Alex

thx for the report!

Quarks are still one of the best tools ever made, it's hard to go wrong there.

I used a Dremel and a sharp knife to modify the fangs somewhat for old style cobras; it took alot of time and patience as if you overdo it, you completely ruin the fangs. But the reality is the spike on the old Cobra is not designed to support the fang (and therefore your weight) well enough. You will find them flexing and awkward and anything but confidence-inspiring for modern leashless climbing. Your choices are basically different tools, keep Cobras and use Androids, or dunno. I swapped my old cobras for old vipers with Fangs probably 4? years ago, and climbed on the Vipers perhaps 2 years before I went to new Cobras

I climbed that thing one November with mikeadam belaying, and only got a half-driven knifeblade halfway up to the top. I think the climb must have fallen down like an hour later. Good times!

Climbing ice is flat out dangerous. However, crossing the Wenatchee river in a 30$ raft in the dark without very careful scouting during daylight is even more dangerous. If you do something like cross rivers to get to avalanche threatened ice climbs this season, PLEASE scout the crossing during daylight hours, wear a PFD and a helmet during your transit across the water, and come back alive. Dying whilst ice climbing is dumb, but dying while "river rafting" and not wearing a PFD is even dumber.

Nice meeting and hanging with you guys!

Hi Dan, I've been here since Thursday, I'm surprised we havent run into each other!

Shaking my head in disbelief but for once I completely agree with The Choad!

Sacs Millet are still Millet http://www.millet.fr/international/

Nice to see a caving TR. We did some of that back east with SUOC but seems no one does that out here.

Nice. I think it was you that so long ago was with me up there trying some thin mixed stuff, and fell off what from 20 feet up with now pro and landed in a big pile of snow!

Ok, have put up new conditions page for 2010-2011 http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx While you're there you can always check out the online guide and poke around. I work on it opportunistically from time to time... http://wastateice.net/Guide.aspx

I would head to Banff, however check the forecast as it is bone-chilling this week.

Was up near there today, running an errand. Nothing has remotely formed near Exit 38 yet.

Thanks for the update. Yeah I mean it's not even Thanksgiving yet! If we had weather this cold that started this early every year, no one would go Lillooet Here is what the place looks like when there is some ice...

awesome pics yo

Yo stokers, I havent started up the 2010 - 2011 ice condish pages yet on wastateice.net (http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx) but will this weekend. I'll watch this site but please dont hesitate to drop me a line, recompense AT hotmail DOT com if you get out and get some. Thanks, Alex

I think VW Redmond > Stoned Gardens for Bouldering.

denalidave, 3rd and 4th pic down Gimli Valhallas?

Someone is pulling your leg. Mt Baker is an easy day climb for most folks, and likely a half day climb for many folks on this board. If a guide service is telling you it's 3 days that's kinda nutty but whatever. Mt Hood is a really perfect beginner hill. It is big but has hazard only perhaps the last say 500 ft up the South Side route, and is climbed by many noobies every year. Climbing Mt Hood, Mt Adams, or Mt Baker will be all about the right timing if your coming all the way from Mississississippi. Your best bet for weather is August, but Hood by then is a complete junk pile and likely not worth the effort. Baker will still be fun. Best times for the volcanoes are in Dec (my fav!!) or like May.

Sorry Wes I probably even have the PM somewhere but flat out forgot.

I've climbed it one year December 15th. We drove up to the start of the 609 road in a minivan - it had been a wet fall, and was very cold but no snow yet. I don't think I've ever seen it in in November.

What do you want to know about them? I had a pair of the original X-15s before BRS, but had BRS too. I liked the originals (only sold them a year or two ago!) but didnt like the BRS as much. You need really big hands to have them be comfortable, and using them plunging in snow doesnt work so well because it chews up the rubber at the bottom of the shaft. At the time they were cool because the rubber insulated your hand from the shaft so they were not as cold as some of the aluminum shafted tools of the time for ice climbing in really cold places like Banff where the cold just seeps out of your body. They were kind of heavy overall.

It was fun reading this thread. This place hasnt changed much in 10 years

Lots of good info in this thread. Here is my .02 I think flying doesnt save you much time, and is posibly more expensive if you factor in the rental car. I drive because taking my 4Runner lets me go into the Ghost or taking my Jetta lets me go very fast. From Seattle the southern route over I-90, then North through Sand Point ID through the Columbia Valley to Radium and up over to Castle Junction is the fastest and least stressful drive. It is 630 miles from my house in Seattle to Castle Junction, and if the roads are dry I do it in 10 hours. I used to spend my time in hostels - Rampart used to be 9$ canadian a night - but they have become very expensive lately (Louise is currently over 30$ canadian a night, per person, for a bunk in a crowded room), so unless I am up on the Icefields Parkway at Mosquito or Rampart - really nice around New Years or going for Polar Circus or Murchison - I base out of Canmore. I spent many many seasons at the Akai, but it's degraded so now I stay at Rocky Mountain Ski Lodge. Lot's of peeps swear by the Drake, but I like the Ski Lodge. Either is walking distance to Safeway and coffee shop. I spent one trip at the Canmore bunkhouse but found it overrated. I like the Rockies because there are so many different areas to explore. But there is alot of driving involved. Make sure your vehicle is road worthy. That's one characteristic of the area: alot of driving, if things are not completely fat everywhere. Where you go will depend on your climbing level, mostly. The longer, harder routes and plums are generally found along the Icefields Parkway, and in the Ghost, farther from town. The beginner areas are actually quite close to town. Always check avalanche conditions before you climb. People die every year it seems due to avalanches on route here, you must be exceptionly careful. There are bazillions of classics. The routes that stand out in my memory more than most over the last 15 years are * Murchison/But My Daddy's a Psycho in 5+ conditions. * Professors with Gene one year maybe 1999 in heavy snow, and Professors again, complete, with my wife many years later * This House of Sky in the Ghost - easy but super fun! * Polar Circus - it doesnt matter how far you go, you'll have a good time! * Bourgeau Right Hand with Gene, great day! * David Thompson country climbs, for a change of pace from the Parkway, including Elliot Left, Two Oclock Falls, 5-7-0, etc * Gibraltar Wall * Hafner is always a good time! * Stanley Headwall * Linda Ice Nine Really good mileage days String Pather Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, and Snivelling Gully together back to back for 7 or 8 pitches of WI3-ish. Valley of the Birds in the Ghost Tons of other options Some climbs I don't think are worth it Johnson Canyon climbs Cascade Selenium Falls Louise if its crowded, what a zoo! Bull River Canyon unless it's been hella cold Last but not least, if the weather is decently cold allow for a several-hours soak in Radium Hot Springs on the way back South. At night, in the cold, it's really super nice. Hope that helps.