layton

pm's sent. I'm in the whoring stage of publication, so I'm trying to get some fancy well known climbers and / or authors to write a little blurb saying it's the best thing under the sun. -Mike

and care to send my their contact info? I'm trying to get a book published and need reviews!!! Thanks, Mike

that's so 2002

Fruit n' vegi roll-ups: liquify a bunch of fruit and leafy greens. add a little bit of sugar and salt. pour into thin layer on a coated cookie sheet and bake at 150 degrees with the oven door open for a while.

Here's another recipe: Homemade Luna Bars: 6 cups of high energy granola, nuts, fruit, and or trail-mix One package of mashmallows Omega-3 margarine spread A few tablespoons of powdered milk Make your standard rice-krispie treat recipe, and when it's cooled, back over it with your car a few times to get rid of the air. If someone can think (and test) a better glue than marshmallows, let me know please.

Dry: 24 oz of gelatin (try less) 2 cups sports drink (I used accelerade) 2 packets of electrolyte drink mix a lot of salt one packet of green and one packet of blue dried fruit/vegetable superfood powder Wet: 2 cups brown rice sryup 4 cups mixture of green and blue superfood from Bolthouse Farms (also can use Naked or Odwalla) 4 tbs olive oil (or flax seed) 2 bottles of 5-Hour Energy Drink Mix everything, bring to a slow boil stirring constantly. Pour into a thick layer in a glass baking dish coated with olive oil PAM. Put in your fridge, wait, and cut into blocks.

I'm making my own energy gummies and they turned out rather awesome (rainy day today). But, the recipe I used called for a lot of gelatin, which has little calories and isn't as "gummy" as I'd hoped. Anyone in the food sciences? Pectin? Syrup solids? Carnuba wax? Looking at the ingredients in Shot Blocks and Sharkies made me ask. And if anyone knows of a great alternative and where to get it, lemme know! I'll post my recipe if you do.

can you even get grivel stuff anymore?

nice! maybe nick (skyclimb) and I saw you there, we just got back ourselves (did fiddler, triassic and woman of mtn dreams). Love the RR!

arctyrx has a little yellow rubberband you girth hitch a bend gate biner onto your gear loop. never ever had an issue and it leaves my worries to actually getting the goddamn screw into the ice.

no I'm not writting one - but I hope someone will! I've had B.D. express screws for about 10 years now and I know there are more choices out there including a newly designed BD screw. What's good out there? My screws are getting old

thanks!

well shit, looks like chris and chuck ($125 - WTF!), have it covered. sweet, that saves me a lot of effort. nevermind...

I just finished my "little" book - actually its rather hefty now. Anyway, what I have missing is a chapter on big wall and AID climbing tips, tricks, and techniques. I'm not looking for a "how to" chapter, but seasoned advice on the gear that's out there (I'd like a complete gear review from Pro to haul bags to food, to tweaking gear, etc), creative gear placement in clean and nailing placements, new wave gear placements, bivying tips, hauling tips, cleaning tips, and anything else that's specific to big wall and aid climbing. I would like as many photos as possible too. I've already written about 150+ pages and have taken 600 photos. We can talk $$ if and when it gets published. If it doesn't get published, consider it a community service project. I'd love to have a few people in on this as AID climbing seems to have more than it's fair share of tricks - and I don't know much about it. send an email to michael_layton at hot mail dot com if you're interested. Thanks!

Anyone got a non-copyrighted pic of a Bachar ladder, or can get one? Much appreciated!

it's a better spring route as the route on the face is a giant funnel

What he said. What's more slippery - chalk or oil? Are there better alternatives while climbing? Sawdust? Charcoal? Silica powder?

Looking for someone to pimp my wares. Jason? Any advice on good/bad ones (Falcon,Mountaineers,Sharp End,??) Thanks -Mike

Anyone wanna do this when it comes in? I'm in SLC so I'd have to meet there.

I still wonder if those caves connect thru the mountain?

all you newbies won't remember, TRASK, -, Capt Caveman, Erik, Dwayner, ... so many gone. so sad

I got a $600 tent there for $20 about 10 years ago! Wait, maybe I just forgot to return it. Either way, it's worth it.

Wheeler Ibex: Nose Shadow 5.12c III

Trip: Wheeler Peak, NV. NE Face. FA "Siens et de la Biere" IV 5.9 R/X Layton/Waters Date: 9/20/2008 Trip Report: James Garret, Brian Waters, and I drove to bumf@ck Nevada, next to the Utah border in the extremely remote West Desert to check out the North East Face of Mount Wheeler. James had put up the NE Couloir which is supposedly a great late spring/ early summer alpine ice route (it was still "in"). Unfortunately, Jame was recovering from a ruptured Achilles tendon, so he was there for moral support. The NE face of Wheeler is 1800 feet tall, mostly vertical, and composed of bullet hard and super chossy (at the same time) Quartzite. This made it incredibly loose (loosest shit I've ever seen) and devoid of cracks. The only route up the face is called "stella by starlight" and was put up in a two day solo effort by Wade Mills in 1977. Robbins, Choinard, and a party in the 50's made have also climbed this same route. This route is on the left side of the face and follows gullies and ramps, and was done during mixed conditions which may have helped glue the face together and allow for better protection. We, however, were dumb enough to try and force a new line up the center steepest (overhanging) part of the face in Summer conditions. Our line started out well, albiet run-out and scary, but then nose dived into a rising traverse almost across the entire right side of the face! We kept looking for a way up, but were pretty well screwed without bolts to put in. The only way to make this go would be to do it in winter/spring conditions with some botls, or in summer with a very small rack and a shit ton of bolts, bits , and batteries. Since we weren't down with that and it wasn't winter, we did what we could to finally find a weakness up after traversing a ton. The traversing pitches were horrifically loose and awful, and finding gear for even the sketchiest belay took at least 45 minutes per pitch. It was freezing ass cold, very very windy, we were climbing between 11 and 13,000 feet, and it threatened rain all day- making the climb one of the more unpleasant days in the hills I can remember. Good times!!! For those interested, the road is closed until June...but the area offers some of the best spring and summer corn skiing imaginable. The hiking route to the top looks mind-numbingly boring. We weren't back in camp until dark. The next day we made up for it by climbing at Ibex. Expect a new guidebook for Ibex and the climbs in the West Desert in a few months. Ibex offers some of the best roped climbing (and bouldering) anywhere in North America. The golfing on the hardpan is bar none as well. Pics below. I'll add Brian's if he gets around to it.

Yeah, it's the big ridge just L. of the NE couloir. I don't have my guidebook handy (sadly it's packed for now). Was that ridge unclimbed prior to Erik and I? Very confusing part of the mountain for sure.