Alex

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Erik is the real stud...he only takes four cams. [/QB] Why, I do believe I-am-a-bone is coming on to you erik!

As John mentioned, I climbed on/near it in 1999 and could probably offer you some general info at least

erik is JERRY SANCHEZ!!

quote: Originally posted by sk: I read somewhere that lead climbs have rights and if some one is top roping or planning to top rope a climb, and someone willing to lead comes along said top roper is SUPPOSED to excuse themselves and let the lead climb go. Reality is, this really doesnt work in most cases. While it might be polite to let someone lead through if you are "projecting" (shudder) a route, I and just about all of my friends will be the last people to look down from halfway up and say..."oh, sorry, you wanted this?", lower off, clean all the gear, make it all purty, just so some clod with a lead rack can flail on the route? Who is to say that Mr Leader will actually only take 5 min? Or only take an hour and a half? Especially with a route like Godzilla, where people routinely wet their pants, you might be suddenly placed in a situation where Mr Leader now has to lower off, clean, retreat, walk around the top, give up the sharp end to his ropegun buddy, etc, all wasting your time. Just 'cause you thought to be polite. If you would like to test my assertion that this is indeed reality, please go visit the Gunks on a summer weekend, and walk up to the nearest topropers and say, "sorry, chum, gonna lead through". They will give you a blank stare, draw their concealed weapon (they are all New Yorkers after all) and you will run! I am with Dywaner on this one, totally. However, that said, it is COMMON COURTESY to get off a route as soon as you are done with it, not hog it Mountaineers style for the whole afternoon. Thats straight bullshit. Alex

(The register on Red is indeed gone.)

quote: Originally posted by RedMonk: ...two ropes tied together....haha what a bunch of asses... not real sure why thats funny...have you tried TRing it with a single? Now THATS funny!

quote: Originally posted by iain: Some other products suffering from BD takeover so far: Scarpa Inverno ("new fit", extended wear will lead to removal of skin and possible tib/fib Fx) BD just distributes them, Scarpa is an independent Italian bootmaker

I have 00 TCU and aliens. I am pretty partial to aliens - I have taken a long leader fall on the blue alien and there was never an issue. It seems like every climb I do I place blue, green, and yellow aliens. Awesome. I dont place the 00 TCU nearly as often, but sometimes it comes in handy

Looked at Coleman Headwall last Thurs, the direct start looked a bit dangerous and unappealing, while traversing in from the left seemed like it might go but you would still have to contend with a serious looking schrund about 1/2 way up. Get there early, the snow was really soft already at 7am. Alex

nice!

I tried NR Baker today with dane, we could not find a way to the base, and turned around at 7300. Alex

hey shane, nice job and TR!

The Chimneys in a day car-to-car is a North Cascades classic tour-de-force, highly recommended! Really a great route in a great setting, with lots and lots of very varied terrain. [ 08-06-2002, 01:05 PM: Message edited by: Alex ]

trad 11s at smith, sounds like sunshine dihdral to me!

Its around 18 mi one way to Glacier Medows, but the first 13 miles are "flat". TG, arent you talking about the 3 Sisters Marathon? Anyone know what the current standing time is? I thought you had to do Bachelor too, to make it official these days... Alex

oh, you can believe what you like I suppose doesnt really matter, as long as we're all having fun! Cheers, Alex

yeah, I was considering this with bikes with pencilneck, but am not sure now its the best use of 24 hours. Klar404, have you done it this way? John Doe

quote: Originally posted by iain: quote:Originally posted by Alex: Oregon only has Mt Hood (which is how I started, and I love Hood) which does offer alot for 1 mountain, but its 1 mountain. So that's why Jeff and the sisters are still so pleasantly empty. Hope that PDX-centric attitude persists. Jeff and the Sisters are hills, son.

As a person who has lived in both OR and WA with a girlfriend from PHX and sister who lives in PHX, I can say both Seattle and Portland have their charms. Portland is a nice town, it still has a small-town feel to it. You can be walking downtown and actually recognize people you have met or know. Portland is just as rainy as Seattle in the winter, but hotter than Seattle in the summer, on average. Access to the mountains is easy from Portland, the skiing on Hood can be epic or suck. Access to windboarding in the Columbia Gorge. Rock climbing in city is limited, but Smith is not far and is a year-round climbing area. As far as real alpine, sorry, Oregon only has Mt Hood (which is how I started, and I love Hood) which does offer alot for 1 mountain, but its 1 mountain. Yosemite, Vegas and the Sierras are 3 hours closer than Seattle. Seattle is a nice town, still small by East Coast standards. Visually and geographically, its very diverse, and that makes it interesting. Wonderful summers, overcast at other times. Nearest rock climbing is an hour away, but there is alot of climbing within 2 hours - very little of it is year-round climbing though. Skiing from 1 - 2 hours away, is usually epic somewhere, and usually sucks at Snoqualmie pass, but thats just the nature of Snoqualmie pass. Access to alpine climbs is unparalleled in the lower 48. There is alot of reliable ice climbing in WA, where these is little in OR. Plus Banff is 12 hour drive. If you can stand the long periods of no sun, you can be very happy in either place.

what chucK said. Its not particularly hard to find from the valley bottom coming from Longs Pass. Cross the creek and go down valley. Soon the trail enters a pleasant medow where there is a climbers path going UP. It switchbacks through the medow a few times, then up the climbers left side of the medow in timber to some benches, then directly into the couloir. From here you climb up the bottom and then the right side of the couloir, steep in a few spots and sometimes wet. The terrain eases off higher up, until the false summit and eventually Sherpa come into view.

when?

I have trip report http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRPicket.htm pictures http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/pickets.htm

or the size of their balls?

chucK, now that was funny!

Oh one last thing. Whatever anyone tells you, do NOT bivy on the ledge at the base of the rap off the Gendarme. It looks comfortable, but when we climbed this, about 3 min after my second traversed the gully a huge amount of ice and stonefall came down the gully and surely would have killed anyone in or near it, including that ledge.