Smoker

quote: Originally posted by mattp: David, I heard rumor about this: was it you who pushed Mr S. off the edge? No, no, no, I am still around, reports of my demise are exaggerated. I may have crossed the line once or twice, but haven't fallen off the edge yet. Think I'll "head" over to my ledge right now and burn one for the "hut" S

quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: quote: Didn't someone mention that The Fisher Chimneys route has an arrow painted to mark the correct gully? You are correct. As of mid August there was an arrow pointing up the correct gully. Pretty disgusting. What happened to adventure? So, the gully is marked at the top and bottom then. There was too much snow to see the lower arrow when I went through in mid-July but the arrow below Winnie's Slide marking the top of the Chimneys was disgustingly clear. Folks that must spraypaint to find their way need help. I'm not sure what kind of help though.

I love Mt Si! It's never too early to wear plastic boots on Si.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: robertm, you or anyone can donate cash to a reliable source at ProMountainSports Thanks for the heads up. I have enjoyed many fine days of climbing at Darrington. I am happy to drop a few bones into the kitty

Right on Matt! Way to swoop on that Heres to hoping the only friction you get in the future is on your shoe rubber

Alex has it right. Park at the hairpin. Its a 45min approach. You wont want to fall on most of the hardware on the 5th or 7th pitch. We brought a fifi, just cruised right thru. This late in the year speed will be an issue. We did the line 3 wks ago and went out of the sun on the 5th pitch. We descended the Blue lakes trail.

Sounds sweet! Nice klimbing Mitch

quote: Originally posted by flick: There are some nice slab climbs on Givler's Dome. You can see this dome from the road. Try those. I'll second the above. And add Nubbin Grubbin at Carino to the list of worthy lines. FWIW, I think that Icicle "friction" is closer to small edges. Darrington and Static point have much better "pure friction". Someone mention the "Kone"? Yeah baby thats some fun!

Nice Juan, You make it sound, so FUN!

What day did you climb? I saw folks on the N spire last saturday

Did I hear that Burdo has a new addition coming out? I am thinking that I heard that it would cover some recent development. I did some swell climbing up there last Sat.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Why dont you hike up Toketie Creek this weekend [/QB]

Here's some beta: Dont attempt the route in mid October unless you want to deal with snow on everything! If you wait for the sun to warm your butt (like I did), in October, you'll turn around mid route or biv on the route. Solid rock, by Cascades standards it's excellent! Did I mention that it is cold in October on the E. Ridge? Damn Cold! Oh yeah, if you go in mid October, you'll have the whole damn freezing mountain to yourself! Have fun, and, I recomend picking some other month besides the freezing month of October to climb the East Ridge.

When I did it a few yrs back, the NE ridge was loaded with rap anchors. We had no problems with a 50m rope except the one snag and I recall being hypothermic as I climbed back up to free it. Took us 3 hrs to climb the ridge in 50ft of visibilty, 4.5hrs to descend in the rain. It was tough for us to bag in 2 days but we did. Have fun hope you get better views than I had S

Hey Lucky, I have clipped a few of your hangers. Thanks, good lines.

[ 08-05-2002, 09:33 PM: Message edited by: Smoker ]

Sweet! Great photos Matt It looks like the soup was never far off. Great climbing

Faint paint my ass... 2 big arrows point'n the way for all that cann't navigate well or remember where they've come from LAME'O Next time I come through I'm bringing Laquer Thinner to burn in the stove

Sounds Excellent! Way to push for the tent Matt. That beats the hell out of a cold nite out. Brrrrrr. I want photos!!!

Well, I suppose I'll weigh in, for obvious reason, The standard bic works fine up to 14,400' keep one in with the stove, and if you really want it to work at elevation, keep one close to your body so it stays warm and keeps the butane from getting sluggish. It'll spark up everytime.

quote: Originally posted by MF206er: We are not responsible for his accomplishments, he is responsible for our accomplishments. Sho got that right!

I'm gunning for Chief Wanker

quote: Originally posted by genepires: "bad dogs" and there are "bad climbers". I used to be such a bad climber, folks would pack up and move rather than stick around and risk having to perform 1st aid

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: My attitude is: Break stupid laws, fight the larry the tool's of the world. Climb when, where and how you want to as long as you leave the outdoors as close as you can to how you found them. But DON'T cheat or steal from fellow climbers and give those who do no quarter! Right on TG!!!

Everyone has their strong suits and their weaknesses. If we are lucky, our choices in partners will add strengths to our weakness. My partner is a gifted navigator. I have been privileged to learn from him. I have never been denied a summit due to whiteout conditions. But after a while you have to ask yourself why summit? It is definitely a let down to top out and not get any views Some day I am gonna repeat the E ridge of Triumph so I have a chance to experience the position. Underestimating the size of a climb is my biggest error, but I have never been denied a summit more than once. It is not that I am Joe-hardman, I set realistic goals for myself. So my list of "failures": Ingraham Direct in winter- Partner dropped to his knees puking at 13,800' bummer! Three Fingers- misjudged the amount of time needed to do in a day. East Ridge of Forbidden-attempt made in mid October and we thought we could start after the sun came up and warmed the route plus a fairly short amount of daylight period. Burrrr just thinking about the snow on the ridge makes me cold. I have yet to make a second attempt on Rainier in winter (schedules) and I almost got to try Forbidden a second time but my partner bailed at the last minute.