Smoker

I trashed the zipper on my light weight bag this past weekend. So I post this for those that might need alterations/repairs on the Eastside.... Fit-Rite alterations 562-5155 They fixed me right up while I waited to the tune of 5 buc's, they Maybe they can fix you up too

Nice work Lee Thats some cascade climbing at its finest way to

Thats what I'm talkin' about and how it was when I did it 3 yrs ago about this same time. We were able to climb out from under the shrund and sweep back to the upper snow. Fantastic is probably how I would describe the climbing, but it was only a couple 5.8 moves with pons on, in about half a pitch.

mmmm..mixed!!!

Yup, that was us

No probs with the shrund, it was filled nicely but I'll bet in 2 weeks that wont be the case. The glacier was "punchy" late in the day

Did the west ridge on Sat. The Coulior is fat right now and we solo'd it. We saw 5 teams on the West ridge, 1 team on the East and North east ridges. Lots of traffic but no problems passing. We climbed the ridge solo,simul and belayed about 4 pitches. We rapped 3 times and solo downclimbed the rest. We're old and slow so it took all day but it was great weather and views.

I would guess that you could get the route done with lite-weights. I would still choose the rigid if I repeat it. The ice difficulties were slight on the far left of the cliff when we did it in mid July, but I would want rigids for the rock section to gain the upper slopes. Besides, part of the joy of the climb was the ice.

Is there still a slung rock in the summit block to rap off of? Those steps traversing back to the summit are fun! Nice work

Thanks Matt

It was good chatting with you and Gaston. I'm gonna return with body armor Even better watching you send American Pie Who knows the beta to Spencers Spaceport?

Meaning that you could not clip a bolt and be toproped through the crux moves? You had to make hard moves above your protection? I am so sorry. Are you sure climbing is the right sport for you? Meaning that if they had been placed on lead the bolts would have been placed where they belong instead of being contrived into something they are not. 6 clips and gear in 100ft is not old school Like it or not the lower grades set the tone for how the rock there was developed. I'm saying it was poorly thought out. Sorry to criticize your work Mitch great rock none the less

Climbed at Goat Dome last Saturday. I had never been there before and it looked to be some what cooler (in temps). The friction is by far the very best I have been on in Lworth. Unfortunately the routes I did are poorly arranged. With the clips coming after crux moves I enjoy a "heady" lead as much as anybody, but after seeing how poorly placed the bolts were (or non existant) I was a bit reluctant to attempt routes at my limit. Too bad... its the best friction I've found in the Icicle. Knobs of Shame is a fun lead, Dick is Dead is good as well but you got to have your stuff since it has only 2 bolts for the last blank 50ft crux. Fun climbing but I would not recomend it due to the approach and poor bolt spacing. Climbed at Alphabet on Sun the moves on Meat Grinder are F'ing hard , and had Trundle Dome on Monday to ourselves. great weekend to be climbing,

i work for the state......... sometimes. Once in a while I'm a ward of the state....does that count?

I'm with you Coop. If I'm craggin I use the DB with a Yos finish, but I have had it invert if the knot is not dressed neat. I use a figure 8 for multi pitch.

True story?: Years ago I'm in the ICU repairing some broken shit, a nurse is in a room taking the blood pressure of a older gal with weight issues (she's spilling out of the bed). Nurse reaches under the blanket and wraps the cuff around the womans boob instead of her arm w/out knowing. (Large folks have lots of flesh hanging around and I suppose mistakes are made now and again, besides who wants to look too close at that? She's standing there inflating for a long time wondering why the cuff isn't working before she decides to lift the blanket and check things out.... ever seen a huge purple balloon? The gal was out cold but I recken she had to wonder about that

The Mounties are a great place for folks to learn. Ultimatly they do us all a great service by keeping most newcomers safe (and together) while they mantle the learning curve. They are simply ripe targets waiting to be barbed at the same time. No harm...just alot of good lovin for our less experienced bros and sisters in the field. The folks that truly have a prob with the Mounties are the ones that climb at Mountie grade You'll move on and leave em behind with time.

SWEET!!!

So whats the problem? You've got some basic skills, folks have been willing to drag you about and yet...... you whine? If your not getting return partners perhaps your not buying enough ? Or maybe your basic "skills" are a bit too "basic"? Who knows? Only you can answer these Q's I have taken the time to climb with a few folks of various ability/experience and I seem to see 2 basic types of rookie. Some climbers will question almost everything that happens i.e anchor inspection,rap stations (why do we back this up when we didn't before) belay stances etc. Other climbers will simply follow leads, clean gear with out looking, clip into anchors without ever inspecting/comprehending what the nature of the anchor is etc.... the first type of climber will benefit from spending time with an experienced partner and improve their skills ultimatly becoming an asset to a partnership. The second type will be a hazzard to climb with and they tend to want to get on the sharp end simply due to the amount time spent following. I am painting with a fairly broad brush but this has been my experience....what camp is your tent pitched in? Or you could look at it this way For some of us climbing is a way of life for others it is simply a sport It's all good

LOL. Yes, you are right, this applies to cars...built in the 1970s that is. What you fail to mention is that manufacturing techniques for unibody vehicles have improved immensly due to the fact that every manufactuer uses them now. You should definitely give Subaru and Audi a call and tell them that their world rally championship cars are crap and cant handle the rigors of being driven balls out over crappy terrain at 100+ mph. But I'm sure that's nothing compared to the stresses of rolling slowly down the cascade river road. I cant believe I read this thread/waste of time this am. If Audi were sellin us their rally cars then we would not have a need for this thread. A7u's observation is spot on in reguards to frame/unibody construction. What I dont get is why folks seem to be so "pleased" with their rigs that go 100k mi? USED to be considered that a rig was just broke in then. I got 300k+ out of a 74 Pinto! and 275K out of an S-10 (i did have to rebuild the eng once cause S-10's are crap) How many of you have even kept a rig on the road over 200K? It doesn't much matter what you drive if your getting a new rig every 100k or so, 100k aint shit

I usually throw out the footbeds that come with boots I have bought in the past. I use superfeet, they come in low and high volume, green being the high. They have made my boots better.

I saw a chopper fly down I-90 while I was pullin' wet moves at 38 yesterday maybe around 3:00?

Fear of falling is natural. 3 cam 4 cam alien BD it dont matter. A well placed cam in solid rock will hold your fall. The key is living long enough to know what a well placed cam is. If your new to climbing it is best to lead below your climbing limits. Doing some aid will help you with your placements. My partner has demonstrated a willingness to whip on Metolious,Alien and BD cams. All of which has been proven to be bomber placements and sure to rattle his head If I had to pick 4 cams for general climbing/cragging it would be .5,.75,1,2 in BD. Double axles and stops go a long ways towards peace of mind for me. That was phunny Mitch.

The approach up the climbers "trail" into Tokatie is fun, but can be by-passed. While it is further to travel, consult your topo, it is less work to travel up the snow lakes trail to where it crosses the creek. then make an ascending traverse back towards the outlet of tokati. Dont ascend to quickly and look for old blazes, maybe even a cairn or 2 still standing. You will be goin cross bush

Sometimes posts just sneak in there My bad?