Alex

Late May will already be fairly hot in southern UT. I would suggest going a littler earlier if you can, but a combination of the following in no particular order * bring good mnt bikes, bike slickrock (Porcupine Rim, Poison Spider Mesa) then go into the LaSal Mnts S of Moab and bike there two. Awesome singletrack in LaSals. * bike the White Rim (2 days) with light packs/panniers * Climb Castleton Tower, which you saw when you dropped the bitchin' Porcupine Rim singletrack. Badass. * Climb one day outside Moab on Potash Road so you can really appreciate... * climbing in Indian Creek. 2 days ought to make you realize how weak of a climber you really are. * Now that you are in shape but humbled, and on about day 5 or 6, it's down to Zion for SpaceShot et al.

yes, thats normal if you mean that a rescue attempt/search waits for a semi-decent weather window. Can't and Won't, semantics. The Mt Rainier NP rangers know whats up and will do their best. Cheers, Alex

REI was recently selling BD stinger picks for 7$ a pop. I got several years worth Alex

Dave wrote up a TR. To me the interesting thing isnt really the new routes, but the fact that the ice was so good in this area despite the recent weather. http://students.washington.edu/dbb/ice/ice_climbing3/ice_climbing3.htm

Yeah Slot is a fun recon! This taken a few weeks ago.

Explored and climbed Sat (in light rain/snow). The area we went to (base elevation ~4000) was totally in, although from a distance it looked terrible. Close up the ice was not only solid, but fun, plastic, excellent time. Really made us reevaluate what conditions need to be like to get good ice climbing in even at lower elevations on the West side of the crest. I would suggest that anyone who is still interested in getting in some local ice this year not be dissuaded by the recent weather and get out somewhere above 4500 ft. Banks Lake wont be in, but seems like there will be good ice in the alpine mountain areas like Strobach or Lake Julius etc for a few weeks still. Freezing levels are down to 2500 this week.

fwiw, I think the rock in the northern pickets is junk, you probably made a good choice. if you go in again, go in via Whatcom Pass in earlier season when there is still snow at 5000. Casual sidehilling around Whatcom to Perfect Pass.

Last I checked, the Blues, Wallowas, Steens Mnt, the Eagle Cap were all in Oregon. Go to the cold! Don't wait for Multnomah Falls to form. I worked out of LaGrande, Joseph, John Day, and Bly for a year, and there is alot of good stuff out there and potential to explore. There are a few members on this board who reside in Enterprise/Joseph, and other points East that might give you some hints too, but go to the cold!! Alex

would you be more inclined to go in if it were an FA?

rockin'

if you load each photo separately in a browser, you'll see them fine. looking at the pics, you guys had very fortunate conditions! nice climb

A classic!!! http://www.idleworm.com/nws/2002/11/iraq2.shtml

THAT is funny!

chucK, happens to all of us, you made it down, good job.

Iain too bad you didnt come up, I also did that Wy'east (2a) variation Saturday. That was pretty nice, climbing up and through Steel Cliff was really neat, alot more elevation gain than you think it will be initially. I liked the ridge walk and the nice exposed finish with the deathfall potential there at the end

January 7th?

very cool. I've tried the Early Morning Couloir and did NE Shoulder, I like N Sister.

or a guidebook

man!! http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/Seattle/precip/jan2003t.htm

I was thinking of going in there myself. Chances are pretty fair it will be in. If the ice that connects Hidden to Second is not there, you can always bypass it on the NF.

I seriously doubt it (re: skiing Assguard). Its a looong approach for a very mediochre, boulder-and-tree strewn drop, and you cant ski back out easily to the car. Plus Enchantments typically get much less snow than other areas of the range. Prussik isnt the driest spot in central WA for nuthin'. I think the only people who go into Colchuck Lake this time of year are climbers. And with the weather lately, there hasnt been all that much reason to think that climbing there would be fun.

Jarred, the road is always closed in winter. The snow depth is always way low down low, and usually allows walking the first few miles, and gets deep as you get to the regular trailhead. If it hasnt snowed recently (a few weeks), there may be a well-pounded-out trail all the way to the Lake. But if it hasnt, you will need snowshoes or skis. If you go past the lake, you will 95% likely need snowshoes or skis anyway. HTH, Alex

* not in the area you define but gibraltar wall. * moonlight in the kananaskis. I didnt think either of those two were easy 4s. I found the 3rd pitch of Gibraltar to be as hard as anything on Weeping Left or Murchison. I climbed Moonlight in anemic conditions on like a -20some day, so maybe its easier when its fatter. * coire dubh integral if you like 700m M3's. I found coire dubh to be one of the lamest ice routes around. 30 feet of 3, followed by a long slog to 80 feet of 2. There are better uses of your time. If you do the integrale, go where there is actually ice on it.

Here's my list: Field: Without a doubt Guiness Gully. The first pitch can be brittle and picked out, and is typically the crux, but the entire route is really fun, easily approached, minimal av hazard, and a giveaway 4. Masseys offers a short pitch of easy 4 (was 3-3+ the year I did it) to several pitches of 2 rambling terrain, with no av hazard and fairly short approach along the tracks. Visible from the road, a good "first climb" on your first day there coming across from Golden. Louise Area: Linda Ice Nine. Did it for the first time this year, not to be missed. Miles of easy and enjoyable cruiser terrain leads to 2 more difficult pitches at the top, WI3+ and WI4. Louise Falls First 2 pitches or complete. The first 2 pitches are easy cruiser 2 or 3, while the final pitch often comes in at a committing 4 in later season. I usually do this route as a warm up on the first day, or when I want to only do a half day on the way home. Parkway: Bow Falls. Classic setting, your option of easier or harder climbing on the final pitch. Comes in early, stays in late. Snivelling Gully. For the easy Weeping Wall experience, on a weekday, Snivelling Gully is a really fun route that is very different in character from the routes just to the right. Banff: Cascade, if avalanche conditions permit. Do not underestimate av conditions on this route. Too many dead people. Do it on a weekday to avoid crowds. I would also recommend Professors, however its got several pitches of real 4 on it, so isnt exactly the easiest outing. Do it on a weekday to avoid crowds.

scott, if you want a partner, call me. I still am thinking about that project you and I were talking about last winter, I think it would be a stellar and frightening way to spend our time. Alex