Boots that aren't that breathable (a pair of the Vasque LaSportiva K2/K3 clones Worth trying

"So, I would think that if your liner did ITS job and pulled the moisture out to the outside of the sock, the Smartwool (or other) would do ITS job and wick said moisture to the outside of it. " This is true. - I've found that boots (unlike running/approach shoes) don't breath very well - so the liner saturates, then the socks, then my feet. Hey, it's what works for me.

"Also a liner should be hydrophilic inside & phobic outside thus transferring and transporting moisture from the foot to the outer sock hence keeping the foot nice and dry. with only a single sock like Smartwool, wouldnt your foot be wetter? " All things being equal, I think you would be correct. I find the increased insulation of the liner & outer sock causes my feet to sweat more - enough so that the sock system can't transmit the sweat away, and some small rub invariably causes a blister. The smart wools do pack out after a couple days - the Patagucci socks stay better lofted I've found.

Grazie, trask. Meteorologically then, convection is air motion upwards, and advection is motion sideways?

I've had more trouble with liners & socks than just socks alone - liners always seem to make the other sock slip around, bunch up, and cause a blister (even with socks too small). Smartwools are nice socks - as are the Patagonia Capilenes. I trend towards Medium Weight/Light Weight in socks, the really warm socks always cause my feet to sweat horribly(above 0F), which really brings out the blisters .

The warmer bivi bag thing is cause it blocks heat loss from advection. ?Dru, praytell what is advection? Cooling by commercials? Condensation amount veries alot w/temperature. I found I was relatively condensation free w/ the bivy sac to nightime lows of -5F, but below that, even with keeping the bag away from face, etc. I built up a massive amount of precipitation. It's not just the bottom of the MHConduit's that don't breath - it's the top too. Has to be one of the biggest ripoffs around.

I tried that last winter. It wasn't a success - I ended up with all kinds of water vapor condensing(and then freezing) in the insulation of my bag because the bivy sac wasn't breathable enough. I was using the MH Conduit bivy though, and it blows AnnaNicole style. I've heard that super breathable bags are the way to go (OR makes a sac in Dryloft that comes heavily recommended). If your looking to add some range to your bag - try sleeping in dry Exp. Weight long underwear, with a hefty hat. Carl

That's just because Ullman was behind the times - Heckmair & Vorg used 12 points on the 1st assent of the Eiger NF. His autobio has a funny commment about all the peope using 12 pointers nowadays walking on glaciers when they're only useful for climbing ice.

"And third, I don't beleive that leashless climbing should or will be limited to steep mixed routes. Albeit I have'nt done much leashless climbing(on lead that is) yet, but it seems to me that going leashless on standard waterfall ice is not only more fun, but has alot the same benefits as it does on steep rock." What technical benefit is to be gained by going leashless on any route that's full ice, and Grade 4-5 or below, besides making it easier to take your hands out to place screws?

If your looking for a winter only shell (i.e. you can get by with only water resistant) the Patagonia Essenshell rocks. And the Anorak is $39 at the outlet this week (give 'em a call!). The SD Peak Bagger is great if your looking for something more waterproof (but it's not Gore-tex level waterproof)

quote: Originally posted by eternalX: Another case for the privitazation of roads. Cheers. Now that would be an amusing social experiment. I'm not sure that any community in America would be willing to pay the full cost of roads & transport, but the West Coast in particular would have a fit (What do you mean my UPS rates are going to double!)

quote: Originally posted by Rainier Wolfscastle: I think you can just buy the whippet shaft and a seperate lower section from BD. No need to buy another set of poles. Exp. Probe Pol spare shaft (no baskets) $28.95 - you could probably use the cheaper Traverse pole bottom, since probe poles suck. If there's anyone whose actually tried to arrest with a Whippet - Can you put enough muscle down with one arm to arrest with a whippet?

quote: Originally posted by iain: Oregonians are way too smart for that. We just allow everyone to drive around Portland in studded tires?

quote: Originally posted by mattp: I know that some rope manufacturers suggest retiring ropes, even if they have been stored in the closet, after some rediculously short period of time like three years. So I guess they think exposure to oxygen degrades a rope but I can tell you I and most people I know do not retire an unused rope simply for "old age" until it is at least ten years old. Take a look at these test for rope aging questions: http://filebox.vt.edu/users/raedward/cisdetrop.html Strength loss is well correlatable to Rope use, not age.

quote: Originally posted by Beck: "i've been getting glacier glasses from any personal optometrist for the last twenty years in Julbo frames I bring in, and they have NO PROBLEM getting you high altitude, dual gradient, mirror finish polarized glass lenses for around 125 ducats. I've not been so lucky - and tried several optometrists. 93% ref lenses aren't particularly standard in most parts of the world. Opticus was easy to find and the glasses didn't take a trip back to the optometrist to get recoated because they weren't dark enough. [ 11-21-2002, 08:29 AM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by Beck: hey, i've done the math, at opticus you don't get double gradient, you don't get glass, you don't get polarizers. REI sells RX glacier glass frames for $19.95 and bringing frames into RX, you get julbos, from YOUR eyedoctor. under 200 ducats. Most Optometrists can't get the lenses as dark as Glacier Glasses. Rx Oakleys run as much as Glacier Glasses.

quote: Originally posted by mtnrgr: I have a pair of Jublo's I bought from opticus. I love them. Cost me about $300 though. Second the Opticus recommendation. No they're not cheap - but depending on what Julbos you have you may already have the frames.