Alex

Nice pics all. Looks like a great day out! Xhen, that first pic with you approaching is looking directly at "Kiddie Cliff", looking not worth it in it's current shape.

DPS is spot on. Kautz is great, but there are other mountains out there. Some of the better experiences might include Baker, or a multi-day trip into the Three Sisters in Oregon where you can tag all Three Sisters and Broken Top, or a nice trip up Shasta and epic ski down.

Congratulations! To my knowledge this is indeed an FA, as the one party who had attempted it previously - on their first exploratory adventure to Strobach - made it halfway up before they bailed due to daylight. Looks great, looks harder than the typical shape I've seen it in, so good work getting after it in thinner early season shape! Very aptly named For those of you not as familiar with the area, this is perhaps the most "formed" I've seen this area this early in the season in a very long time. Bodes well for a strong ice season up there!

thx for the report!

Quarks are still one of the best tools ever made, it's hard to go wrong there.

I used a Dremel and a sharp knife to modify the fangs somewhat for old style cobras; it took alot of time and patience as if you overdo it, you completely ruin the fangs. But the reality is the spike on the old Cobra is not designed to support the fang (and therefore your weight) well enough. You will find them flexing and awkward and anything but confidence-inspiring for modern leashless climbing. Your choices are basically different tools, keep Cobras and use Androids, or dunno. I swapped my old cobras for old vipers with Fangs probably 4? years ago, and climbed on the Vipers perhaps 2 years before I went to new Cobras

I climbed that thing one November with mikeadam belaying, and only got a half-driven knifeblade halfway up to the top. I think the climb must have fallen down like an hour later. Good times!

Climbing ice is flat out dangerous. However, crossing the Wenatchee river in a 30$ raft in the dark without very careful scouting during daylight is even more dangerous. If you do something like cross rivers to get to avalanche threatened ice climbs this season, PLEASE scout the crossing during daylight hours, wear a PFD and a helmet during your transit across the water, and come back alive. Dying whilst ice climbing is dumb, but dying while "river rafting" and not wearing a PFD is even dumber.

Nice meeting and hanging with you guys!

Hi Dan, I've been here since Thursday, I'm surprised we havent run into each other!

Shaking my head in disbelief but for once I completely agree with The Choad!

Sacs Millet are still Millet http://www.millet.fr/international/

Nice to see a caving TR. We did some of that back east with SUOC but seems no one does that out here.

Nice. I think it was you that so long ago was with me up there trying some thin mixed stuff, and fell off what from 20 feet up with now pro and landed in a big pile of snow!

Ok, have put up new conditions page for 2010-2011 http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx While you're there you can always check out the online guide and poke around. I work on it opportunistically from time to time... http://wastateice.net/Guide.aspx

I would head to Banff, however check the forecast as it is bone-chilling this week.

Was up near there today, running an errand. Nothing has remotely formed near Exit 38 yet.

Thanks for the update. Yeah I mean it's not even Thanksgiving yet! If we had weather this cold that started this early every year, no one would go Lillooet Here is what the place looks like when there is some ice...

awesome pics yo

wdietsch wants it!

Yo stokers, I havent started up the 2010 - 2011 ice condish pages yet on wastateice.net (http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx) but will this weekend. I'll watch this site but please dont hesitate to drop me a line, recompense AT hotmail DOT com if you get out and get some. Thanks, Alex

I believe I asked the same question at the time I ordered my battery about 2 years ago and I belive the answer I got was you had to use an old style batt with the old style drill. Rad might know as well, he has the exact same drill.

I think VW Redmond > Stoned Gardens for Bouldering.

denalidave, 3rd and 4th pic down Gimli Valhallas?

Someone is pulling your leg. Mt Baker is an easy day climb for most folks, and likely a half day climb for many folks on this board. If a guide service is telling you it's 3 days that's kinda nutty but whatever. Mt Hood is a really perfect beginner hill. It is big but has hazard only perhaps the last say 500 ft up the South Side route, and is climbed by many noobies every year. Climbing Mt Hood, Mt Adams, or Mt Baker will be all about the right timing if your coming all the way from Mississississippi. Your best bet for weather is August, but Hood by then is a complete junk pile and likely not worth the effort. Baker will still be fun. Best times for the volcanoes are in Dec (my fav!!) or like May.