layton

You'll need that lil' device if climbing w/necronomicon. Keeps the bears out too.

I added prices. PM me instead of email and don't send a check until I confirm I still have it. I've deleted everthing that is out the door or in the mail. I'm leaving Oct 1st so if you're gonna buy something, try n' email before that, if not I'll deal w/it when I get back. Thanks for all the prompt payment and postive feedback. Lots more for sale here. Shipping is $3.50 for small stuff, $5 for bigger stuff (more for the pack and skiis). PM me if you don't think a price is fair if you want it or not. Mike Layton 1304 Bay St #3 Bellingham, WA 98225 360-756-6927

Maybe? I'll let you know when I do em both. How long did it take you from the end of the drivable road to the N.side of clarke? For that matter, how long did the desent off clarke to Nursery pass take you? Any time beta would be nice concidering daylight hours are short now. Still need a partner. [ 09-20-2002, 12:02 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Need partner for sunny forecast. I would be into: 1.Springbok Arete in the Anderson River Range (no slog 2 hrs) 2.Vienesse- Direktissima (short slog 4-hrs) 3.Clarke- N.Ridge (med slog 5 hrs) 4.Bardean- Tuning Fork (big slog 7 hrs) 5.A combo of #2+3 (ultra slog, but top o' list) Bardean is last due to the approach. May need to bivy due to shorter days, I'm willing to suffer! I think these routes require a solid 10a lead head and fast moving in the 5.9 and below. I'll be in Canada on saturday so we can meet in abbotsford sat night, or sunday morn depending on what route. Quit your job, leave your loved ones the weather is too fickle for these things right now. Give a call ASAP, don't bother to email. p.s. I'm not such an asshole or psycho as folks may have you believe, so call. -Mike Layton 360-756-6927 oh yeah, I'm calling everyone so I'm totally being a partner slut here. 1st one to commit. [ 09-19-2002, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Isn't that some aspect of Yak? I may find where you live, break into your house, and steal your mtn porn photo, and scoop your routes...naming them names that insult you and your family. Watch out!

Oh, too bad! Well Scorp, it was fun but this thread is getting really dumb (like that's never happened). Let's butt heads another time. Feel free to get the last word in. p.s. If you think I'm too serious, you obviously have never met me, if you did, you'd call me an asshole instead.

Everything for sale is in fine shape and can be trusted. The list dwindles... - Trango Ice Boot 42.5 $150 -BD Bobcat Shovel w/Snow Saw! $25 (part of the handle is broken, the left arm of the plastic "T" on top where you grip) -Nut tool -$5 -3 MSR Coyote Pickets $15 ea. -Petzel Artic Headlamp $25 -MEC Fast Foreward top- small, blue/green (be the 1st to look like Dru) $15 - Koflach Artic Expe Plastic Boots -Men's USA 10. $150 -Marmot A/T Glove -medium $25 - Marmot Parbat Parka size medium, red. Non- -Fleece/Neoprene balclava/facemask $5 -Petzel micro headlamp $10 [ 11-09-2002, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Wait, or maybe in Lillooettteeetoooeet? Apparently the ice is in I've heard! I'm there. If it's not over 60degrees it only counts now if you ski down it.

El Puerto Chico???? You totally gave it away w/the border crossing remark.

Welcome Back Polish Bob! I misssed your antics.

Ok, I'm not claiming FA on the mountain. The was no summit Cairn, so FRA. It would be cool if we were the first ones up there, but there's no way to know, like I posted before. We made a cairn of the summit for you Dru. I'm sure Jordan agrees w/our stand on at least a FRA on the peak itself. Anyway, this is getting overdone. I don't want to spray too much about this. There are about a million other much better, and harder routes out there put up my much better people than me and this is an insignificant speck in the world of climbing. ...But it was pretty important to me. Someone go do it this weekend. Dru?

The NE face of Tower has been climbed, although I dunno where the route goes (Red Beckey guide).

Thanks guys!

It think the reason we are pretty sure it hasn't been done is that the logging road in is new this year and the peak is an important part of that range. You'd have to buswack for a week to get to it w/o the new road this year. Who knows on FA's of mtns anyway. Humans have been around for a long time, and I'm sure a few snafflehounds scooped us on the real FA anyway, or for that matter bacteria probably made the summit before it ever saw the light of day. As for recorded history, I think we were the first. More photos to come. Jordan, post the topo. I put our route name on your MEC log entry whilt buying new crampons.

I'll be at the Ranch Room at 8pm tomorrow night if you want to brawl?

Uncool responses! If someone does a route it is established. In my book asking for beta on an established route or area is reasonable. I don't know anyone who's been in there to do any of these routes, so I'm asking for beta. They could be chossy and not worth the hike in leu of doing something of more quality. Isn't this website a rescource for beta? If I get response like this to beta request all the time I will pull all the beta I have given on the site. As for the unclimbed faces post on the main board... well you can either hog it for yourself and maybe never do it, or share it for someone (besides me too) else to try.

Yes. Beta please...

Looks like Mt Habrich, Dru. Anyway, good info, dunno about the E.Face of McMillian. What else, I'm not asking for secret unclimbed stuff, cuz obviously It's secret!

Just read climbing headlamp review. I just also lost my tikka. What should I buy. I want something w/an led that are bright enough for approaches. Should I get another tikka or the B.D. one or the princeton tech one?

I think Burdo calls it something else. Anyone been here, done any climbing? Any good, how long, what route. There are two in the burdo and two in the beckey. Long hike so beta is helpful for not wasting time.

What's left that isn't reported as total crap (example -Yak Peak)? Luna is one, but Beckey says of no interest in the red book. So what have you guys heard through the grapevine, or seen yourself that you don't want to keep secret (PM me if you do and need a partner). Let's get the list going...

Just wanted to thank FixedPin for an awesome day and partner on a super fun and hard peak. I also am posting to let folks know that crampons make going a lot quicker across to the base in late season (lots quicker than the weight would slow you down on the approach). We did the approach at night, and that I think is the ticket. Barely awake, cool out, and you can't see how far it is. Actually it really is pretty easy. Much easier than going down. We had tons of time left when we were done to do Burgandy but honestly, it didn't look that cool. We wanted to try the Pisiano Pinicle start, but coudln't figure it out. It's messy up there. I think I finally figured it out, but I'm not bothered that we didn't do that too. Both can be easily done in a day (Chianti took 4 hours up and 30min down). I want to do the Annie-Greensping climb next, as some guys I met just did and reported it as awesome. One more thing, if linking pitches, be careful or you'll get both the offwidth and the 2"-4" crack pitches like I did and am still recovering from.

"Back of Beyond Buttress" -North Face/Buttress of Unnamed Peak. First Ascent Sept 14th, 2002. Jordan Peters and Mike Layton. III+ (or D+) 10b. 9p. Apporox 1500' (maybe less). Approach time 1.5 hours. Climbing time 5-9 hours? Descent time 30-40 min. Suggested Rack (not our rack though):small set medium nuts, camsn to 3" plus double or tripples on the hand size cams(red alien to yellow camalot), one 50-60m rope. Tired after a long day at WA pass, I drove to Abbotsford to meet "Jordop" for the 1st time. We were planning on doing the route Dru was hidding in the chehalis range. We saw it and turned it down, and drove to another place to look at another mtn. It looked neat, but far and not so steep. We had one more option that was feasible so we drove into Kookipi creek to look at the mountain Dru was teasing Jordop with. It looked ok, but we turned that one down too. Kookipi creek is a "new" area that just recently opened due to logging. I can't tell you how to get there yet, becuase I don't know myself. Jordop will surely provide us w/driving direction. It is 3 hours from Vancouver, however on a 2wd road out of Boston Bar. My only problem was a flat tire from the previous drive, and I barely got it inflated w/a can of old tire sealant. Anyway, we turned the mtn down after turning our heads to the left. We both nearly shit ourselves. ACross the valley lay an unnamed, unclimbed, and beautiful granite peak! Granite flanks came down on all sides as it swept around a cirque headwall into another higher summit. It's unglaciated north side has a razor ridge coming down (looks like a Mohawk) to an unbelievably steep perfectly clean blank granite headwall slab. I'm talking super clean, and super blank looking. We quickly packed for a 2-day adventure and headed straight down from across the mountain for 300 feet to the river, and straight up open timer w/a couple dense sections (w/wild raspberries and blueberries!) for an hour to a bivy sport. A nice little stream ran along the base of the talus at a high meadow, where we ditched our packs and grabbed our ropes and gear. I need to mention that this is GRIZZLEY bear country and you MUST be careful! Blinded by the magnificance of this north buttress, I kept my head down (to keep the puke in) and charged up the talus to the base of a 4-500" near vertical apron of perfect, flawless granite. When I looked up, my heart sank. It was almost blank. Almost. On the very left hand of the wall were 4 thin crack that ran parallel up the entirety of the face. They seemed to peter out just as one started up again, but there looked to be a few scary blank sections. We started up! Jordan took the first pitch. The first part was a fist size perfect splitter of lengandary beauty. Then awesome moves over a small roof to a PERFECT handcrack. I cheered him on as he struggled and sweated up this imposing crack. Off belay! Shit, I guess I had to do the next pitch. I followed up and couldn't believe this crack. Perfect! Amazing! I was laughing while climbing. Damn nice lead! My turn. The crack continued straight out of the belay but looked like it ended. The crack to the left looked like it started thin and continued higher where the belay crack ended. Okay, so I travered over 15' w/no pro nearly shitting my self to the crack and it bottomed out and turned into a seam, so I travered back to the belay already pumped and scared. I was excited to continue up the original crack becuase it look like something right out of a 4 star squamish pitch. It was! It was soooo sweeet and fuckin' hard. It petered out and I did a traverse left to another crack and belay Jordan over. He seemed equally impressed and was pretty pumped (especially after one section). He lead up another perfect perfect hand crack that lead straight up until he too ran out of gear (why I belayed there). My turn again, another perfect crack, to a traverse right to another crack that got kinda weird at the very end, right unde a huge undercling block. Luckily it was only 10 or 20' of not perfect, but pretty good rock to the top of what were are calling the "Endurance Slab" since I wanted to name the climb the Endurance Buttreess, but that seemed a bit much for the whole climb. Anyway it was 4 pitches of absolutely amazing 10b climbing on every pitch. It could be done in 3 pitches, but you'd need a lot more pieces and have to be really good. The exposure is unbelievable, I was petrified on my hanging belays, and while leading. IT's just straight down 400 or more feet! Gulp! We topped out on the Endurance Slab and were now on the main ridge crest. I looked like it was gonna be easy going on low fifth to the summit, but we thought wrong! It turned out to be challenging and tons of fun. Lots of little 10-40' cruxes. Jordop will post a topo and I suggest you follow our line. We did a lot of scoping around and this should be the best way to go. Jordan's fist pitch on the ridge was an super-awesome 5.7 groove jam to a 5.9 corner on totally solid granite (n.ridge of stuart solid). My pitch was some fun moves to a 20-30 foot 10b corner that was soooo hard! No feet for every other move. It may be harder if it was any longer. I continued pulling a fun and easy roof block (I almost tunneled under it!). The next pitches got easier and easier on super solid rock. Near the top the rock was still very solid, but loose rock was on some ledges. The 2nd to last pitch sported a wide, vertical crack easily avioded on the left. We thought it sporting to do it anyways, and I totally flailed up it. 10c/d, but contrived and not part of the route. It took us 9 pitches to get to the unclimbed summit. We made a cairn and enjoyed to view of unclimbed peaks and walls an few hours drive from Vancouver. And as if we didn't have all the luck that day, the desent only took 30 minutes to the bivy site. Walk down from the summit towards the car, make a right into a grove of trees, and walk down a low angle talus gully. You'll see it going up. Very easy and no routefinding. We packed up our useless packs full of food and camping gear and got back to the car. The hike out is very quick, and the slog uphill at the end is much easier than say, the one at the Wine Spires at WA pass. What a fantastic route, day, and a partner! This route has the makings of a classic, and it's easily done car to car (or house to house) from Vancouver or Bellingham. I'm sure Jordop will post our topo and photos once we get them developed and you'll understand that I'm not overexaggerating just b/c we were the ones who did it that this route really is this good. One more thing. Should we write to the CAJ and how, and same goes for McLane if he updates his guide? Can we name the peak? If not, is it unethical to give it an un-official name? [ 09-15-2002, 03:40 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

I think the difficulty in that approach, due to your cakewalk, and our rather pleasent approach that day...compared to my previous nasty approach is the sun. Approaching when it's cool and cloudy makes all the aproachs less unfun I guess. How long did it take you from the car to the bivy site, and likewise, how long out to the car from the bivy site (for future ref when I head up again)? Water's plenty there I imagine? Nursery pass takes about 4.5 hours from the car 2-3 miles past the bardean approach. Shitloads of water at nursery pass.

I added even more shit, like Trango Ice Boots. BUY BUY BUY, everything must go. Just need my water bottle and sunglasses from now on.