Alex

this is Primus Suckus... When I was there last weekend...we climbed first on the left...and could see primus suckus...there was nothing between the two climbs. But I do remember a flow to the left of primus suckus. No, it isnt. Please see my previous post. Primus Sucks is the left-most route on the entire cliff; the first route you encounter as you approach from 609 (which means coming from the northwest), or the *last* route you encounter coming the other way, from "First on the Left". The route in your quote above is "Second on the Left" in the book, which we're calling Unholy Baptism.

For sure, you were halfway up it!

It's unclimbed, its the route to the right of Primus Sucks. This one is also unclimbed. This is Unholy Baptism, aka "Second on the Left". The bottom pitch has seen an ascent, and the top pitch has been seriously tried once but backed-off of by a very skilled climber (during a season when he was running laps all over testpiece 5s). Bottom pitch is a 70m WI4. Top pitch is a full-vertical 60m 5 or 6. I installed a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch during the summertime many years ago, with the idea that I'd bolt the lower half of the second pitch to enable getting up it even in lean years, but after inspecting the rock decided it was best left alone and safe ascents would only happen if ice was covering the junk rock. Probably one of the finest routes in Washington. Basically, there are four or five regularly forming routes left of Separation Gully. One usually doesnt form, so in normal years there are only 4. But whatever. From left to right, as you approach from 609 road, it's Primus Sucks, Unclimbed, Unclimbed, Unholy Baptism, and First on the Left. Seperation Gully. Then Sudden Change of Plan, Sad Ce'bu, Right Stuff, Dropline....etc.... So yeah, you've got pics of essentially 3 FAs there, afaik.... Alex

Cayoosh creek is running really low, ice dams abound right now, and there is NO SNOW anywhere low in the Duffy, so approach direct to the creek down the hill. Synchro doesnt look that healthy right now, but is climbable.

May I make a suggestion? As the WA Ice guide book author it would be nice to have either an updated web page or post more succinct information when asked (pics, grade and route description) on routes not in the current edition. Please note this is a TR for "Water Ice". I didn't name anything here as I am not so vain or naive enough to think these lines haven't been done. Just have yet to read a credible route description. I would also doubt this route would ever be 5 pitches even with a 120' rope and you could climb the longer one (call it "Blue Moon" if you like) with a 120' rope if pressed. I'd have to think anyone capable of climbing the top 3 pitches would put a rope on for the approach. (since it gets skied) The "sounds like" answer isn't very convincing. Until I see pictures of someone climbing the crux corner, sorry I'm not convinced. As there are two sets of rap tat below the crux...and neither of them where it would be if you were/had actually climbed it as a ice climb or even hard mixed. That seemed to be the consensus of the five of us who were there this weekend anyway. I have updated web pages, actually, on wastateice.net. Alpental valley and Rap Wall are not there yet; I work on this stuff as time permits, which these days is rare. I didn't see you claiming and FA, so thanks for the clarification that you are not. I am just offering what little I know of the history of the area and likely the route you did. I disagree that "I should have just known" from whatever description is written and pics: there are alot of possible routes above Source Lake, it's often very difficult to figure out what people are doing or where they are without pictures of recognizable features or UTM coords. But your second pic has that clear boxy roof up above, same as Roger Strong pics, which is why I commented as I did. But it's academic, as the most important thing is folks climbing and having fun! Here are the photos I have of Flow Reversal, you're free to draw whatever conclusions you like.

It's a new trend Dru, get with the times.

Thanks Dane, I'm pretty sure your "Once in a blue moon...." is Flow Reversal, the second pic you posted looks like the same as one Roger Strong sent to me years ago when the route was first reported. It's not in the book because the draft had gone to press by then. It was first climbed a few years ago either by Roger Strong or one of his friends, and was done very early season as a 5 pitch route (there are two rambly pitches below when there is less snow) at WI5 X. It's been repeated several times since, every few years.

That's Not Quite a Plum. Bryant Buttress is the large rock wall/buttress in the upper left of the pic. That's Frenchman Falls, actually. That's Fuggs Falls.

I believe it's Flow Reversal, but you'd have to show me on map where you climbed it.

if you are not filing down the new picks after purchase, you're going to experience difficulty in cleaning - its true for both bd cobras and vipers. once you file them down a bit, especially the beveled teeth on the bottom, things will be fine.

That's Kiddie Cliff/O Tanenbaum

Sorry to create confusion, but that's not Bryant Buttress actually, that's the route called Not Quite a Plum. This picture: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/0223.jpg is the giveaway: that tree above right there is the top of the first pitch. I think the guide has some non-commital words about Not Quite a Plum because at the time I was calling it something different than that, but I figured it out a little better after the book went to print. Oh well, its a fun rotue!

Likely obvious to everyone, but the photo of the person abseiling on the left are the same person about 12 feet lower, but the same exact spot, as the image on the right.

Nice job! Ice looks good. The curtain-ish thing in the very center of your last photo is also an FA waiting to happen

I don't know, Paul.

Global warming will make it easier in a few short years.

what Gene said. Most of the time the upper stuff is a snow slope and completely buried. The Rap Wall is the wall at the very center of your circle in the pic.

Mid-late march is generally already the end of the season for the Canadian Rockies; I've had a fantastic trip 3rd week in March, and I've been rained out 4-days-in-a-row third week in March, so watch Gravsports for ice conditions and watch the weather. If the weather here locally in the PNW is remotely any good, late March is perfect ski touring and alpine climbing season.

Craig first attempted it January 20th, 2007, and Jeff Street and I climbed it complete the next day (Jan 21st), along with the FA of Bleeder Project and an ascent of Ice Dreams. In the condition it was in at the time of the FA it was 4+. However, almost all the times I've ever seen it outside that season it's been considerably harder/more technical. The picture above shows perhaps typical conditions.

Really nice Ade and John. Looks like June, not January!

Someone did. Not super fat, but def lots of climbable ice. Motherlode area. Dropline.

You left out: Blew the clip. and Is staging his falls for a mag, as he has two seperate photogs taking snaps of him at the same time.

nice. my experience with pandome is the pro is usually crap until you're on vert ice. nice outing!

I think your best option is to ski backcountry as much as possible. Ski lessons will not help you much at this stage of your development, and lift-served skiing does not teach you anything further that will be applicable to backcountry skiing, plus is very expensive. It's hard to get the mileage in the backcountry, but it's the only place you'll find a variety of conditions that will ultimately make you a better skiier in those same conditions. I don't remember the boots you were wearing when you broke your foot, but I thought they were fairly lightweight touring boots? A really good boot can't be emphasized enough: one that will keep you warm and dry all day, and not make you sweat too much in the up-tracks. Finally, multiple sets of good skins and anti-balling wax will get you out more often. I suffered with a single set of (albeit pretty good) skins for too long and missed the second day on a lot of weekends because my skins had gotten wet enough to not dry overnight.

Thanks for the pics! Looks like it's cold enough, just not enough water. The recent snow should help a little bit with that.