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Everything posted by dberdinka
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maybe the nwhikers can come to the picnic for a full on CC.com vs NWhikers.net brawl.
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I DO! I DO! A) They should climb more mountains and post more interesting TRs so I can watch everyone's panties fill up with hot sauce cause this shit is too funny. B) They should also learn to ski next winter because slowshoeing is ghey among other things. C) "Layback" is a very disturbed individual with far to much of his self-image wrapped up in his online interactions. D) Based on their TR can anyone point out a single steep, sun-facing slope they were on that was not wind-scoured? (See related avi forecast) oh...and E) 99.9% of us would be way to lazy or unfit to ever get past the washout in july much less in april. So big congrats for crushing a huge approach. What is youth for if not pushing the barriers now and again?
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Dukes of Ballet is well worth doing as well. With a bit of A0 on the first pitch (yarding and standing on bolts) it goes at mid-10 I recall and is 4 pitches long with a mix of crack and face climbing.
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Recently Gene and I climbed several other routes up there that were cleaned up last year. Beta Here Weekday Warrior and P1 of Potatoe Chip Flake are nice meaty Leavenworth 5.9 cracks. P1 of Hot Shot is steep and well protected with a cool stem to jug finish. The Original Route looks sustained and intimidating. Definitely worth a visit. You could spend a couple full days in the Duty Dome/Warrior Wall Area now and climb nothing but 5.9, 5.10a and 5.10b pitches.
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I've seen it backed up to Skykomish before. We left L-town at 3:30 yesterday hoping to beat the mess and still got stuck before Goldbar. Suckage.
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The LTW on private land all this time? Amazing! I had always thought it was all owned by the state parks system. Unfortunately the one thing you really can do is respect any No Trespassing signs should they reappear until this issue is settled. **Total Conjecture** As posted elsewhere quarrying stopped when the railine was moved closer to the cliff in the 1960's. While climbers might be against quarrying I'd bet the railroad is even more against it for good reason. I think the railroad generally gets what it wants particularly when it comes to major railine across the Cascades.
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Cheap! Packs, nuts, screws, rope, cam, smurf suit
dberdinka replied to dberdinka's topic in The Yard Sale
Rope Gone Suit is size Large. I'm 5' 11" and 170lbs and in the lower-to-mid range of it's size. Would definitely fit bigger folks, smaller folks not so much. -
It's a long loose slog up there (2hrs?) Beautiful hunk of rock. I once climbed to the top of the pedestal and lounged in the sun before turning tail. The "5.7" pitch on the left side is a Yosemite quality OW/squeeze, we avoided it by a nice 5.9 crack just to it's left. Not much info I know. I'm sure others have much more detail. If you search the AAJ online there is a description of some aid climbs, one that takes a beautiful thin splitter, that are not mentioned in the L-town guides.
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Deleted somethings definitely sold, waiting to hear back on others Spring Cleaning. Tried to keep it cheap. You pay shipping at cost. Will give preference to purchasers of multiple items. Can except check or paypal. PM or e-mail my username @gmail.com Metolius #3 TCU No tweakage, excellent condition $18 Patagonia midweight pile suit. Size Large fit's 5' 10"ish to 6'+ Very rarely used $15 Wild Line Haul Pack waistbelt and shoulder straps pack away to form mini haul bag. Scruffed and dusty. Needs some love by waist belt. $10 Cilo Gear Clamshell Pack Used a few days, added waistbelt, great crag pack $25 Black Diamond 8mm x 30m glacier rope Brand New $30 Misc Ice Screws 1 x 22cm BD, 2 x17cm Smiley, 1 x 15CM Lazer or something like that Decent condition but these are definitely not state of the art screws $15 for all Lowe Tri-Cams 0.5-2 These have not been used in a long time $8 Tiny, tiny Nuts #0,1,2 RPs #1,2,3 Stoppers 2 other Steel nuts $10 Random Nuts 5 or so finger size WC Rocks, 3 larger Metolius curved nuts, some other funk $5 or free with purchase over $50
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Teach them the Overhand Slippery Knot for all their rad Grade VII speed solos. (backup knot that releases when pulled from above but in theory synches tighter when pulled from below. Used to backup a haulbag hanging from a hook)
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Regardless of the fact he came off like a dork last night I've never quite understood how a brown catholic would win primarys in a party that is dominated by white Protestants. All the luck to him though!
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Whitehorse - Alpine Banana or whatever they called that couloir Hall Peak - definitely has super easy access and the potential for some pretty big WI lines. A bit subalpine for superclassic status but worthy destination none the less. Lake 22 - Headwall looks big with easy access Sloan Peak - The best looking winterline that everyone knows about yet no one has yet to climb N Twin Sister - Agreed that the west ridge is a semi-popular and fun winter climb Shuksan - Everyone climbs the N Face but there are obviously many other interesting moderate mixed line strewn about the NW side of the mountain with easy access. Washington Pass Area?? Cutthroat Early Morning Couloirs W Face Couloir on Silverstar other stuff?
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The Onion News Network is some of the funniest shite on the internet. Here's my favorite...I am the Law And another...2007 Ocular Penetration Restriction Act
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What am I missing here.....?
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Almost twenty years ago (!) I remember scrubbing and bouldering around on a mossy boulder in the woods near my girlfriends house. It even had an ancient rusty 1/4"er on top. In retrospect that's the only evidence I can recall that it might be climbable. I can't remember if it's 4' tall or 40'. Good luck. http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF&msa=0&msid= 103657142390340050646.000461f3fc9c999fa1b6b
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Great photos and nice climb. Seems like there might be a lot of nice moderate, mixed climbs on that flank of Shuksan.
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[TR] Colonial Peak - Right Ice Flow (New?) 1/25/2009
dberdinka replied to daylward's topic in North Cascades
You should post more TRs. Nice pics. I right clicked on the red X's copied the url and pasted it into a different tab of my web browser, if anyone's interested. -
I found very different conditions today at 2000' and 6000' feet. At 2000' (valley bottom) everything quite firm. At 6000' pole deep mush with a thin ice crust on top. I don't climbing conditions are very good right now.
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All shamelessly reposted from old TRs etc.
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My guess is that the you would be stopped by snow well before the river crossing which is about 5 miles from Mosquito Lake Road. From the river is ~5 miles to the end of the logging roads so now add a couple more more miles of slogging onto that. I could see doing one of them in a long sloggy weekend. But thats just a guess.
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It seems that the obvious answer is while mutual funds and so forth are invested in these banks so are many of Paulsons very wealthy buddies.
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Sorry Sol..... but you kind of set yourself up for it! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=588816