Alex

thats alot of holes for a little drill, i wouldnt hesitate

I'd get back into 11 shape if there were hott prana-top groupies, though. But last I heard they were all bouldering ....

Where's the "like" button? Geez I'm lost on this old-skool website UBB thing!

I'm embarrassed that you overheard my kid lying to me.

I've gone Sahale Arm to the SW aspect of Torment without issue. There is only one more long ridge running down that divides Boston Basin from Roush Cr, which is the long ridge coming down climbers right as one approaches Eldo via Roush Cr. Seems totally doable.

Saying that you have to have done something "all around" eg can lead 5.11 trad offwidth before you can properly proclaim yourself a 5.11 trad leader is contrived. Climbing is contrived to begin with, why make it so much more complicated? Next I'll have to present some paperwork to get my Bobcat badge.

Are you using tape? It helps prevent skin abrading. Otherwise, I find good hand jams and finger locks one of the most comforting things out there. They CAN BE painful sometimes, for me mostly because I rarely climb with tape, but its not like ALL your weight is on your hands, your feet are still taking the majority of your weight. Right? I've found Breakfast of Champions is a good crack for painless hand jamming. There are a few routes at Leavenworth in the 5.9 - 5.10 range that have nice secure hands.

this series of TRs with no epics is getting boring

so, if I undertand your situation correctly, in order to do this this stuff with your chosen partner, your wife, you're willing to carry the majority of the stuff? If so, Ok, disregard my comment. I was assuming a 50/50 split between two equal partners. If each partner is carrying 30-40L packs, thats how you get to what I was stating. Finally, rope is almost always outside he pack, not inside.

khu, if you can't fit everything incl climbing gear and overnight gear - pocket rocket, canister, titanium cup, ultra light bag, etc - into a 40L pack, you are taking too much crap. My wife does overnight alpine trips with a 30L pack, incl climbing shoes, sleeping bag, bivy sack. Something to aim for....

I must be getting old, because I thought I just read a thread on a climbing bbs about absolutely nothing.

looks perfect. n face athabasca one of my all time favs!

I think if you are asking whether it's possible to approach Eldorado, then hang a right and traverse under Torment and through Boston basin to Sahale arm, and come back down the arm, or some variation that goes through Boston Basin, the answer is yes. This area is extremely well frequented and there is no travel difficulty once above treeline, plus there is ample fresh water. The trip might take 2 days if yountake your time but can be done in a day. If you are asking whether you can do the loop around the back side of Torment, over the N side of Forbidden, this is a much more serious trip that requires much more time this time of year. Its commonly called the Forbidden Traverse if done as the classic ski tour starting on Sahale arm and ending on the Eldo plateau, via sharkfin col.

West Ridge of Stuart. Edit: ok, probably not the best route to "get started on the alpine stuff" as its a pretty long day (or two)... but still one of the best outings of its kind in the NW

october will be very sketchy with weather.... but... bailey range traverse on olympic penninsula 4-7 days. ptarmigan traverse north cascade 4-7 days ESPECIALLY if you throw in a detour to Trapper Lake for fishing pasayten wilderness (do a search here) to amphitheater and cathedral peak etc. this might be best for October

its often completely overcrowded, and has limited hours.

i would use gasoline. gasoline has no adverse effect on tree sap, but once your Nylon 6 rope is completely saturated with gasoline, lay it out in the sand to air out, then light it on fire. The tree sap will now be removed.

hey Rudi I also have a gas powered ryobi impact drill you might want to try out

Yeah. The TE6A with battery is immensely heavy. 2 batteries and drill and bits and bolts easily weighs 50-60 pounds. Rad and I know from humping this shit into the various crags last 4-5 years, now we understand why the gridbolters stay so close to the roads! So I know how it is. I think best bet is to take it and try it out on random boulder at 38 or Index. If you get several good holes - tight, clean, 3+ inch deep - out of a single battery, it's worth it. I used both powers 5-piece bolts and Fixe and other stuff, but for Powers especially the deeper holes are needed. Then you should have him take a torque wrench and torque to the correct tightness for the bolt. The Powers heads shear off pretty easy so the torque wrench is a must for safe placement of Powers bolts.

id be surprised if you got more than 4 holes on a full charge. my hilti te6a 36v gets about 11 holes per charge.

you go girl!

late sept will be few bugs but cold and short days, youll be trying to climb in the sun so some routes like n side pingora might be too cold. only one time i was there was a week in mid sept and it was super nice, no one around but quite chilly

when i climbed the e ridge, we went pretty much straight up from the staircase, no travering n. it ws never more than class 4, we never roped up. so i think you went too far right. cj col to the car via dougs direct circa 4.5 hours sounds spot on to me

How about... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1076565/gonew/1/REI_Kindercone_Sleeping_Bags#UNREAD

So, what was it like? It was 19 years ago. It was scary. It was dark. I think had it been daylight, I would have backed off. I've never gone back.