Smoker

Wow, I guess I too love HC!

Would you like me to knock rocks down on you? And then inform you that its no big deal! Bark at you or get get hyper while you try to send? Maybe you would like me to rumage thru your pack while your up climbing? Help myself to what ever interests me... Only losers bring their dogs to the crags. What does that make you? NIce troll putz boy

Kudos to all of "us" for having restraint and attempting reasonable conversation. Lambone, you are a brave soul to lay it all out as you have. Good decision making is difficult when we are in fear. I will submit that wise decisions were made by you and your party as the outcome proves. I believe that you made an excellent choice by leaving the decision to call up to the group. Ego has no rightful place in decision making. You may not see it now, but I believe that you demonstrated your ability to lead and care for those less experianced. It will become apparent to them with time as well. None of us can predict weather (even the paid ones) so there's no sense asking what if's. I guess the only point I would make, and I was not there so I'm not second guessing your choices, is this- With an altimeter, compass and topo the Sitcom route is navigatable. But you must be competent to do so otherwise you will get lost and that would be a worse choice than the choices you made. Yeah it is scary to travel that way for long stretches but, for me personally, since I choose not to carry a phone it requires that I get out and move, navigate and roll the dice. For me treeline = fire and warmth. Wet and moving has always been ok for me. Wet and standing (laying) around = not good Too bad you didn't have good weather, the longest glissade I have made was on the Sitcom route. Just below the summit all the way to high camp! Maybe next time! Smoker

Glad everyone is ok. I wish I could get stuck in an I tent with girlz

Looks like fun Dave. Great photos and tr.

A buddy of mine picked up repellant in Mexico when he was there.... much better than what he can get up here in the states. I dont know what is in it though...probably causes birth defects

There is a gully step followed by more scree traversing before reaching the chimneys proper. I was not there but the evidence in the snow led me to believe that the climber fell crossing the moat on this first gully. I hacked out a much better stance, getting onto the rock, knowing that someone had been busted up there. We had the whole route to ourselves S

The chimneys go snow free. The route is in great shape right now. We saw a single climber going in. His partner had broken his pelvis attempting to enter the chimneys the nite before. He was heli'ed out the morning we went in 7/18. Fun route. Smoker

Yeah, I agree with you Caveman. That would be the way to go. much better use of time and distance. S

Brian, that’s fairly ambitious goals, as your chosen summits are a bit far apart (Forbidden and Buckner). The one time I've been through the Boston Sahalie col, I saw no suitable biv sites but I was not looking to biv there. Most folks do not attempt the East Ridge of Forbidden from here or from the Boston glacier side. You can gain the east ridge of Forbidden from the Boston glacier, but why? The only real reason to do this is if you have no permit for Boston basin high camp. BUT, it is the standard approach for the NORTH ridge of Forbidden. You will need time to do both these routes in the same trip, as they are some distance apart. Your best scenario is to high camp high on the Sahalie arm. Up and over Sahalie to Boston glacier, over to the N face route of Buckner up and over Buckner, back to Sahalie arm via Horseshoe Basin, then back over Sahalie to the col and down the Quien Sabe Glacier to the Boston Basin high camp below the standard West ridge approach to Forbidden. From there it is straightforward to the East Ridge of Forbidden and you can return to your biv the same day. Good luck I'm sure your guide will set you straight. Smoker

Yum! I knew I was afraid to ask where the panties were.

Ha, ha..maybe so but I'll have fun getting lost!

Thank you.

I dont know anyone with C&S Designs, but they are out there.... Some one tell us more S

Approach beta please... how long in measure of time, is the "trail" straight forward? Thanks, its next on my wish-list smoker

I'm not sure why I didn't like the pitch. The "10+" moves them selves were not mud covered, just aaaalllll the moves up to the traverse. There is a small overlap/seep that cast mud/dirt onto the line in a expanding (route covering way). Serious pucker factor on the traverse Whats up with Smoots rating of 5.7 for the Rubber Soul pitch? (Old School?) It was by far the best pitch of the 4 I led. Thanks Matt I'll bring a brush next time and work it over proper! S

I finally got on "Total Soul" last weekend. While we only got up 5 pitches before the monsoon hit us I thought that the route was sweet. So I am wondering about a few things... Did Matt and Dave put up the Superfly pitch? I know that they are credited with the top 3 pitches. Has anyone done the Superfly when it was not covered in mud and dirt? What time of year would be best? End of summer? It looked to me like most folks do the Anti-fly. I found the Superfly to be superhard. I am not certain why but I was not that impressed with the pitch, I would say that with the loose gravels,dirt and mud it climbed more like .11+ yeah the traverse moves left make you think before commiting but if the pitch is never climbed (or rarely) I doubt if it is ever an "enjoyable" lead. What about the Anti-fly? Is it better or just easier? And then what about the rounded shoulder to the left of the Total soul line and gully? Is it named? We climbed up through 4 anchors on the old buttonheads but while there was a sea of granite above we could see no line to continue. Does anyone know if there is a route that continues higher? I am looking forward to returning and getting the entire route (Total Soul). Matt and Dave, thanks for all the awesome anchors and hardware up there. You guys deserve a beer or three. Smoker

It is well documented that when the fig 8 on a bight is used (rope tails out of the knot side by side)to join rope, that it can (the knot) invert and walk off the rope. If a figure 8 is used, make it a re-woven 8 with the tails exiting the knot on the standing line side. DRESS your knots well and leave some tail. S

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ingraham Direct pshaw... real smoker would do InOunce Direct. I've done that line...

Great TR. I think the West ridge route description is classic Becky speak. And a great climb.

Nice, I knew someone HAD to be out in this weather. Good TR. Smoker

Thank you joekania. Well said. S

I bought a biv bag for cheap from LL bean a few yrs back. I have biv'd at 11,000 on Rainer in good weather, survived torrents and been fine in mists. If they zip across the chest, it makes sitting up possible while waiting out the rain I have never carried a tarp/cover for mine as that kinda defeats the lite weight thing. S

quote: Originally posted by AllenN: I *can't* believe that only one person has an opinion (but no -why- to that opinion) on this topic... -Allen I believe we all have an opinion one way or the other. My opinion is that you are an impatient ass. If you really wish to know what screw works best in "Cascades glacier ice" find out for yourself. Test the limits of your gear for yourself and make up your own mind about what you bother to protect yourself with. And don't worry about what I use. Smoker

quote: Originally posted by RURP: This is RURP. I am familiar with "Agent Orange". He is from Eastern Europe and in my opinion is one of the most intense and skilled climbers living in the Northwest. I would compare him to Mr. Mark Twight as an expert alpinist.(snip) -RURP has spoken. This is all a bit humorous (unfortunately at Colins and Marks expense) But I'll bother to point out the obvious- "Agent Orange's" one single post in life is a baseless slam on someone that ticked a sweet line in difficult conditions. With an attitude that that oozes envy and practically states that if AO couldn't climb, certainly no one else could. Lets not forget that one party chose to do a line that offers protection from above, it IS a ridge after all, (hey, nice choice, considering temps and weather!) The other party, "one of the most intense and skilled climbers living in the Northwest" choose a regular bomb-fest to "attempt". Amazingly, this climber decided to turn around so he could live to spray here, at our expense and waste of bandwidth (thanks alot ) About the only thing I can see that they have in common is a bad attitude. Colin left gear, easily verifiable and he has photos, that he will gladly share. What else is needed? Bring em to Pub club at 38 Colin. I would like to see them. Nice work guys Oh and rurp, I've read your contributions plenty. You really lend credibility to agentO To the rest of you gapers nice troll. Smoker