DPS

Anybody use the Montbell Alpine Pack 50? If so how does it carry and climb? How is the durability? How do you attach crampons to it? Thanks, Dan

These photos beg the question why are they climbing the side of a dam? For the practice?

Not to shit on your idea, but why not hire a local Kiwi guide? You won't have to pay for airfare or accommodations so it probably won't cost you that much more and you pretty much know that by hiring an IFMGA certified guide you are gettting a top notch guide who knows the local conditions.

Nice trip report and excellent photos of an aspect I had not seen before. Thank you.

I went with the Vipers purely because I found a pair on sale for $90.00 off of retail. More than enough of a savings to justify buying the Black Diamond spinner umbilicals. Looks like this old climber is joining the 21 century, already in progress.

That you for your considered opinion. When I say mixed, I mean the origninal meaning of mixed - 'alpine mixed' not bolted sport climbs. I have placed enough pitons and hacked out enough belay ledges and bollards to appreciate a proper hammer and adze.

Certainly is good advice when buying wine.

So, my wife has decided to start ice climbing again and since I gave away my ice tools and have been using hers the last couple of years that means I need a new pair. I have narrowed down my choices to the Black Diamond Viper and the new version of the Petzl Quark. I will use the tools for winter alpine and mixed climbing and frozen waterfalls and am considering trying the leashless thing. (I have used various leashless tools for dry tool cragging, but never in the alpine or on waterfall routes). What say the peanut gallery? Quark or Viper. Thanks for you considered opinions.

As long as you aren't melting snow for water, just heating liquid water for cooking then 2 8 oz cannisters should be more than enough.

Shit, I had nightmares about it for three days and it wasn't even me who nearly got chopped.

I use a piece of 3/8" OSB (Oriented Strand Board) with 1/2" holes drilled to reduce weight as a stove base, although I have never used it inside the tent (inside vestibule yes) so I can't vouch that it won't melt your tent floor. It will keep it from melting into the snow though.

Good suggestion.

Black Peak

He is a well known scholar, archelogist, author of many books on the subject and professor at a University.

Thanks Alasdair. I recall Jason Martin saying it was his favorite country to guide in. Maybe if I ever get well enough I will plan a trip.

Mt Baker. You would have some learning to do (roped travel, z- haul system, Prusiking) etc. but it is an extremely worthy objective.

I did the Coleman-Demming route about a month ago. We did not take snow shoes but they would have been helpful for the deep, soft snow conditions we found between tiberline and the glacier especially on the hike out. Otherwise the route at that time was in really good shape with an excellent boot track and no open crevasses. With the cool weather I doubt conditions would have changed a whole lot.

I have the Grivel Air Tech Light and like them for appproaches, mellow glacier slogs, and ski mountaineering. They fit well on everything from approach shoes to ski boots. The one complaint I have is that the bottom points are a bit short so in some circumstances they feel a bit sketchy (e.g. thin layer of snow over ice).

Your loss, I have no interest in climbing with folks with no sense of humor.

Has anyone in the group done anything athletic or just played children's ball games?

Congratulations! I climbed Shasta last Memorial Day weekend via Casaval Ridge and really enjoyed the experience. The parking lot at Bunny Flats was in full on party mode when we rolled in.

Hey, Mr RainierGroup, I am no way interested in being paid or otherwise compensated to guide you, however, I may be interersted in climbing with you since you have the permits all worked out. I would also be happy to show you everything I know (would take about 15 minutes). I sent you a PM and can also be reached at bighurtbob@hotmail.com.

Jens, No, I took two days - car to car in 30 hours, with a 12 hour bivi at Thumb Rock. I have a partner who did the route car to car in under 24 hours. The 18 hours is something I heard somewhere, yet seems very reasonably given good acclimatiztion and conditions. Dan Dan

Yes, it is possible and has been done in as little as 18 hours car to car, although that may not be the record.

Many good options on sale here: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/search/SearchResults.aspx?allwords=mountaineering+boots&searchdescriptions=True&page=1