dberdinka

Best. Episode. Ever.

Appropriate use of Caps can help clarify your alpine rockclimb alpine: you frolicked gayly in a meadow wearing "approach shoes", the rock was solid and clean, snow was noted on a moutnain far in the distance. i.e. Liberty Bell, Salish, Ingalls Alpine: The snow is now between you and you're intended route. The pack is heavy, your legs are tired. i.e. Stuart N Ridge, Forbidden, NE Butt Slesse, Gunsight, EMS ALPINE: It's cold in these shadows. There are now two heavy packs full of icegear. Rock and ice fall is frequent. The rock is loose, runout or both. Your fragile mortality is contemplated. i.e. Nooksack, N Face of Inspiration

Dino is a REAL-ESTATE AGENT. Say no more.

Right up there with "Alpine Assault!"

Detailed 1st-person Account Some other dude who doesn't know what he's talking about "The Sherpas and the high-altitude porters can't be expected to play the role of fixing the ropes and camps on higher ground on K2." "When the weather cleared, the expedition leaders sent porters ahead to fix ropes at the Bottleneck." "Van Rooijen was dismayed to find, when he arrived at the Bottleneck, that the ropes had been incorrectly placed." AND "It was also becoming clear that not everyone was as skilled at mountaineering as they had made out. Confortola said: “At the beginning, everyone seemed to be experts, but they couldn’t do or didn’t do what they are supposed to.”" "There were too many who weren’t capable in the summit party." "As he lay in his hospital bed last week, van Rooijen, 40, said the lesson he had learnt from the climb is that on K2 you can rely only on small groups of trusted friends."

Don't be so hard on yourself Pavilion Edge The only good TR from last winter Beautiful Ice

Hey Tim. The following TRs should answer your questions. Nice loop trip from CA to Grimface then over to Cathedral. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=714785 http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=479047

Medium size rack of nuts and cams to a #3 Camalot would probably work just fine. The following two climbs were both good and had 5 minute approaches from the lake. Good night.

Always wanted to do that. Looks great!

Well Mr Conway your panties are certainly in a wad! From what I've read one gets the sense that K2 has been turned into a circus ala Mt Everest style. A lot of those ballsy and skilled climbers died on fully self-supported expeditions or doing small alpine style climbs. This waiting around and getting all bent that the other guys didn't fix ropes to your liking or blaming your gear (WTF?) is ridiculous. While I don't doubt these were all good folks, I'm of the impression they were all not the Rob Slater and Allison Hargreaves of the climbing world.

It's pretty fucking simple. If you're reliant on porters carrying and fixing ropes for the final summit push on K2 you're probably in over your head. Hubris has a way of catching up with all of us.

3 pics and a single paragraph? Thats all I get! I'm left feeling deprived. Great work, looks like an amazing route. I need to get some of that. D

Friends from CO climbed Roan Wall ~ a week and a half ago. Road, approach and climb are in good shape. Bivi Boulder was buried under 30' of snow still. They had many sightings of reticent humanoid type beings equiped with hand drills and SS gear.

That is friggin INCREDIBLE!

Noyce. Did you climb it or just read this > ? Climbed other stuff up there in June. Lots o rock. The Complete Black Pyramid

Black Pyramid - NW Face Beeatches!

Is your partner the Reinhard Fabish of North Face - Robie Reid fame? While the direct start is heavily threatened by serac fall from both sides of the buttress, the approach to the North Rib crosses an apparently much more stable "glacier" and has very little if any exposure to crevasse fall. For a lot of reasons it's the better climb IMHO.

Take it all with a grain of salt as I've never been there, but it looks like 10km from the main Harrison Lake Road to a junction with the old Chehalis route about halfway between Statlu Lake and Nursery Pass turnoffs, with minimal elevation change (~140m net in and 40m net out). Sounds pretty doable.

Well nearby at least....evidence is accumulating that there is an actual, breeding pack in the Methow Valley. First time since the 1930's. Very cool stuff. Wolves captured in Okanogan County

Amazing photos as always, but whats up with the tiny sizing? Need more pixels!

I'm sorry you lost your gear, hopefully someone will find and return it. Sounds like a very dangerous epic, fortunately we all tend to live through a couple of those when starting out. Save Slesse for the end days of summer when the ice is all gone (might not happen this year?) and you can approach in tennis shoes without having to roll the dice.

Anyone been back in here recently? Print at 150 dpi and it fits nicely on a page.

Jacobs Ladder up through P6 or so and the first two 5.10 pitches on RainMan make for a mostly nonslab day with lots of excellent crack and face climbing. CombShot on the Third Tooth of Comb Buttress is 3 pitches of good face and crack climbing. Around the corner is an amazing steep arete with a mix of bolts and cracks that is supposedly 2 pitches of mid/hard 5.11, looks a lot more like Index than D-Town.

What ridge route on Dome?