dberdinka

I'm headed to Zion next Wednesday.... Red Rocks is BLM land that will definitely close as well. A good part of climbing around Moab is federal land too. If everything does get shut down it will be curious to see how it's enforced. Whether it be soft in that you can still walk in or hard in that it gets you arrested. I'd think that in Zion you could still climb on The Watchman, the Three Marys or West Temple unmolested as they sit on the perifery of the park and are approached from town. Supposedly the road through the tunnel would be kept open which is where a lot of cragging is found. Though I could see them enforcing a closure there by not allowing any parking. Lots of sport climbing around St George as well including a sort of mini-"Red Rocks" at Snow Creek Canyon State Park that might entertain for a day or two. Best of luck.

If you plan on doing it anytime soon your pants will be wet though hopefully not from pee. FWIW I've always faced left?

I have not seen any 5/16" buttonheads in Squamish. Those are 1/4"s of which there are plenty as well as more than a few 3/16" buttonheads scattered about. Of the half-dozen 1/4"ers I've removed everyone has either come off with ridiculous ease (couple taps to a tuning fork) or quickly snapped off at the head. I would highly recommend not trusting rusty 1/4" buttonheads if you can help it. Greg Barnes at the ASCA claims (like you) that 5/16" are next to impossible to remove and are generally quite strong, not so much for the smaller sizes.

I had a 5mm but it was far to prone to tangles. Much happier with 6mm. I heard of some guys who essentially used a ball of twine as pull line for full rope raps in the Bugaboos, so I guess you could go far skinnier.

As is ... whatever the fuck...kind of gear that is you have wedged in that crack on bottom right.

Nice photos peeps. Here some original buttonheads from a belay on Humpty Dumpty. What those guys use to trust..... Placed in 1977 and removed 33 years later.

Amber

Wait! What? I thought it was determined that that was natural?

The wind was howling and the skys were threatening but the UTW was as dry as you could hope for on the last day of winter. By afternoon the LTW was pretty much dry as well. Very few people around...

Anyone been up there...today? Last year it good to go in March, this year seems like lots of snow in the foothills. Condition report much appreciated!

I can't read Chek either but I'm pretty sure I saw the words Smokin Hot in there. Cool photos.

Not to mention this TR either!

Thanks. I've had a fair bit of interest but everyone's had size 12 or size 8 feet?!

Bump before I eBay it. D.

The "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" series has a venerable tradition of front and back cover shots that make no sense...

Good point. That unfortunately might be pushing it. The binding are size N (normal). I measured the maximum welt-to-welt distance the other night and came up with some like 12.25"-12.5". A google search claims sole lengths of 11.375" to 13.375" fit the binding (and calls that size 8 - 10). I wear size 10 and there are 3 notches of adjustment left so they go bigger.....but I'm thinking not that big.

I have a brand new Metolius HalfDome haulbag I'm not going to use. Greuy, still with tags. Retails for $209 yours for $145. PM or e-mail dberdinkaATgmailDOTcom.

Silvretta 404s mounted on 177cm Hagan TX titanium skis. Skis are ultralight, 177cm in length with dimension of 92-69-80 and weight 1.1 kg each. Considering their size and weight they ski very well. Includes sticky purple Ascension skins and a pair of hard-to-find ski brakes which add a couple ounces but will impress the ladies. Bindings are size N (normal) and supposedly fit sole lengths of 11.375" - 13.375". All gear is very lightly used and in excellent condition. Ski bases are pristine. $230. Located in Bellingham. Buyer pays shipping and packaging costs. PM or e-mail dberdinkaATgmailDOTcom.

I've got Size Medium 404s in great shape mounted on a pair of Hagan ultralight AT skis in about a 170cm length in equally good shape. BD skins to fit. Lighest setup you're going to get with 404s. As I haven't thought about selling them until just now I'm not sure what I want for them but PM me if interested.

Climbaxe- based on their website - yes My neighbor is actually a machinist at SMC. I'll check it out.

Bump, because I'm still looking....

PM'd on the last Zipper Screamer.....

Hola amigos. Que pasa with you? So whats the best knot for tieing a static 6mm pull cord to a 10mm dynamic rope? Also.... Can anyone see any negatives to a 6mm Polyester Pull Cord? Imlay 6mm Pull Cord Absorbs way less water and polyester is more static than nylon. 4lb 1oz and $75.

Heading out this spring to do something stupid in a very remote part of the southwest. Looking for a half-dozen more baby angles for potential anchors in soft rock. If you have 1 or more you feel like parting with let me know. Looking to pay ~$5 a piece. PM or e-mail at dberdinka AT gmail DOT com. Thanks! Darin

Hey Sol. No doubt those guys are fully bad-ass and seem to make a greater effort than many to minimize the addition of bolts, but read that TR again while clearly brutally hard and runout... they still aided an existing route first they still bolted a free face variation (albeit a single bolt) they still scoped the top of the route by rapping in they still worked many pitches to get the redpoint You freed TRL last summer. If David Lama is proposing the same style as was used to establish the free-TRL why is one OK but the other isn't? Being that my bigwall experiences are relegated to standing to aiders I'm pretty luke warm to the whole bolted-face variation. My point is that David Lamas current plan is not outside what seem to be accepted norms for bigwall free climbing, yet he's being held to a different standard than everyone else.