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Everything posted by dberdinka
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Say this did occur, what impact do you think it would have on the presidential election? Would it assist Bush with increased support as was seen following 9/11? Or would a second attack be viewed as a failing of policy and hurt his popularity? I tend to think the former based on the flag waving frenzy that followed 9/11. Any (deeper) thoughts?
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A super tight #2 would be bomber hands, but at midrange the cracks a little wide. A #1 size crack is a little tight. I've got one #1.5 Camalot that BD made a couple years back. It rocks for hand-size! Wish I had bought more when they were out. Anyone else use this?
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Evidently I was rubbing one off with the Level III sex offenders across the street.
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So post it here, I'm curious.
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Ok, being more or less a parttime lurker, I can't keep up with all this shit. You sprayers (and moderators) need to keep a rolling list for the rest of us of who's been banned by the day, the hour or by the minute as today seems to warrant. Banned on 9/23/2003...????
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Tell us a story Tim!
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Adamants are not in the Southern Selkirks (obviously), only commenting on the book already published.
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Hmmm, lets see, moderately sized, completely obscure, chossy mountains a days drive from anywhere else all which require multiple days of suffering or an expensive ass heli-ride to get to. The one exception being Sir Donald which seems to only get climbed while on the way to somewhere else (ie Rockies and Bugaboos). And it didn't sell?! Gee Golly! Whos fault could it be.
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#1 Soloing Moonlight Buttress in 11hrs 20min #2-tie The Titan and Echo Tower in the Fishers. #2-tie Polar Circus back in March. Looking forward to winter.............................
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More thoughts. Of the major areas this leaves Index which is primarily owned by the state park system. Are they interested in getting involved in the management of the resource? For budgetary reasons alone I doubt it. Again, Eldo has an entrance fee that I assume indirectly helps support the enforcement of the oversite committees decisions. Would you be willing to pay an entrance fee to Index if thats what it took to manage the area? Again, I think everyone would be screaming.
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It seems important to point out that Eldorado Canyon is a State Park where government employees/officials are actively involved in the enforcement of bolting regulations. I can only assume that this particular government agency is climber friendly whether you agree or disagree with their "minimal new bolts" ethic. I would think this fact goes a long way towards the success of the oversite committee for that area. (Compare it to Boulder Canyon in the same region) In the PNW it seems a vast majority of our cragging takes place on forest service land (well Darrington and Leavenworth at least). I can't imagine a scenario where they would be interested in regulating the development of new routes outside of banning them completely. This leaves you with some sort of unoffical oversite committee that operates on peer pressure to enforce it's decisions. Good luck!
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Reminds me of a particular ice climbing related post/area from this spring....
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Those have been there for at least 12 years. They should be removed IMHO.
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Friggin Sweet Rad! Good job!
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Suggestions for easy climbs in the North Cascades?
dberdinka replied to cluck's topic in North Cascades
Mount Ruth. Easy and stupidly scenic. -
And in a parallel universe............. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=38285&forum=43
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NE Face of Mesachie Peak, Entiat Icefall on Mount Maude. They will be adventures whether you looked them up in a book or not.
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Reeling Some of us believe that reeling works because we've actually done it...and it works! Examples, climbing a real slab route on the Apron. Dancing in the Light comes to mind. Hard friction with regular 30' fall potential. I fell...a lot... my partner reeled..alot.. my (and his) falls were significantly shorter than they would have been. I'll take a 20'er over a 30'er anyday. (Slab falls start out slow there is plenty of time to reel) Spring '03 in Arches National Park. A 200+ lb friend backcleaning a pitch of A1 pulls a nut and begins whipping. It was a long clean fall. As the rope piled up in front of me I reeled (how much I don't know but I definitely went through the action). Stopped him tight (and got yanked into the wall) after a 40'er. Fun! Fun! Two weekends ago watched a dude blow a clip on The Grinning Weasel and go for a wicked 50+'er. His buddy was reeling like mad he came up <10' shy of the ledges at the belay. Would have been ugly. Did reeling help....?
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Got up at 4:30 AM on Saturday Did double carries in the dark to the start of Merci Me. Discovered the joys of expando aid as the pins I stood on fell out while I placed the next one. Spent my first night in a portaledge. Drank malt liquor. Watched the sunset over Squamish Pooped in a bag! Bailed from 85% of the way up the route. Rode my pig like the be-och it is. Was really, really happy for a little while. Life is good.
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It's real nice and quiet up at Colchuck Lake these days and you'll have the route and summit to yourselves! Just go on the weekend to avoid the work crews and take your chances with the forest service.
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Sold, not to any of you wankers
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It's alright, the north face is a better climb IMHO.
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Anyone looking for a Toyota truck? Its a red 4wd, regular cab, short bed with a 4-cylinder engine. Comes with a Leer Canopy and bedliner. Has been very reliable, still runs great. 211,000 miles. $1,950 OBO PM me, or email at dberdinka@yahoo or call 303-4994. Thanks! Darin
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It ain't recent beta but I climbed it in late-late September of a low snow year. It certainly LOOKED impossible from the bivi all the way until we got on the rock but it went. Good stuff! Have fun.