layton

That's really weird. Have you ever had it x-rayed or had blood tests done with that in mind? Just curious.

you're in canada, right? I'm actually designing a flyer regarding impingement syndrome as we speak: here's the rough draft: (clinic logo) (short bio) Shoulder Impingement Syndrome (insert image of shoulder complex) What is it? Shoulder impingement syndrome is one of the most common injuries climbers suffer, second only to a rotator cuff tear. However, impingement syndrome is often time the underlying cause for a rotator cuff tear. Impingement syndrome is an overuse injury resulting from a postural dysfunction in the shoulder complex. An extremely important rotator cuff muscle and shoulder stabilizer, the supraspinatus muscle, passes under what is called the sub-acromial space. In abnormal shoulder movement the supraspinatus becomes repeatedly pinched and inflamed, leading to pain, inflammation, and possible rupture. You can even experience symptoms such as pain, tingling, and numbness in your hands and fingers due to impingement syndrome. What causes it? The complex movement that occurs when you raise your arms overhead involves synchronous movement between your humerous, scapula, clavicle, and neck is called scapulo-humeral rhythm. The timing must be just right to rotate your humerous under your scapula so as not to impinge the supraspinatus muscle. If one of many muscles that is involved in this movement patter is unbalanced, weak, tight, inflamed, overused, if there is dysfunction in the joints of your shoulder and neck, or if the movement pattern of shoulder has been replaced by a learned biomechanically incorrect pattern, impingement can occur. How to fix it? The key is to “re-wire” your shoulder muscles to “fire” in the correct order. Weak muscles need to be strengthened, tight muscles need to be stretched, inflammation needs to be reduced, posture needs to be corrected, and proper movement patterns need to be re-learned. Your shoulder must be re-educated! Even correcting poor climbing technique can drastically help your shoulder pain. In general, your scapular stabilizers need strengthening, and your large torque producing muscles need to be stretched and relaxed. Inflamed muscles in your rotator cuff may have trigger points that need to be reduced. And the joints of your shoulder and neck need to be mobilized. Usually there is not a single cause, and rehabilitation takes some time. It took a long time for this condition to occur, so it stands to follow that it can’t be fixed overnight. Home stretching and strengthening exercises, biofeedback, soft-tissue therapy, prorioceptive training, taping, cold-laser, nutritional supplements, and manipulation of the neck and shoulder are all excellent conservative treatments. Unless you’ve totally ruptured your tendon, surgery is a last resort. Shoulder impingement syndrome as well as many other injuries of the shoulder are excellent candidates for chiropractic care. (image of overhead activities) (image of exercises)

make an "X" across the underside of your knuckle with a thinner strip of tape and have the tails of that wrap around above and below your knuckle.

I find this highly improbable

No it's only for support until your fingers are healed. Here's what Google Images shows

Oh, and in the meantime, tape your fingers while you climb (should've been my 1st comment)

Sounds like tendinitis. You're body is reacting to the huge demands you're putting on your poor fingers. Some folks can get away with it...some folks can't. I'd say work on your technique, especially your footwork, and keeping a looser grip. For now, avoid crimping and pockets with those finger. Also, warm up! Not only on easy routes, but maybe go for a little job or something before. I'd also say that your forearms need a little training, so work on wrist curls - so your wrist can do more of the work than your fingers. Some rehab exercises besides wrist curls would be reverse wrist curls, and finger extensions. To do finger extensions, find a rubberband with enough tension and put it around your fingers. Now open up your hand. Try for like 20-30 or so reps 2x/day. Also, ice ice ice ice. 20min on 60 off. AVOID NSAIDS like ibuprofen because they weaken the damaged tendons/ligs even though they decrease inflammation. Bromelain is the best anti-inflammatory w/o side-effects. Just try and take it on an empty stomch since it's also a digestion aid and you'd waste it helping to digest your dinner. Sorry 'bout the finger issue. You'll pull through!

want me to delete my post to re-hide your status as the President?

it's not the website, it's the contacts on the website...so far none work. anyway, I hear underworld is the prez.

I'm trying to email BeoAlps, but have been unsuccessful. Anyone have their contact info to PM me? I'd really appreciate it! Thanks, Mike

Fred asked me to post this. Uncut email from the man hisself: plan to go to Sawback Range unclimbed granite peaks and routes LOOKS LIKE A MINI BUGABOOS TAT IS UNVISITED AND GREAT CLIMBS LOCATED NEAR STIKINE RIVER NORTH AND EAST OF DEVILS THUMB SHOULD BE REASONABLE WEATER AS IT IS IN LEE OF THE BIG ICEFIELDS PLAN ON A FUN TRIP WOULD LIKE TO GO ABOUT JUNE 19 AND FLY TO WRANGELL ALASKA. BACK IN ABOUT TEN DAYS CONTACT BECKEY AT

i can't wait until i have money to buy things

Hey Scott, no I never did find it! But i'm sure there will be another rainy day at the pass where goat wall will be the bailure of choice! Actually, Sisyphus is just as much fun as a lot of more alpine WAPass rock routes! Tons o' Fun and AWESOME moves. I'm psyched for Burdo's new guide.

How about come to my grand opening at the end of the month when I can actually treat you guys?

I don't think it's a good idea for me to even look at those x-rays for liability issues, otherwise I'm responsible for everything on the film. Sorry. In general, you need to stay on top of your scaphoid because it is really prone to avascular necrosis.

Muffy, wear that night splint, it should help. And give those orthodics a whirl...your feet might be too far gone for any permenant rehab. But yeah, i really don't have any background on what your deal is so fill me in, eh?

The best insole would be a pair of custom superfeet orthotics. It depends on what's wrong with you feet. If your feet are floppy and pronate too much, then a stiff one with a high arch. If you have a normal arch and solid feet, but need the shock...a good squishy one from fred meyer should do the trick.

I'm raisin' my Pabst to ya Kurt!

come see me after june 23rd!

This isn't the 1st study that's come to the same conclusions. But as far as research goes, yeah it's all in the quality and the quantities of the studies

That's very useful for those with degenerative spondy's and stenosis. I'm assuming everyone on the board besides maybe Fred is in the clear for that. And did you see the punch line. Conservative vs. Surgery were the same results after one year. Hmmmmm.

Whew! What a thread. Yeah, what he said. I assume folks know about corticosteriods and tissue weakening too. Hard call sometimes.

Holy shit I almost snotted Old English out my nose! I want in. Oh, I need a mattress too. Can I have it when you are done?

Hey Colin, once again, nice job. You should give yourself an "atta boy"!!!! It was cool to actually hang with you, since we've only just said hello. My friend thinks you are cute btw.

Muchas Gracias for the party y'all. My 1st Seattle social encounter. and I kept my pants on.