Alex

ice in beer is gross, but an iced beer at the base of a route waiting for you when you get back to the car, now your talking better yet, hot buttered rum

as you were

Hey Greg the unwritten law is dont accept any beta or info from me it seems. actually it IS written down, in our notes. "Don't accept beta from cavemen." As for Alexus chew the butt still stands. just as long as its not your butt! Also a clue ... try contacting rat for ice climbing info if you have not. He seems like one of the most prolific ice climbers in Leavenworth. As well as a fistfull of others that I dont really know. thanks ray, actually we've been talking to rat for quite some time and yes, he gets out quite a bit! he has done some interesting stuff, too. There are a couple of other guys there too - Jason has 'worth so I am not really in on that loop. Jason and I split responsibilities for areas across the state. So Alex has stuff like Strobach and Banks, while Jason goes after 'worth and Mazama. Honestly, without the division of labor this first edition would be almost too much work for 1 person.

Dude, Bigbird on CNN! Right on!

Hey you asked for 1 photo of dragontail. How do you know the vantages I may have to offer... if I wanted a pic of Asgaard Pass I would have asked! BTW when are you gonna climb triple coolers triple coolers because a single cooler isnt gonna be able to hold the case!

Ray, you offered 1 photograph of Dragontail. Something I replied to you that we needed to go do anyway because we need several different vantage points. This guide would be nothing if it were not for the help others have provided, and we are very happy to receive the help. So kiss it

right on brother bone!

JoshK, if I can offer you some advice, I would say go for it. Take the SE face over the S Ridge, the glacier should be passable still, its very mellow. If anything stops you it will be the moat at the start of the SE Face. It will be burly. How you do on the SE Face dictates whether you climb Torment only, or do the traverse. Take some crampons as there might be spots of ice that high up now, though there isnt much snowmelt on the route itself. If you are fast and start really early you *could* climb most of the traverse the first day. We were not fast enought and didnt start early enough (in August, which should give you a big hint) but could have made real progress if we hadnt gotten shat on. Torment is a great climb any way you cut it, go out and have fun. Alex

oh, re-reading, you are right, I thought they actually did it (knowing wayne, in fact, I was just assumed that had done it )

michael, seems to me Dave Parker is saying he climbed the route you are talking about, in his previous post

thanks all

anyone been to the North side of the mountain recently?

Mike, mattp, while the weather sucked downstate, it didnt rain in the Adirondacks until Sunday afternoon. got completely worked on a classic 5.8 crack at Chapel Pond on Fri, but all-in-all a great weekend to see the leaves! Adirondack Autumn, from the summit of Pok-O-Moonshine Craig Meisner climbs the 5th pitch of the classic Regular Route with Cave finish on Chapel Pond slab Pok-O-Moonshine Alex leads a classic 5.8 on the Creature Wall [ 10-15-2002, 01:33 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

Paul, even Cle Elum is a long drive for an after-work beer! Alex

[ 10-15-2002, 01:29 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

JayB, that is indeed an early (and God, how early!) draft that we posted here on cc.com to generate some buzz. But to be honest, that draft doesnt do our current work justice. Jason was not kidding when he said it would take a long time (and be a little pointless) to list an index of routes here: we have over 230 routes! The guide is going to be great. Everytime I look at the awesome contributions in pictures, beta, and most importantly climbing accomplishments that we have from many local-yet-low-key ice climbers, I get pumped to gear up and go ice climbing! We hope you will too, Alex

Wierd. I'll be in the Adirondacks this weekend. We'll also be climbing moderates. No crowds in the 'Daks.

I'll take em colin. Alex

I sent it! From L to R: To The Top, Allison (not really visible in this pic), COL Van Spanker, Figure Eight?, erden, Dave Parker sitting very godfatherlike at the head of the table, Wayne waving, AlpineK, Dave Shudt, jon Also present but not in pic, hikerwa, mattp, v, 009?, Beck, ... good times, Alex [ 10-08-2002, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

[ 10-08-2002, 06:02 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

quote: Originally posted by allison: Alex, does that mean you'll be joining us tonight? I want to hear all about last weekend! And TLG, bring those thigh-highs with the sticky rubber, could come in handy for a little downtown buildering! believe it or not (I know its hard to believe) I actually try to make this pretty regularly, but Tues are tough, work/life issues have cropped up last x number of times I've tried to come down there. BUT NOT TONIGHT! Ooooooooohhhhhhh yyeeeeeaaaahhhhhh....

lets not

egggselent!

I did it earlier this year with dps and mvs. I would be very surprised if the upper schrund was passable at all without 1) climbing yuck rock to one side (this as resulted in the near-death of at least one climber in the recent past) or 2) rapping into the schrund and climbing up the opposing wall the approach is only 4 hours max from the car, though, so go in and check it out. It is a really stellar area to be in, regardless of whether you climb or not. Plus, by now I bet most of the bugs are dead, making it all the more pleasant boulder hopping. Alex

if you are talking about Kangaroo Temple, near the Liberty Bell massif, you basically hike up to Kangaroo Pass from the hairpin turn on highway 20, and you cant miss it to the Southeast of the pass. Its a fairly basic level traverse along some climbers paths n such to get over there. Beckey's red has an good picture of it, the S face I blieve, which is essentially the view you are greeted with from the pass. Alex