Alex

Nice report yo. Glad you guys gave it a go! When I climbed this in 2001? I was with Dan E and Scott B, and our day was so fantastic - 24 hours door to door - sunny and warm on the climb, climbing with our shirts off during the afternoon! - we topped out at sundown, froze instantly as the temps dropped about 20 degrees in what seemed just a few min - rapped and downclimbed the entire route with only 1 headlamp between the 3 of us. It's an endless decent any way you do it. We also crossed the river in the dark, in a raft for 3 very low in the water. But all that effort makes it so memorable. One of the finest times I've had climbing ice in WA.

Congrats on the little one! Welcome to the rest of your life! The gear will be 10s to 13s after the first 20 feet of so, but you can get a good KB down low to protect the opening moves for sure. I've heard people suggest we (collectively we) bolt this thing to make it "safer" but I tend to want to keep it the way it is, as it's really a blast and quite safe in these conditions on natural pro. When there is no ice, the rock is the same side-pulling down-sloping Rhyolite that makes up the rest of Deception, so not really that worthwhile unless iced up.

Actually, the reports around that date (12/2/09) are accurate: I hadn't yet paid my yearly invoice and the host was pretty prompt in disconnecting my site All taken care of now for another year!

Josh, you can lead CYA dude go for it!

This thread is corrupt somehow, as anonymous view I see three pages but as Logged In I see only 2.

It is, it's "Unnamed" right of CYA. I soloed it around this time last year, it was fun after the thrutch through the alder down low. Top out is climbers left on some slings?

Not that I know of but that's a long drive when you can find Ice 30 miles in any direction from Seattle. I've updated conditions http://wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx

I hiked around Strobach with Rafael on Sunday, scouting out some potential and just getting a good workout. The good news is that the temps at ~4500 were cold enough to maintain the snow pack, the surface hoar, and all that. Ice was forming where routes will be later in the season. The bad news is nothing is climbable yet, and there isnt enough snow on Strobach's NW face to feed the climbs even if the cold stays. We need more snow! It *IS* Elk season, but the two hunters we saw were bow hunters.

The new vipers for alpine ~= the old vipers for alpine. (For alpine I'd rather have something simple like a straight shafted CFBP). The new cobra is worth the extra cash over the new viper, IMO. My own progression has been: original X-15s (no BRS), curved handle Black Prophets, old vipers, old cobras, quarks, new cobras. I climbed for one season on a quark and a new Cobra as well. I like the new cobras best of all these tools. I've tried the new Vipers after having owned the new cobras and didnt like so much

I predict I will be climbing ice in BC on Dec 19 and Dec 20.

thx cut n paste, will fix in a moment edit: I am running into a wierd FTP bind error that is probably a result of me being behind a differnt proxy right now. I will fix from home later tonight.

Earliest I've climbed at Strobach was the first week of Dec, during a cold year. We were still able to drive to the beginning of 609 road then witha minivan, and climbed Sad Ce'be in thin but protectable conditions. I don't think it's been really cold enough yet, but the moisture we have is critical component of fat climbs there.

Hey all, I am going to try and keep up this year as always. http://www.wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx I'll take things from here but feel free to send me updates direct.

I have two boxes of boys clothes for baby's under 1. Free I have a Peg Perego infant car seat - 25$ I'm looking for a full-body harness for my 3 year old. PMs please.

Pure style. Thank you so much for sharing all that!

So sorry to hear about his passing! I met Sean while working on the Washington Ice guide and he was a great contributor and fun person to be around! Jason and I tried to get his work into the ice guide but Mountaineers opted to do no color photos or other work, so sadly his art didn't get included at the time.

Love the pine marten. I'm very surprised you actually saw one! I worked on a pine marten project back in the 1990's and they are very elusive even when you are trying very hard to find them!

Nice report, I too have always wondered about this face but never committed the time to just go do it. Nice to see someone try it out..

Nice effort! Hey, you're still alive, good work.

nice work!

Where'd ya move to??

nice job!

Or the incidents, maybe? I guess spelling isn't required of editors anymore

"My parents forced me to carry crampons even though I knew I wouldn't need them.... I mean seriously, I'm graduated!" Love the humor!