dberdinka

I don't think it's inappropriate at all. In fact it's a good idea. I've considered getting one of those. Count me in as a possible order if the price is right.

Nice work. Did you depproach via the old route marked in the Becky Guide? Thats some brushy shit or down the death slabs directly below the 3-Finger/Salish col?

Maybe if we had actually summitted.......

Trip: White Chuck Mountain - W Face Attempt Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: Though it turned out to be only an attempt I thought I'd put up some nice photos from the alpine last week as no one else has. Looking over at Three Fingers and White Horse I was sure someone had to be getting on that stuff, hard to believe it didn't happen...anyone? On Saturday December 12th, Matt Alford, Gene Pires came up short on the west face of White Chuck Mountain. Running out of time, protection and adequate psyche at the base of the final rime filled chimney system we bailed off via a long traverse to the standard NW ridge route. The climbing we did do was full-on with some good ice, plenty of not good ice, some insecure mixed climbing, a complete lack of adequate gear and lots of exposure. I climbed this peak twice during the winter of 2005 when high snow levels and stable weather created near perfect conditions for winter climbing in the Cascades. It's a great mountain, steep enough to offer sustained technical climbing, great features for winter routes and just big enough to be thoroughly committing but doable in a day. If roads are driveable to at least 3000' the approach is quite manageable as well. Matt and Gene are pretty much my go too guys for alpine climbing in the northwest. Though we've all climbed with one another we had never climbed as a group of three. It worked out great! It's so nice to have company as you get bombed by ice chunks at some crummy belay. Thanks guys! Climbing through runnels on P2 Start of P3 a decepitvely challenging pitch of WI4 R (i.e. snice 4) Shortly after Matt pointed out the entirely obvious fact that "This isn't a daddy climb" At the base of the mid-height snowfield Top of the snowfield Looking up into the final rime filled chimney ??? Traversing off the Mountain

Just a thought. All these winter tragedies on Mount Hood typically involve bad weather moving in and trapping climbers injured or otherwise high on the mountain. Everyone owns a cell phone, there is cell reception on Mount Hood. Compared to speaking with them how would some sort of beacon provide superior actionable data to rescue folks on the ground if climbers were caught up high during a major storm? Isn't part of the problem that once a storm moves in any sort of rescue effort is simply on hold until the weather improves?

You win the prize.

That was supposed to be a bit of a joke. I hope that guys toes heal up, that looks like a really lame deal.

Rochester (sp?) Posted back in the day. Fell off a peak in the Tetons as I recall.

28 people viewing this forum right now. Makes me think some news source has linked in to CC.com.

Awesome. Having splashed around in those falls on a hot summer days I always dreamed about about climbing it in winter. With it's southern exposure I never would have thought that it would actually form up. Nice work. Wish I could have been there!

It's in right now! BTW: Where are all the sick alpine TRs from the best conditions in a long while??

Damn dude that looks as good as it gets.

I'm guessing every big grotty north facing low elevation peak looks pretty much like that right now. Think lower half of Big Four, Hall Peak (Silverton Sickle is probably fat along with 100 other lines). Wish I could but every day there's something that gets in the way

Found this image on NW Hikers Lake 22 Headwall its 2600' tall!

Les MacDonald did numerous really cool climbs on Mt Shuksan during the 50's and early 60's as well. A 20 pitch climb on Lake Anne Butte, the Labor Day Wall on the summit pyramid and maybe most impressive of all a horseshoe traverse of Nooksack Tower, Nooksack Ridge and Jagged Ridge. Burly! He also climbed the Colehead Wall Direct with Hank Mather during the same time. I think some of that stuff was as hard as anything being done in the Cascades at the time. He's my hero.

correct. short ones. 1 each of #1, #2, #3 and #5 should suffice for everything. Or just a #2 and a #5. LAs can be nice too. I like the #5. Bring a baby angle too. There, 4 pins that should pretty much have you covered.

As driveable as it gets. Sounds like you can drive within a 1.5-2 hr walk of the peak.

You've exceeded the picture limit Justin!.....but to anyone interested NOW might be the time to go get some. The amount of ice you'll find could be questionable but you'll definitely be able to get there.

Nice....thats a great mountain for winter climbing and I don't think there are to many periods when the road is still almost driveable to the end. Might have to get in there...

Thats plenty close as I recall. Where you climbing?

Salish is an amazing climb. The rock quality is top notch and the scenery is just incredible. Definitely one of the top ?10 alpine rock climbs in Washington. "animals" ha! I don't think that adjective has been attached to my name before. Come on people, gene, offwhite, all you sprayers, post up! Nothing wrong with a little on topic content.

Errr.... no, at least not anytime soon. I hear the locals will let the air of your tires and deficate on the hood of your car if they hear any outsiders tinking away on a hammer. Though I always thought the arete/crows nest line on Squire Creek Wall looked so beautiful.... Lots of granite, gabbro and greenshist closer to home just screaming for someone to come out an violate.

There's a huge and healthy population of cougars in Washington. I've seen extactly one in 35 years and it fully intended to be see. While plenty of people see cougars (when allowed too) when was the last time someone found the remains of one? Large predators don't leave a lot of evidence behind it seems.

Fess up Billcoe. You've got a crate of them sitting in your basement.

I'm gonna bump this a couple times....