layton

Please go do N.Face Central rib of truimph and post a TR.

Anyone done the 19p climb on Davis, or any of the other routes? This is something I always look at while driving hwy 20, and guidebook flippin'.

Did Yak Check w/Necro yesterday. Awesome route! Dru provided some fantastic beta on Bivouc.com which was a great resource for some ways of speeding up the route. I agree w/everything Dru posted on his "opinionated description" execept for: 1. The approach can take a little longer than 20min if you've never been there before, and is legnthened by parking at the outhouses. It is a miserable walk down the hwy, smelling of emptied cans of urine, and drainage from the restroom w/semis roaring past. There is room to park right where the On Ramp splits from the highway (those coming from hope should drive up the shoulder, i think the next exit to turn around is miles further) 2.Dru mentions soloing to the base of the tower (after the traverse). We didn't do this. We simuled below the traverse, did a 5.6/5.7 pitch up the lower corner, then traversed to below the route past one anchor (rope drag). 3.From the slung block in the chimney lower down, it is one pitch to the top of what Dru calls pitch 5. This combines Dru's pitch 3+4. Dru says from the top of lunch ledge it is 10 feet higher to bolts and that this pitch is 50m, when in fact this pitch (p3.) is only 30-40m and then next is much shorter. Fine w/a 60m rope. 4.On Dru's p.6, he says move left from the belay and climb a left facing corner for 10m before stepping around the arete. You move RIGHT from the belay and don't climb the corner, stepping right around the arete about the same elevation as the belay. Much easier, good solid holds and jams. 5.The last 4th class pitch can prove catastrophic if the leader falls. You don't have to go straight up to the trees. You can go about 30m then head left into a break in the trees. No bushwacking is involved through the trees. There is another pitch of 3rd to the top from here. Thank you Dru for the helpful beta, you were right about the grades, and your ascent/desent time was close to ours. The "cave" beta was great, and although probably more technically harder, saves you from a shitty belay and a grovel. Your gear beta was good to, although most of the cracks are pretty wide. I'd be sure to bring two #2 camalots, especially for the roof traverse. I thought that traverse was much more pumpy than the one on Snake. As for when to go, it is S.Facing so the evil sun will try and kill you. A good way to do it (like we did) is to start early when the forecast calls for morning cloud clearing by afternoon. It was fun climbing in the mist, and by the time the solar devil beat down upon us, we were on top. Someone left a dog at the base w/a puny water dish (looked like a torn plastic bag). The dog was very very scared when we came by, and was barking like crazy and growling. Poor guy! We gave him the rest of our water, but it looked like his/her masters were 1/2 way up, and the sun was in it's most violent stage of torture at this time. I know dogs are animals and animals come from the woods, etc..., but they depend on you and feel neglected just like children would. I think it was cruel to leave your dog at the base of this route, but I'm sure your opionion is much different. [ 08-22-2002, 01:09 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Heard it might be good, so I got a job scoopin' salad and slicing horsecock at the deli. The approach is pretty easy. Just park in the employee lot way in the back and head for the center strip. Enter the building and go upstairs. Gear: Mormon Missionary outfit, smock, hat, nametag. This is one TR where water is not acceptable to drink while on route. There are small flows coming out of fountains inside the cafe. The actual trip consisted of bending over and smiling out of my asshole while answering to many exec's and putting up with the devil (customers) for $7/hour. Okay for the approach, not so good for the trip. My partner(s) sucked on this one, and my dignity was forced down to the level of the worm. It blows, don't go there. Highly unreccomended. I bailed early on this particular outting. 2 day minimum to 2 weeks notice. I went for fast and light(pay). BTW: they don't persicute shoplifting there very strictly, so have at it. Lots of booty on this one (but probably underage). [ 08-21-2002, 11:35 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Way to go Coley and Erik! Ya'll scored some nice plums. What did you think of the climbs?? I am jealous! -Mike

Best one I ever saw was on Mt.Gimley in the Valhallas. Starts out, "Came here to die...life sucks..." Next entry, "looking for bob, hope he's okay, we love you" Next entry: Sherrif's Office, "haven't seen bob" Anyway, my party never found "bob" or his wallet anywhere the base. Guess he didn't need it or his gear. Damn.

My life will end..... ....... .......... ............now.

I was sent home once b/c they were working up there and the guy at the gate wouldn't let me pass. CALL BEFORE YOU GO!!! See Beckey guide for the #. Also Beckey's driving direction are confusing. Turn left just before the road that crossed HWY 20. Don't go back over hwy 20, instead, follow your nose to the gate-only .25-.75 miles from the road. Good luck on the logging road. Bring a bike for God's sake.

They resoled my Mythos and Boulders. They did a great job, and quick too! Dave Page blows .

quote: Just led every pitch on DNB of Bear Mt. Seriously? Wow! Nice job!

Haven't had time to look up all the routes mentioned. I've always paused while guide book flippin' at the neswatch notch route. No photo, and in McLane's guide, it is devoid of the "ice" mentioned in beckey. I've got an old xerox for grimface, I think it's a don serl article. Saw some cool articles on James Turner, Judge Howay, Arctic Wing on Slesse, and others. Our CAJ selection is very poor at the WWU library. I'm at the public library right now waiting for my Dad to finish his research. Maybe they've got some info. Wait, I checked em out. Nice job on Plinth! More homework...I may have a job soon so I may have to audit this class. [ 08-13-2002, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Check bivouac for Urquhart, looks blah blah from the West. I assume there is a steeper aspect? Beckey's guide says Northgraves is "fuckin' heinous dude." HAve you done it? I have no idea what LBD mean, "lower buttress direct"? Isn't that in the guide. I've had my eye on Illusion due to Beckey's guide. Howay is a big scary moutain with my name all over that mother, and epic too. Blanshard looks pretty, kinda like a chair peak. The needle looked neat. Reh looked like a nice jaunt. I also discovered stone rabbit from that dude Kobus's website. That dude is hard-core, and a good photographer. Scuzzy looked neat too Dru. See I'm in "school", I did my "homework". Any more assignments?

It doesn't exist. A huge practical joke set up by a joint venture between Beckey, USGS, and Green Trails. What you see from Stuart is an Optical Illusion. If you try and take that trail from the car, there is a pit w/bodies, skeletons, etc..

The first 4 pitches are fine. The 4th class simul area isn't "fun" simul-climbing, a'la Slesse. Takes 10 minutes so no big deal. The fin is good rock. The base of the fin totally blows, however. The worst rock appears on the other side of the notch on top of the fin. Horrid. BUT, most of the rock is just fine, and talk about a cool situation. My TR may suggest I didn't like the route due to the rock. This wasn't the point I was trying to make. There is bad rock, but the coolness of the whole bag put together makes the Backbone a sweet friggin climb. There are many route with much better rock. Also the grades are WAY soft (except for the O.W.). You gotta figure out the fin your yourself. Every guidebook shows a different way, Nelson's being the hardest. We went 1/2 way up the ramp below the fin. Then up on disgusting rock to a ledge. Next pitch went up and right to awesome twin cracks and a layback/jamcrack to the top of another ledge(Nelson has this as the previous pitch...one missing). Next pitch goes up a steeper crack w/an easy layback flake near the start. Either find a belay somewhere on this pitch or go right (not left into the notch...bad rock, run-out, and hard climbing) into some overlaps until you crest the fin.

quote: Have a good man. Uh....no thanks.

Did it w/Necronomicon yesterday. Met FixedPin and IanE(sp) near the top. We left from the car, they camped up high. Short approach. Amazing climbing, lots of little cruxes. Kinda like a really really long 2nd coulior on Dragontail. Fixed pin and party took a different finish than we did (off route). Haha. Actually, it's all about the same (unless you get screwed). As for the D- rating, i'm sure it's very conditions dependant, but it had me worked at the end way more than some of his D+, or TD routes. The best part is the vomit inducing 1st view of the mountain when you drive up. You're like, "Oh my God there's no way I can do that." The climb gets less and less steep as you approach it. It is the weirdest "aspect changer" I've ever seen. Conditions were soft snow w/neve, even one water ice belay. It was like, WTF, screws? We didn't bring pickets, maybe they'd help? Rather have tiny rock gear that holds more. Bring route/desent info along especially photos lest you be fucked. Bring rock gear, esp pins. I know i said I like to give beta so I get it back, but this one is a little better w/some mystery. Execpt I must say, don't get fucked on the desent. And don't underestimate the route. I thought about soloing it. No way. The actual coulior maybe, but not the approach or desent. I figured 2 hours max in the coulior, 3 hours on the approach (correct), 3 hours down. Double that (approx 15 hours car to car). Bring 2 ropes or a rap line. We climbed on one 8.0mm rope folded in half and simuled the whole thing. But, we'd have a much more interesting desent. The desent is rather, uh.....FUN! Thank you Fixed Pin and IanE(sp?) for teaming up with us on the desent. That sped shit up, eh? Ever part of yesterday was fun, full-on, and just a great day in the moutains. The drive home was hell unleashed. I'll try n' get photos. It's really neat lookin'. We saw a party heading to the Joffre Coulior. Looked like fun, but harder to get into. Did you guys get off by dark? Did you die? oh yeah, one more thing... ...NECRO CLIMBED IT W/A BROKEN RIB!!!!!! HARDMAN! Seriously. That's some pain tolerance for ya.

quote: *Hey Layton, what gives? Why be critical of someone elses fine report? Reread some of yours, notice any excessive details/spray? You chestbeaters who race home after your outings so you can "splatter" all about it on this site crack me up. Do you even make it in the house before you start spraying? Headspace, Hey, that's not nice I wasn't attacking you or Shane. It was just the most detailed TR i've ever seen and I felt compelled to give it a little jab in the ribs. You can't judge folks here cuz you can't see em, hear their tone of voice, or read their body language. As for spraying. I have given good beta in most of my TRs admist the spray. The only reason I post TRs is to give beta, hoping when I need beta, someone will return the favor. Plus they're fun to read and fun to write. Nice job Shane, thank for adding to the beta stockpile for folks to research. [ 08-09-2002, 02:06 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Had another climbing partner bail for a 4 day blitz. If you are his client on Shuksun right now, I hope you tell everyone at the office what a fucking hero you are for that photo of you and shucksun on your little office desk next to your stupid wife and ugly kids!

could you be a little more detailed?

I will only wear the Mythos until they are discontinued and then I'll stockpile. If any la sportiva reps are watching, don't fuck these shoes up like you (and every other company)do with everything else.

What's the dumbest thing you've ever heard while climbing, or climbing related, and what did you do? The one about if the "clips" were in place on prussik is a really good one. Mine is from an emloyee at Der Sportsman in Leavenworth in late June/Early July... "Drury Falls may be in". Der moron. I said thanks and held back the smackdown. On the Grand Teton a guy wanted my opionion if his rack of three sporto quick draws and two cams was enough. This should prove to be pretty funny, What do you guys have?

BASTARDS! Life may not be fair, but Alpine Climbing sure loves to rub salt in the wound. Not a good sport for folks who can only have things go there way. Good way to stock up on Karma for the next life. Did they like the climb they did on Ashlu? Two approaches, one broken partner, and more dirt and shrub grabbing than I can face. Who did it, and where do they live... ...not that I was planning on doing Ashlu or a new route on it or anything.

Forrest, Did you see or hear if the party (another Mike)to your left on Liberty Crack got up ok? I thought about you guys as I hiked out and your party and the lib crack party weren't very high and the weather loooked worsening. Nice Job!

So, what routes or mountains that are "good" are missing from McLanes guide? I know there are some like winter routes on the Cheam Peaks, Whitecap Pk, and Rideout/Payne cirque. Any more cool ice-capades. What about rock-climbs? As if my list isn't big enough...

Anyone done it? So how is it? I was gonna do it, but it was clogged w/folks.