layton

Old school army packs rode high. Or just don't put the waist belt on...the load's gonna be in the same place to begin with. Good luck Kat!

camera or wayne or both froze at the top damnit

There were bail pickets, pins, and screws up the 1st 3rd of the face. This has GOT to be one of the most bailed off of winter alpine climb. I've bailed before, so has wayne, and most of the TR's are of people bailing!

I'd like to stress that this climb is a lot harder than you think after reading the guidebook, and would be really hard to bail off past the middle step. Bring some rock gear (1-2blades/4 cams), we used it, as the guidebook doesn't recommend it. We used 4 screws total. Pickets are your friend, bring at least 4. The log crossing is now a bridge so if you can't find it... Also, don't bring snowshoes or skiis. The hike in is short (1.5hours) and if you're postholing, just imagine how shitty the climb's gonna be. Conditions for this face need to be perfect. It is the main dump for the ENTIRE face. Wayne and I got fucking pounded by "spindrift" that poured onto us like a fire hose at times. I would highly recommend doing this route mostly in the dark, and on an overcast day. The descent around the opposite way Nelson reccomends is probably quickey, but a bit tricky. Traverse high as possible as a general rule. We encountered loaded slopes and some steep "fuck" snow that was up to our waist on steep slopes above nasty cliffs. If snow conditions were better on the "hike" out (we were soling 5.4 rock) it would go very quickly.

It's called gore-tex ProShell. Just another expensive toy that any real hardman wouldn't need. I was in the N.Cascaes, not hood on sunday.

Who is teaching that class these days?

Gee, I wonder if this is the person who chopped the anchors

Well 1st of all, speak ENGLISH. I can only assume it's your native tongue and you're a honkey, so if you can't make a drop of sense, then you probably don't have the mental fortitude to SUCK IT UP AND DON'T BE A PUSSY.

I like the luna bar quote Link

I'm testing the new gore-tex and I actually like it. Climbed w/it all day in wet sloppy snow, and the jacket wasn't even damp. The best part was when the sun occasionally peaked out and roasted, I didn't overheat any more than w/just my driclime by itself.

I'd say game over with the warm weather headed our way, we barely scraped by...the route calved after we returned to the base. Pics later

You could apply your degree to cleaning the boots and vans at AAI.

For $120?

oh...I'm not a doctor.

Does your parole officer know about this?

Best boulderin TR EVER!

Your soulmate Dru

Found it, the perfect jacket. Arc'tyrx Fission LT...a shitload more insulation + a windstopper shell, 19 oz weight. ~300 fucking dollars new, or $120 on ebay! Sold

I was actually thinking of buying a waterproof insulated jackets. Heavier than a med weight jacket, but lighter than a lightweight pull-over and a rain shell combined. Thoughts? Use would be for non-winter alpine rock.

Patagonia DAS parka has more insulation, and weighs less. Gotta be an in between a ~12.5oz jacket and a 26.5 oz jacket?

I loved you in Goonies! I have a Baby Ruth if you want some candy.

uhhhhh, they don't make jackets anymore. NEXT?

Does GoLite not make jackets anymore? Sad.

Can anyone reccomend a midweight synthetic jacket? I love my micropuff jacket by patagonia (2,7oz Polarguard Delta), but I jacket somewhere between that and a DAS Parka (6oz Polargaurd Delta torso, 4 oz arms/hood). I was using a Mountain Hardwear Chucgach Jacket, but since I bought it 8 years ago, there have gotta be lighter weight jackets that offer = warmth. The montbell thermawrap UL parka looks good, but offers the same insulation fill as the patagonia micropuff, so I'm doubtful if it's a step up in warmth.