cj001f

quote: Originally posted by STORER: Hey Carl, We're going to hike in from Marcy dam, assend the back side of Marcy, then desend the front side. We can't wait! I assended Alconquin last December and got my a$$ kicked by 60+ mph winds and blowing snow. It looked like a scene from Everest except we were at slightly lower elevation Algonquin was strange above tree line; we would be climbing on hard ice then 20 feet later we would be in thigh deep powder. What have you climbed in the Adirondacks? What's Avalanche pass like in the winter? Steve Sounds nice - most of my daks winter has been ice climbing. Couple of years ago I climbed Algonquin Tahnksgiving weekend though your right it's a strange experience and the wind is brutal. Avalanche Pass is very cool in the winter - and it's a lot easier to navigate when the lake's frozen. Climb I was always looking forward to was NF Gothics (& Pharoah Mt) but I was never up there when it was in condition. 1000' of Ice would be nice. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Check out the ole Can Rockies books as a comparison. I dont mean the select one either. You not talking about the AAC/ACC guides are you? Because there ain't a comparison.....

quote: Originally posted by STORER: Nice view! When I climbed Mt. Washington we were lucky to see 20 feet. I'm going to climb Mt. Marcy this December. We're hoping for a lot of snow. Steve With the way the wind blows up there I doubt you'll see much snow above treeline. But it should be alot of fun! Are you planning to head in from Marcy Dam, Johns Brook, or Panther Gorge? Carl [ 10-20-2002, 10:52 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

Not to long until Tucks is in fine condition.....

quote: Originally posted by bellemontagne: 1) The performance of different shell materials like Gore Dryloft, Mountain Hardware's Conduit SL, and MEC's F.O.H20 laminate shell. My experience with MH's Conduit SL has been nothing short of horrible. It's neither waterproof, nor breathable - which would be alright if they dropped the price on their stuff. Avoid it like the clap. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Pencil Pusher: I would think people in the medical profession's pay is directly related to their education and/or training. Exponentially so.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I bet it cause they havent shipped yet. ANAM 2002 has been outfor months but AAJ 2002 not yet. I bet it is late this year cause it the first year with John Harlin III as editor after the AAJ Putsch where Beckwith was dumped in a bloody coup. Publication date for the journal is September 2002 on Amazon.com - ships in 1-2 days. Publication date on Bn.com is August 2002 - ships in 3-4 days. Publication date on buy.com is 9/1/2002 - ships in 24-48 hours.

quote: Originally posted by iammo: I assume you will receive your journal (not Accidents) before it is in stores. The AAC is a business like any other and they can't sit on one finished book just because the other is not ready. I'm willing to give them a break, they're a small outfit, and nice folks. However, Amazon.com has listed the '02 journal as in stock & shipping in 1-2 days for several weeks now. Carl

quote: Originally posted by iammo: Is that the only reason that you joined the AAC, to get the journals? The biggest climber advocacy group in the nation doesn't need your money then, with an attitude like that. I'd be careful about calling the AAC the "biggest climber advocacy group" in the nation - the access fund (no longer part of the AAC) does much more for climbing than the AAC's watered down statements and caving, especially at a local level. I agree with Ryland that members should receive the journal before, or close to the time stores do - it is after all, supposed to be a journal for the members of activities in the mountaineering world. As you can tell - I haven't received mine. [ 10-16-2002, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

It's being published by The Overlook Press http://www.overlookpress.com/ - who seem to have bought the English rights to Daumal as they are also re-releasing "After a Night of Serious Drinking". Not that their website shows any of this..... Carl [ 10-16-2002, 12:55 AM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

Climbers Guide to the High Sierra Lists 3 different routes in the valley (up to 1,400 ft) all done after the dam - I've heard Galen Rowell's name attached to one or another of them, but I can't remember where I saw that. I was just there on Sunday - I'm not really sure how much the dam has impaired climbing (and if you could boat it probably wouldn't at all) - it'd take off at most a pitch or so, if you take into account the height of the talus. That said, I'm more than a little sick of San Francisco's (and the rest of the fucking Bay Area) hypocritical bullshit with regards to this. Were all for inconveniencing everyone else in the world regards to the environment, but when it comes to us, no way we'll even look at doing anything differently. They should at least consider alternatives.

I'll give a second to the citrus cooler, like all of the Cytomax flavors it's a little odd - but I like it. There's also an Orange flavor that's alright, but I preferred the Tropical Punch. Carl

quote: Originally posted by Off White: Anybody remember Moutain Gazette? It was more arty, a big newsprint magazine. If I ever get those bookshelves done I'll have to exhume the old collection from it's dusty carboard cartons. Mountain Gazette was/is a most excellent publication. It's been reborn www.mountaingazette.com and's working it's way up to the level it was in the past. If your wishing of the old days, this past summer a collection of the best of mountain gazette cameout too. As for Colorado - who needs it. [ 10-14-2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by Crackbolter: Climbing Magazine sues Rock and Ice: http://www.outdoorbiz.com/outdoorretailer/search/article_display.jsp?vnu_content_id =1516090 Climbing Magazine Publisher Sues Competitor Rock & Ice "They've stolen our claim to highest ad to content ratio" "Primedia (media behemoth) is outraged at the calculated attack launched by Rock & Ice to usurp Climbing magazines prime position in the drivel market", says Montgomery Wolfe senior Outdoorsy magazine marketdroid at Primedia. "We've carefully cowtowed to our advertisers for years - even special editorials! And this is how the repay us? We'll fight them the only way we know how - via lawyers! Hell with this making a better magazine crap, then we might have to give something to the community." Duane Raliegh, formerly of Climbing magazine, fires back. "For years now, neither Climbing nor Rock & Ice, have been giving the customer what they want - more ad pages, more often. Sure we had that big burst in the late 90's. But the dotcoms have folded, and we're not as chic as we were. The new Rock & Ice will fight this trend - new fashion spreads on bouldering clothes, streaming video of Dave Graham 24*7 on our website, and of course, more ads. Plus we'll give you 3 more issues a year (of course we'll have the same number of articles & pictures, just stretch them a little thinner)"

quote: Originally posted by Jim: The primary limitation of digital cameras, if you're looking for good photos, is the lens. The optics are just not up to those of film cameras, until recently. Nikon has recently introduced a DX series that uses Nikon 35mm lenses!! Big improvement, but pricey. If you're just looking for point-and-shoot quality though the there's so me good suggestions above. yes and no - most of the current DC optics are as good as conventional P/S camera optics - i.e. molded with maybe some touch up grinding, which is usually up to what most people(unfortunately) expect from a camera - however, if you want to take good pictures, good quality lens are the only way to go. What makes a much bigger difference for DC buyers than the glass is the software setup the camera uses - it can make a big difference in the the quality of image saved, and time between shots. Several of the new Kodaks will allow for user download of software upgrades (a big plus since for alot of cameras only the CCD & the softare change between models) Worth a thought. Carl

quote: Originally posted by jordop: Houellebecq, "Elementary particles". Had to go to the Ham to get it when it first came out. I can't say that I'm a big fan of Houellebecq ... he's a bit too French for me. Frederic Tuten (Tintin in the New World) ia about as far as I can tread down that path. Dru - Ambrose Bierce is excellent! and all of Trevanian's books are worthwhile as light reading(Eiger Sanction probably would appeal most here). Dead Souls (Gogol) is excellent - but Gogol was a better short story writer (the Overcoat is excellent), Isaac Babel also excelled at the Russian short story, an excellent but little known short story writer is Vasily Shukshin (hard to find an affordable edition around aside from Amazon).

quote: Originally posted by erik: i know this topic sux....but so do the books i am attempting to read please share.... "A night of serious drinking" - Rene Daumal (also wrote Mont Analogue - an excellent climbing/exploration novel) The Octopus - Frank Norris Cannery Row - John Steinbeck (or any other Steinbeck) The Air-Conditioned Nightmare- Henry Miller One of my favorite books of all time is The Master & Margarita - Mikhail Bulgakov all around excellent, though works better to read it around easter Kerouac's good too, as is Kundera, or Ivan Pelevin Carl

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: Off trail while wearing ungainly boots, they "really serve a purpose". Off trail I find them most useless - at least in the bushwacking mess that's the PNW..... In my experience they're useful 1) With Snowshoes 2) When your carrying a big freaking pack (80+ pounds) 3) On really shitty trails in places like the Adirondacks where your climbing down 10ft mudcoated rock sections (most of the trails in the Adirondacks are like this) Other than these times I've found them to be a wonderful way for REI to increase sales. Titanium trekking poles? I have an old pair of collapsible ski poles I use occaisonally for this purpose. Has any one else noticed a widening of trails due to the trekking pole trend? Carl [ 09-18-2002, 11:12 PM: Message edited by: cj001f ]

quote: Originally posted by klenke: I was going to climb Gannett this year from Elkhart trailhead in mid-June but there was too much snow still. I wouldn't be so sure - I was there mid-July (not this year - a couple back), and the snow about as bad as could be - about knee/mid thigh when you sank through on just about every step (and it didn't get cold enough to freeze at night) Another 2 weeks and it should have been fine though. Others advice is excellent - no need for a guide, and pack light, or just combine it into a week backpack/fishing trip - makes for a very pleasant excursion. It's just a snowslog. For an unexpected cultural experience, stop by the Old Yellowstone Garage in Dubois (is it still run by the short gay guy and his butch wife?) Carl

Essenshell != Major Cash Flow ! Call the Outlet in Dillon - the Jacket & Pullover (which is almost the same, and climbs better) have been on special often (as low as $59 or so) Carl

quote: Originally posted by wdietsch: considering a soft shell (finally) jacket, wondering what everyone out there thinks .. what do you like and why? Go with the Classic - Cloudveil Serendipity. Nice cut, durable - and on sale at their website right now!

quote: Originally posted by sketchfest: Seems a little silly that they would post their retailers plan like that. Now everybody can see how bad their getting jacked per issue. You looked at the margin on that (insert whatever gear/clothing you just bought) lately?

quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: I brought a tarp and a tent for a two month paddling trip down the coast of BC. Never once set up the tent. I've used tarps much in the BWCA - they work excellent for water bound trips, when your spending much time at a low elevation amongst trees. I've yet to find a tarp particularly versatile for a mountaineering trip - they're a pain to set up above treeline (yes you can set them up well - but I don't spend 30 minutes making camp), and they dont' handle adverse weather as well.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: [QBWaves and climbs? No way. The vast majority of ridable waves go unridden; Most climbable days on ice and rock routes pass without climbers. Get into the backcountry. Drive a little further. Travel abroad.[/QB] The vast majority of ridable waves may indeed go unridden - but when you paddle out at 3am and there are already people in the water.........

"How many of you have ended up with giardia or other protista-related maladies?" I've never come down with Giardia - I have had Schigella from the woods however. And that was nasty, very nasty. It was not passed on from the water though - I have a trip companion to thank Because of that "experience" I spend much more time washing dishes in camp than worrying about the water (at least deep in the woods) Carl