DPS

Diamond Life on Bear Mt?

I agree with Kurt. The most versatile pair of pants I owned was a pair of Patagonia Talus pants. Lightweight and simple, they were incredably versatile. I used them rock climbing, aid climbing, skiing, ice climbing, and alpine climbing including winter ascents of Rainier and Mt Hunter in spring with insulated pants going over the top when it got cold.

I would not rely on melt water. I have done Emmons a few times and I don't remember any significant source of melt water when I was there. I always plan on enough fuel to melt all the water we will need.

My personal experience tells me that March-April are better months for TC. Just my 2 cents.

I ran the approach and deproach and soloed up and down the tooth in 2:15. The basin below the east face of the Tooth was hard snow which ultimately slowed me down what with all the back sliding. I hiked up Si with Mike May who claimed he walked the completey dry approach to the tooth for a round trip time of 1:58. As fast as Mike walked up Si I believe him.

The fastest I have heard is 1:58 car to car, that is the only time that really counts.

This sounds like the next crops of Colin Haleys.

I have a pair of Scarpa Summits that have proven to be an exellent all mountain and ice climbing boot. Similar to La Sportiva Neapal Evos but fit my wide foot much better.

What about a dry bag, the kind used by kayakers?

I use this exact rope as a single rope for moderate alpine ice and rock climbs.

I know the story but ain't spillin the beans.

I have done the Enchantments lake loop as a trail run and have often thought it would make a good ski (or snow shoe) tour. In the summer this took 6 hours and change. In the winter I would think 3 days since you have to hike/ski the road Stuart Lake trailhead. I think it would be perhaps easiest to start at Stuart Lake trail head and exit Snow Lakes trailhead (at least on skis). Avalanche conditions would be the key thing as there would be multiple slopes that would be threatened.

This summer I enjoyed relatively good health and opted to spend my vacation days by extending weekends so I could get to a bunch of routes that I would not normally be able to do in a weekend. Casaval Ridge - Mt Shasta NEB Goode Park Glacier Headwall - Baker Price Glacier - Mt Shuksan NEB Colchuck West Face Couloir to west ridge Stuart

One of my favorite climbs not in the Nelson guides is the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak. Good description in Beckey guide.

I found that this pad was warm enough to use by itself at 17k on Denali:http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442094579&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302701645&bmUID=1259250455593

Very nice photos!

November just may be the worst month to attempt Rainier. Bad weather, poor snow conditions, poorly bridged crevasses. Alternative would be go somewhere warm to rock climb, like J-Tree.

I'm in. My expenses are $1,000.

About 13 years ago I had Dan McHale strip down his SARC model to make an alpine climbing pack for me. This pack used the lightest materials he had, no extra zippers, and the smallest hip belt he could come up with. What I have now is a nearly industructable pack that is about the same size as an Andinista or CCW Chaos but in my experience carries and climbs signicantly better. While it is too big for most routes in the lower 48, it works really well for Alaskan climbs. I have used it on alpine style ascents of technical routes as well as on an expedition style ascent of Denali. It was 300.00 at the time, but it is much more durable than any pack I have seen. Just my 2 cents.

A 0 degree bag is probably all you need.

Wow, that does sound like a long story. We lucked out, every rappel went smoothly.

Nope. The climb and descent went off with out a hitch. We summitted at 2:00. Hiking back under the north face on our way out we heard voices and wondered what was up. Were you up there too?

This couch climber was on Prusik peak.

Generally, the superior quality of older homes is due to superior construction practices, not a difference in materials. Let's see, what materials do my 1911 Craftsman and a modern home have in common? That would be none. Sounds like we got ourselves a tender fingered office worker who's never pounded a nail here, boys. My grandfather worked as a carpenter for over 70 years. He once said "People say they don't build 'em like they used to. Well, they built 'em like crap back then too!"

If folks are looking for cheap housing, my next door neighbor got foreclosed. The asking price is about 200,000 lower than comparable homes in the neighborhood and is priced what condos and townhomes go for. It would be cool to get a neighbor who climbs.