layton

I wrote this. It's still a rough draft, I need to take lots of photos to add, and swap out the ones I borrowed. PM me if you have a comment. This is not for sale or to be copied or reproduced in any way. Thanks Click Me

I wrote this. It's still a rough draft, I need to take lots of photos to add, and swap out the ones I borrowed. PM me if you have a comment. This is not for sale or to be copied or reproduced in any way. Thanks Click Me

Sorry Blake didn't see you post this. Q? Why do you tie the knot in the skinny rope, instead of the fat rope just above the knot? I sometimes will use tape to make the hole smaller in the rap station so the know doesn't migrate up through the anchor.

Tim I use this exact system sometimes. Check out my rappelling set-up to keep you safe. The only situation I use this system in is when the climbing would be too hard, or cumbersome to use double or twin ropes. I use a 6mm rap line. I've actually started using an 8mm dynamic rap line recently since I've had ropes stuck where I've had to lead up with the 6mm (gulp!). One way to keep the snarl factor down is to stuff the 6mm into a stuff sack (with the end tied to the stuff sack). This zips the rope right out, although re-stuffing it sucks balls. To make sure you don't die if the 6mm get the chop while rappelling, try this....(hard to explain). This requires you to always pull the 6mm first. 1. Put the knot so the skinny rope is on the end you pull and UNDER the anchor (kind of like when you sport climb the rope should be clipped so the rope goes under the biner). 2. Since there will be rope slippage, make sure that the knot won't sneak it's way into the anchor and get jammed. 3. Just above the rope connection knot but below the anchor(flieshmans knot works well ...i.e a re-woved fig-8) tie an overhand on a bight in the fat rope. 4. Clip a biner into the overhand on a bight, and clip the fat rope on the other side of the anchor. It's hard to visualize, but if the skinny rope gets the chop while your rapping down, you'll now be fully on the fat rope as if doing a fixed single rope rappel since the overhand with the biner will be cinched around the anchor. 5. You must pull the skinny rope (sucks) in this situation. The plus side is the fat rope has less chance getting stuck tumbling down, but if it does...guess what you have to lead on - Hope that helps, Mike

You just called your mom a cheap whore!

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Hell yeah boys! Looks like an awesome day out on the mountain. Extra style points for the approach blue jeans.

Current favorite: Jacksonville City Nights

Nice job on Perry's Blake!

That's a hard one! I'd avoid ANY downhill and pavement. The pack is probably ok, I'd keep the runs to light outtings. Pain is your guide - if it hurts, stop and call a cab

Wow, I can't believe ice is still in! Nice john, way to be!

My heroes have always been cowboys

Isis by Bob Dylan

The Mormon influence in SLC is unnoticeable except for the strange liquor laws. I personally enjoy shitty 3/2 beer so I'm in heaven. I'm going to go climb on perfect granite after work 10 miles from my house...and enjoy a 3/2 beer. The bars are extra fun since obviously everyone there shares one thing in common. Places like the Tavernacle get really rowdy! I f'in love living here. I love the mormon influence cuz it keeps this place from being another trendy expensive crowded mountain town. If this city was in Colorado or Washington it would be ruined. The ONLY downside is the summer heat..which Moab would be 10 times worse. Luckily there's lots of shady alpine places to climb in the summer not far from town. Keep Utah Lame!

I just think it would be too hot most of the year for moab - slc has more variety and moab is close enough. desert splitter and towers get old. but it would be f'in awesome during the tolerable temp months!

Hell yeah they are! I'm dating one right now

PNW people are extremely sensitive and touchy, but very polite in person. They are highly passive aggressive, and have a hard time expressing opinions not followed by the herd. But unlike other people who follow the opinion of their peers, PNW'ers don't have the balls to back up their opinions if confronted by someone who challenges them. Like people from Colorado, PNW think they are intellectually better and also more progessive than the rest of the world. Which makes PNW'er the smuggest people on earth. So to sum it up: PNW'ers are smug and spineless. If we were a country, we'd be France. East Coasters are smug with balls. They would be Germany Midwesterners and Southerns are down to earth with balls- They would be, well...the United States Who's not smug (down to earth) without balls? i.e. Mexicans

That gets my vote as the best and most productive SW climbing trip ever

The MIGHTY WHITEY! Damn boy, try going outside and getting some sun..i need sunglasses to look at that shit

I'm with John on this one! Then again my mind is tainted with all the mormon brainwashing and heck.

Slipstream? When did 900+M, Grade VI ice climbs with significant objective hazard become moderate? Sorry, what I mean by moderate was the technical grade, not the commitment. This point of my thread was to draw out the BIG or short classic lines that you're always like, "man one day I'd like to climb that" with SOME glimmer of hope. Why did I choose WI5+ or 5.11b/c as "moderate" Well let me tell you.... 1st, unless you are just a plain shitty climber, within a relatively short period of time if you applied yourself, you should be able to at least get up a pitch of that grade. If you've been climbing for a while and can't even toprope a mid-5.11 even by french freeing, then you would fall into a category of what I would chose to call "Easy" or "Beginner". I thought capping it at those grades would provide a cool list of climbs that are humanly possilbe - thus moderate. I guess there should have been a better definition (there was actually I gave the grades), or a "what's above moderate". So this is my scale, take it or leave it. Easy (i.e. almost anyone could do this) 0th class to 5.8 WI0 to WI3 AO-A0+ M1-M3 Moderate (you can do this at SOME point by training) 5.9-5.11 WI4-5+ A1-3 M4-M6+ Hard (you may never do this...and I'm being EASY on the rock grade here!) 5.11+ - 5.15 WI6-7+ A4-A5 M7-M(whatever it goes to now) In other words I was trying not to have the Technical grade be the limiting factor - because if you can't climb it...well you can't climb it! In other words, I'll NEVER be able to climb 5.13. So if someone posted a big ol 5.13 line that was just the most beautiful thing ever - it wouldn't matter cuz I'd never get up it no matter what. But a super frigging long 5.11 with maybe some WI5 on it? Well I know that I can occasionally get up 5.11 and I sometime have the balls for a WI5 - so I can make that my "Dream Climb" to do one day -because it would be humanly possible. Now if I could just watlz right up it...well then it wouldn't be moderate now would it? It would be easy! Now post some fucking climbs you quibbling bunch of whiney pussies! Jesus f'in christ guys, if you think my scale was was to high - y'all suck. Shit, I admit that I don't climb 5.11b/c very well - but I can get up it and you should be able to too. Open up a guidebook and turn to the 5.11 and above pages in the back. There's a lot of those aren't there! Well, check your ego cuz 5.11- isn't very hard anymore.

This probably has been done countless times, but let's hear what you think (you don't even have to have climbed it) the coolest moderate climbs on earth are? Single pitch to full scale VII's under 5.11c/d and WI5+ I'll start: Lotus Flower Tower Slipstream The Nose Also, let's focus on posting about some really cool climbs instead of degenerating in to an opinion fest as to what moderate is, or if I'm thinly veiling an attempt to show how hard I may or may not climb to define moderate as such. I'll also leave the commitment grade and sustained nature of the climb open to common sense. (i.e. a grade VII 5.11+,WI5 that is sustained the whole way is OBVIOUSLY not moderate, a grade VII WI3 just may be moderate, a single pitch of WI5+ or 5.11c is indeed moderate, and a grade VI 5.10- WI3/4 is within the scope of the modern climber willing to train and commit if he/she so desires). Easy=Anyone could probably get up it in reasonable shape Moderate=A climber who is mildly talented or applies him/herself could climb this Hard=You are either really gifted or trained like a mother'fa and have no life

Isn't that just a regular NPR station?

I'm a bit slow on the technology thingy here, but I just discovered that I can listen to KEXP Seattle on itunes. SO I'm rockin out to the blues hour in sunny slc on this sunday morning. What are some really good radio stations? Also, does anyone really like alt country/rock/blues -i.e. rock with a lil bit of honky-tonk? (Gram Parsons, Stones, Dylan, Knopfler, Krauss, Bragg, Springstien, Ryan Adams , etc..?) Because I need some new suggestions.

The peroneus longus muscle is the culprit, and it acts as a foot everter, an important prime mover in foot pronation. My guess is that you somehow threw off your normal foot biomechanics, and the muscle had to do double duty to stabilze you foot - most likely because your boots were too tight or rigid in the sole. When a muscle has to isometrically contract or eccentrically contract, it can get real sore. Loosen up your boots or find a more flexible pair.