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breadbox

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About breadbox

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  1. Advice on our next route selection...

    Fuhrer finger may already be out of condition. We ran into a group on Friday who were descending from it, saying they hit a crevasse that they couldn't find a way around. FWIW.
  2. Kautz Glacier

    We didn't like the rockfall that came down on us in The Fan on the way up, so we crossed the Nisqually from the Wilson on the way down, many other parties were doing the same. Nisqually was pretty game-on though. Dozens of good campsites on the rocky ridge all the way from 9200 to Camp Hazard. We ran into a surprising number of groups camped on the snow that said they didn't know of these, and were camping on the snow only because they had heard that camping at Camp Hazard proper was dangerous.
  3. So, so sick. Thanks for putting this up Clint. I echo your notes on hydration, so critical for the long pushes with little/no sleep. Do you think a foot powder would help at all with the feet? I've been thinking about this since my last episode but haven't had a chance to try it yet - for those long pushes where there just isn't much time to adequately dry feet.
  4. Kautz Glacier

    Returned this morning. Excellent climbing. One tool and one axe should be good to go. Any specific questions?
  5. FS: Baruntses, Corsa axe, Tele gear, etc.

    PM sent about the Baruntses in case ^^ balks ;-).
  6. Boot Quiver

    Just returned - plans changed. We did Liberty Bell, Concord, Lexington, Mt. Formidable, and Mix-up and the D7's were money for all of them. What helped was having some Montbell puffy pants that I could dry my footbeds and socks in at night, and I dried the shoes some by sleeping on them in my bag. I'll use the same setup next time, maybe with better Sealskinz socks (I lost one so only had one for the whole trip, and it didn't seem to matter much). Thanks everyone!
  7. Boot Quiver

    I was thinking less about stream sections and more about slushy glaciers, but maybe this is overkill.
  8. [TR] Mt. Goode - Northeast Buttress 7/4/2009

    I did a carry-over of Goode in '02, with Sahale and Forbidden. Definitely the way to go.
  9. [TR] Mt. Goode - Northeast Buttress 7/4/2009

    Nice TR! Any regrets about the approach shoes?
  10. Boot Quiver

    I'm coming up there to do Montecristo, Kyess, SLoan, Stuart, & Ingalls with some seasoned friends. Last time I came up we did Forbiddeen/Torment and I wore Vasque Sundowners - feet were OK but climbing sucked - I think I switched to rock shoes for a section or two. My question: I'm considering using Montrail D7's with a recent stealth dot resole for everything - yeah, including the glaciers - with stretch schoeller gaiters and perhaps some seal-skin socks or neo socks for the wet sections. Am i nuts? My friend Ziff says he's been doing the same thing and it's been working well. I also remember a friend doing trekking peaks in Nepal this way - gore text, low-top approach shoes for Island Peak. Let me have it...
  11. Megamid opinions

    I use a well-vented megalight-style shelter, made by the same guy who used to design them for BD. I've been in fairly strong winds in it, in the winter. When properly anchored, they are nails. The biggest drawback for snow camping in them is that getting the maximum stability value requires spending quite a bit of time digging & anchoring & wall building & excavating. Much more so then just throwing up a Bibler. Somewhat like 1/4 of the effort required for a snow cave. Just something to take into account.
  12. The new ultalight tents...

    BB, you talkin bout the new Epic-fabric BD tents or the regular Todd-Tex Biblers? I haven't tried the new Epic tents yet, but understand part of the deal with Epic tent fabric is that it's more breathable than Todd-Tex and Gore-Tex laminate. I'm sorry, doesn't the original post specifically ask about the new BD Epic fabric Ultralight tents? I have a Lighthouse, and it ices up pretty bad. Haven't been in fowl weather in it yet. I've also got a Megalite, which also ices pretty bad (Sil ain't breathable) but has been bomber in high winds when set up properly.
  13. The new ultalight tents...

    BD tents: They don't breathe so hot, so if you don't need the ultralight 4-season sturdiness, I'd say don't bother. Sturdy & light for those who need them.
  14. Sleeping bag question

    Check out the Anjugliak bags (Mammut). http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=31&dart=3&tid=1697 I slept in a Speedlight Summer on Shasta last month in about 10 degree weather (in my belay parka and hat) - I wasn't warm but I was ok. If they come out with a bag similar to the 510g one @ around 850g, that would be the ticket.
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