dberdinka

It's been a while but I'm sure there is a small TCU placement just after you bust the hard move off the ramp that will protect the second as they do the same. With that said one of my most terrifying memories from my "formative" years of rock climbing is having to follow that pitch without any pro off the ramp. That's a big swing your buddy took, I think he should be happy that he broke only one bone in his hand.

Bump. Hello? Anyone?

Anyone want to get out climbing for one more day before the rain comes back? Looking for experienced partner to swing leads on multipitch 5.10 or such tomorrow. D-Town works too. PM me.

Nice job!! (just had to add the ubiquitous toasting graemlin) I sat in my cubicle yesterday. Joy!!!!!

Damn! How'd you get from the top of one mountain to the other?

All suggestions are good. I'd add Angel's Crest - long and varied with, I think, six 5.10a pitches and a short bolted 5.10b crux. Sun Blessed - You can skip the last pitch and do a 5.10a variation pitch that heads left at the top of pitch 2.

If you don't like the runouts don't climb it! With the diversity climbing areas and routes in the PNW you should have no problems finding climbs that match your risk-threshhold . Furthermore it sounds like you were off route. I recall all the bolts on OnLine being 3/8" and in good condition. Prepare to be flamed!

I finally found my answer..... http://news.man.ac.uk/1054290245/index_html

I think the obvious conclusion is that six isn't enough! There is just a huge variety of choices exhibiting all sorts of characteristics. It's far easier and more fun to answer something like what are the 6 most appealing... ..snow and ice north faces ..almost purely rock north faces ..mixed north faces ..winter north faces i.e. snow and ice might be something like Baker Coleman Headwall Fury NE Face Buckner N Face Shuksan N Face Maude N Face Rainier Liberty Ridge So I guess we can all sit here and make endless varieties of lists. Joy!

Definitely lots of options here but...the following are all big, beautiful and have classic routes on them. Fury N Face Bear N Face Slesse NE Side Goode NE to NW side Redoubt NE Face Shuksan NW Face Somehow the N side of Stuart and the N Face of Dragontail should be in this list too but those are the first six to come to mind.

Just agreeing with Josh. I climbed the Entiat Icefall several years ago now and it is still one of my best climbing-trip-memories. I did the extra looooong approach but that ended up being all part of the attraction. NF looks like a snow slog IMHO. Went in late June of a relatively low snow year and conditions were just about perfect. http://www.ac.wwu.edu/~berdind/alpine/maude/frame.html

I'll be there. Though if you're looking for sleaze we better head to the Royal...

Aid and rope-solo gear for Sale: 4 6-Step Black Diamond Aiders (2 purple, 2 grey) $50 Rock Exotica Soloist with BD Vario Chest Harness $50 Rock Exotica Solo-Aid $35 2 On-Sight Daisys $10 PM me if interested.

Last fall there was some rumor around here about the removal of the bridge crossing Anderson River. Evidently that's not the case. Is there still a gate/camp/watchman? Can you make any predictions on access through the rest of the year? An observation. I went in there a couple times in fall of '99 or '00 then again in fall of '02. The roads into the area are rapidly being reclaimed by slide alder to the point that something I once drove on was practically a bushwack. Access will only get worse, go soon!

Who? When? That would be a mighty impressive descent.

Ouch!! That kinda hurts my feelings. Please keep insulting me I like your icon

Split Pillar. If it was on the ground The Sword would be the easiest 5.11a in the world.

Is that a joke?

What are we missing in the old one? A bunch of over-bolted contivances on every piece of rock more than 12' tall? Or am I mistaken and there actually are new routes of quality showing up? There, something to talk about.

We have time to sit and listen

Tell us about Greybeard!?

Has Dolomite Tower ever seen a repeat? Anyone? Anyone?

I'm feeling like the only climber (if I can still call myself that) who hasn't climbed Triple Couliors this winter/spring/summer? Any feeling on how much longer it's going to last? One more weekend? Or melted out today? Thanks. Darin

Fill me in. What new routes of interest have been added?

Not Really. The East Ledges descent will be a little quicker but has a very long traverse on loose, very exposed class 3/4 ledges. A competent group that is willing to solo such terrain will be a ble to make a much faster descent this way. If you plan on rappelling and belaying the whole way I'd just go back down the West Ridge. Some people have route finding difficulties on the East Ledge descent route as well.