Alex

Sunshine will probably be a big snow ramp, except maybe above the schrund where the headwall steepens a little bit before you hit Queens Chair. But hey, its a living!

Sunshine is doable anytime of year. NF just requires good av conditions. Dont know about Eliot HW, never done it. Alex

I have been using Sportiva Mythos for everything for about 3 years now. I have 2 pairs: one stretched out pair for longer days, one tighter pair for 2 pitches or less before they come off. Climb index, climb vantage, climb static/darrington, climb WA Pass, climb N Ridge of Stuart, climb...climb...up!

Moving the post there, and... One of the climbing rags just had a small review on ice climbing gloves, about 6 of them anyway. Some suggestions there. I think every climber who has ever climbed ice has sought the perfect glove: warmth without sacrificing dexterity, waterproof without dexterity, and a purchase without sacrificing your wallet. Everyone has their favorites. Everyone has a different budget. Over the years I've worn OR Pro Gloves Mont Bell Black Diamond Patagonia All of them were a compromise. Good luck, Alex

There were alot of folks at vantage over the weekend including some notable cc.com personae. Sat morning clear blue sky, not a cloud in the sky, lots of people at Sunshine wall but routes always open. Temps in the high 50s at the base of the routes. Sat aft the wind kicked up a little, and it cooled off. Below freezing overnight, Sun am colder than Sat am, but warmed up faster and by 10 it was shirtless climbing at Sunshine wall. Again blue sky, no clouds. Aft temps I would say about 60. No wind Sun afternoon, lots of good times. Lots of people working out the early season kinks, myself included.

moved to spray...

I hear that Jason Martin character is a real asshole!'

Scott, there is some stuff on lower and upper town wall at Index that is classically termed "nailing practice". These include the incipient heading seam left of Danas Arch p1. which can be toproped for a good introduction to heads and beaks, and some of the other very similar seams between Davis-Holland and Earwax. On the upper wall right base is the route you and I have partially nailed to Madsens Ledge (originally rated A3 or A3+ on the Cummings Guidebook? Its a good piece of work, remember we did not get up it all the way). If you are looking for wider routes at Index (i.e. larger than beaks) I know Snow White is still commonly nailed (several KBs in a row), but its short and I would suggest you rather try Orc Tower area, or any area at Index that has few/no established free climbs. Even after all these years there is alot of good route potential for 2-3 pitch routes on the lower wall and 4-5 pitch routes on the upper wall. If you are looking for something longer and further afield, not just as practice, there are numerous backcountry wall routes waiting for you. Look me up if you want to get on that "project" you and I were talking about last year!

I didnt know hiking Colorado 14er's counted as "climbing"... seriously, though, what Loren said. The Gib Ledges is std winter trade route on Rainier, you guys should have a fun time. Alex

its called "cleaning"...

You want bolts or natural gear?

OK, I understand. I didnt have any idea that the map was so big, I though it was just an overview map like 8 1/2 by 11 or something produced specifically for the ice festival. If its somethine Lyle is selling, thats a different story, I will just go off the info on bivouac etc. until I can get around to paying the man his due. Alex

I havent seen this ice map and would like to, as the book is 10 years old now and I'd like to check out whats new.... Anyone have a scan they could send me? Alex

I'll readily admit I printed out the Sweet Granite in Renton thread fully intent on driving down there and checking it out..!

Ack! Blasphemer! How can any self-respecting ice climber not know what book?!?! I climbed Gib Wall with Gene Pires a few years back, it was really fun! Not as hard as Weeping Wall, but a really nice 4. We went back to Golden that night, stayed at the hostel, climbed Guiness Gully next morning. I think the Capt Caveman climbed Gib Wall with Beckey a few seasons ago, if I recall? Cheers, Alex

I'll go to Lillooet. PM me if anyone is interested. Alex

I actually drive the 1 to Hope, Coquihalla highway to Kamloops, and the 1 to Golden and to Louise from there. I usually climb the first day in Golden or Field, so I only get to Louise after the first day of climbing, if I am going up the parkway. Sometimes it depends on the weather: I believe the US highways are not maintained as well during snowy weather, and the driving is much slower than the 1, except if Rogers Pass is getting dumped on really hard. The last 4 times I've gone, I've pretty much driven through the night, and the only place the 1 is slow at all is through Salmon Arm on Shuswap Lake. The rest of it is fast. To get to Experts Choice, Gibraltar Wall, or Radium climbs, I would agree Sand Point is probably a little faster. Ultimately I dont think it makes much difference, though

I've done Bellingham to Golden in 7 hours. I consistently go Seattle to Louise in about 10 hours, unless Rogers Pass is a nightmare. Drive at night, not during the day, and you save 2+ hours due to less traffic, less trucks, and less congestion and the border. Banff is really very close, quite reasonable for a 3 day weekend.

Johnathan, you are certainly not the first to notice the good ice potential around Unicorn. The Tatoosh is a climbing gem for its access and wide range of potential... Alex

Thats gross, Ray!

Ray, its an endless job trying to keep up with you. However much I would love to claim any responsibility for any "moderating" around here in the last few months, I can't. Simple fact is, I havent been around, and you can stuff your guesses as to who has it in for you today up your ass! Alex

DEAR GOD! A thread that started as a serious discussion that evolved into spray that evolved into....Beta?? what is the world coming to?

one thing is for sure...this should never be in a route report

that looks fun!

super gaiters solve alot of problems on really wet/warm days volcano slogging. Even without any gaiters, I'd climb in leathers over pastics anyday except dead winter maybe. The Nepal Extreme will be much heavier than the Trango Ice. I remember my Nepal Tops as being surprisingly heavy..as heavy as my plastics in fact. Go with Trango Ice