Smoker

Single rope for big wall, with the haul line as emergency back-up Col. You decide if you use a static or Dynamic for the haul. If your a speed climber, does it matter? I realize that the answer has been stated already. I am simply making sure that it is obvious enough for those posting and those simply reading.

Here is your answer to your question The UIAA test that determines a ropeís strength is called the drop test. The test uses a 176-pound (80-kilogram) weight for single ropes and 121 pounds (50 kilograms) for half ropes. Comprende`? Interpretation for the comprehension challenged to follow: Half ropes are tested with less weight ergo they "can" be smaller and still pass the test. Most of us like our ropes light or lighter. The Beal "Stinger" is the lightest single on the market at 9.4mm (or used to be) Comparing half ropes to singles are like comparing Apples and Oranges?

What Forrest said. Copy from somewhere listing the tech stats: Rope Testing Standards The International Union of Alpine Associations (UIAA) is the governing body that develops testing standards to evaluate climbing ropes. It is important to understand these standards and testing procedures, and how they compare to actual use of climbing ropes. Falls Held The UIAA test that determines a ropeís strength is called the drop test. The test uses a 176-pound (80-kilogram) weight for single ropes and 121 pounds (50 kilograms) for half ropes. In the test, the weight is tied onto the rope above an anchor. The weight is then dropped 16.4 feet on a 9.2-foot section of rope. This creates a fall factor of 1.8. The fall factor is determined by dividing the amount of rope out of the anchor by the vertical distance fallen. The most serious theoretical fall is one with a fall factor of 2. The higher the fall factor, the more limited the rope is in absorbing the energy of the fall. During the test, the weight is dropped repeatedly until the rope breaks, and that is the number of falls held. The UIAA fall test puts a great deal more force than on a rope than real climbing situations. If you have a rope that held 7 falls in the fall test doesnít mean you need to retire it after 7 falls while sport climbing. But if your rope has sustained long, hard falls close to the belay, then you should retire it. Impact Force Impact force is determined during the same fall test. A climbing rope is manufactured to stretch during a fall to absorb the energy generated by the fall. The UIAA standards for impact force states that no more than 2640 pounds are to be transferred to the climber during the first fall of the test. on

Nice post old timer

I notice the climber that began this rant has had nothing more to say... even though a few folks have enquired about taking the axe off his hands. He was simply ranting.... just like me I went to FF to buy a light weight down bag many yrs back. (they have a reputation as a good place to get down gear, rightly or wrongly deserved) When I got there I was told they had none of what I was looking for, and hadn't for many months ( I was hoping to see the bag that had a draw string on the foot for moving around with out having to get out of the bag) not only that but I was informed that they didn't keep different styles on the floor. But I was welcome to order anything I liked, same as the rest of the free world. I bought a great down bag else where. I dont believe that I have to be on the other side of the counter to understand how much climbing shops want my cash. Usually it is demonstrated to me in person. Either through the flyers sent to me asking to buy the latest stuff on the shelves or by the gumbus behind the counter. I was in Marmot last spring with a pocket full of "change" but the guy "helping" with the ropes wasn't so I took my bread elsewhere. Thats life. I bought a great Farmer John from FF a few years ago. They do have some great gear, if you can get through their BS. If you mark many shops off the list of where you'll spend your cash, all that will be left is cyber-shopping. Oh what a drag....no hassles, traffic, parking or dicks like me to deal with. And it comes straight to my door!! Oh what ever will I do with myself now that I have no sales people to HARASS!

Great review Chris I have wondered about split boards for a while. thanks for taking the time to post

Too bad you cant take the axe back. Live and learn. FF has their problems On a different note, a short axe has its place in the arsonal. I own 3 different axes, each one seems to get used/carried every year. Add it to the war chest and take your business to a shop that appreciates it. Happy climbing!

Nice climbing guys. Looks thin above the knob belay, but you managed something in before traversing to the ice step I bailed a couple yrs back from the capt's stance when we attempted the line with a 50 meter. We didn't want to end up in no mans land below the ice step, that is a tough lead to protect. Great photos, looks pretty thin!

I think that some folks naturally produce more "vaper" than others. On extended trips this will be more of an issue. For a night or 2 out, if your having condensation problems it is a gear issue IMHO. Leave room for off-gassing by not sealing your self up tight. On multi days out I make use of the wind and thermals to "air out" and dry my bag. I heard somewhere that it helps to roll your bag up tight (2tx) as soon as you exit it to force as much of the warm air out and reduce condensation build up. I carry 2 ridge rests, full & 3/4 for winter temps for insulation and wear as much clothing as I can/need with out restricting loft. I have been cold but never too wet. I bought a great biv sac from LL Bean many years ago. Interesting thoughts on the overbags ability to transmit vapor. If all else fails grab your and pray for daybreak. Oh yeah, last time I was smoking in the Muir Hut (week after x-mas a few years back) I brought my Biv and summer bag and single full length pad. Ice box cold in that stone but I slept warm Biv sacs do add warmth.

I am old and sloe

That would be Pete? unless pete has a son that followed in the old mans footys

klenke thanks for splain'n that whole solstice thingy cool read

I would simply add that .5 hr is simply not enough time. You'll need to be a bit more selfish with your time to see improvement. Good luck

Bandwagon, fallingoffthewagon or clueless one. Dare I point out the obvious? 3 tasteless posts is no chance? I found the first post pointless & unacceptable let alone the following 2. You got 2 more chances than you deserve, (and in case you have a difficult time counting thats is 2/two more opportunities to redeem yourself that you squandered) You got your point across with the first post Live and learn

I thought about doing some waterfall climbing but decided to raise hell around here and do some power shopping

Yeah, and I haven't done any hot rodding either I simply skipped the "horizontal" aspect of the original query...queer eh? I dunno, we read lotsa weird stuff on this board... just look at what I wrote???? It was an early morning

Who makes em? Sounds good and spendy!!!

They get nicked, but I dont file all the nicks back out. I end up attempting to find a happy medium, and I dont make the angle of the "triangle" too steep. As Bone points out It is pretty easy to file away your points if your obsessive about sharpness.

Colin's trolling!!! You cant get me to believe that you actually carry pons to climb? You just lost a star!!! Dull points displace more ice and require more effort to set. I file my Rambos from the side creating a "triangle".

Given the limited resources and gear, this discussion is more masterbation than anything. So, with the givens, no help around, weighted rope,unresponsive/unconcious victem...... First off, any action (except cutting the rope) will be time consuming. If you cut the rope then you will NOT be descending a weighted rope. So that is not an option in this scenario. The only way down will be to reverse ascend using prussiks or webbing, or should you be fortunate enough to have more than half the rope in your lap you could rap on that, BUT that is not a resource listed and can not be considered. Besides, we wouldn't be descending a weighted fixed line would we? I suppose that you might consider solo down climbing but again thats not an option when faced with a weighted rope we wish to descend. So what are we left with? descending the weighted fixed rope using prussiks or webbing. This is an obtuse discussion at best.

I was sick of avacados by the time I finished reading what all Tricky can do with them! I have always had problems keeping weight. I would like to hear how long you felt any benefits (days?) from the "diet" I can weigh from 145-158 depending on fat & lifting program. But generally speaking, after prolonged climbing trips I will shrink down to the 145 mark reguardless of input of calories. Folks that have told me I'm "lucky" have never seen me shake at a belay much less led off with me holding the ropes while dancing better than Elvis! Gainers fuel has put on extra lbs for me with out the need to "grease out". But the gained insulation always vanishes after a couple of cold days out.

Admitting the Tooth was climbed is the first step, it's the only way to work past denial! Good style throwin' in the solo.

I dont get it Some folks have stars below stars others dont Short TR from the shop Fri am early Its early and I dont want to work yet. As the clock strikes 4:30 and I'm making my way through the second cup of joe of the day I spy a small problem. Above the Radial arm table (maybe 8'6-9') is a florescent fixture suspended in place by a single 10' long piece of light weight unistrut. One end is loosely fastened by a huge 'U' bolt the other bolted to the sloped ceiling with plumbers tape. As my eyes return to ground level to inspect the potential grounder I am contemplating, my co-worker's eyes meet mine with a look of "What the fuck could you be thinking/staring at on the ceiling" this early in the day? Oh yeah, thats exactly what his look said, I was there and the challenge had been laid with out a word spoken. I couldn't believe the the short shit would even think of giving me grief at that hour (he's like 5'5" with heal lifts) So I slamed down the coffee cup and lept to the table top. No verbal exchange whatsoever. I positioned myself directly below the Unistrut and gaged the leap. It was'nt pretty but I coiled and sprang judging the distance perfectly reaching the apex just as my fingers wrapped the steel bar. A mass of sawdust floated down off the fixture and into my co-workers hair and mouth as he gaped up at my swinging torso The light flickered once as I carefully swung hand over hand toward the beam the unistrut was shakily positioned on, a simple heal hook and a twist had me ontop of the structural girder, looking down I kicked more sawdust laughing "Try that short shit". He knew the dead point was well beyond his shortened stature and he scurried away to avoid the dry dust storm I was intentionally unleasing from above. The down climbing was uneventful and we began our workday in proper style, with a break for more coffee. I love Fridays! Then there's Dru with his One red (North?) Star

Great subject IMHO Visualization tech is a great way to supplement training. I find that I need a pretty clear goal before I see any results though. Well the above statement needs to be taken in context. Was it the only climb attempted or was it 1 out of a dozen or more successes? If you have a zero failure rate then your probably not pushing yourself and visualizing wont be any help if your not willing to push. I have backed off a few climbs in my time, and believe that it is healthy to do so once in a while. Lots of factors in alpine climbing, few are in your controll. If you are backing off once in a while then you most likely are pushing your limits (which for me is important to experience some of the time but not allways, I need a few cruiser routes for fun) If your backing off most of the time then your probably setting unrealistic goals (or scoping difficult lines that infrequently come into shape) In the "How to climb rock" series there is a book, How to climb 5.12, it discussess cycles of training, visualization and maximizing performance. It doesn't really deal with alpine climbing but I have found it helpful in setting short term goals. (and no, I am no-where near a .12 climber, although I have belayed 1 or 2) Bastards!!!! I also think that choice in partners is paramount to success. I have had alpine partners that only considered themselves during a climb, (not bad, but I believe that teamwork is important) I have also had partners that are driven to the point of exceding their abilitys (a very not good situ to find yourself in when the shit gets intense) I think the best performance I can give comes when I am at ease with what my partners limits are, and when I can break down my fears into manageable sections of risk/exposure, reguardless of partners. That means clear goals, good communication skills, an ability to suffer and a realistic grasp of what the "team" can accomplish. Just my fragmented thoughts on an early non climbing day. Smoker