DPS

Thanks! Coming from you that is a huge compliment!

I am pretty darn sure we climbed the Price Glacier. The bike ride is 13 miles which took 39 minutes riding not fast.

Good question. Mt Shuksan is a pretty classic peak and the Price Glacier is a very good ice climb, so yeah, I would say it deserves its classic status.

It will probably still go. Bear in mind that there was a lot of route finding and some very steep pitches. And it is exposed to serac fall.

Photos added.

We were able to climb ice the entire way. No rock climbing necessary.

Trip: Mt Shuksan - Price Glacier Date: 8/15/2009 Trip Report: jesselillis and climbed Price Glacier over the weekend. We approached under cloudy skies and got very wet from wet brush. We found a great campsite on a rock bench right below the glacier. We woke up the next day to clearer skies. By 6:30 we were climbing. We climbed a lot of ice, some it very steep. We simu-climbed some of the easier snow fields. At one point a serac calved off right above Jesse at a belay. Fortunately most of the debris went into a crevasse and Jesse as unhurt. We summited a little over 12 1/2 hours after starting. We had hoped to get below Winnie's Slide to bivi, but darkness over took us and we bivied on the glacier. The next day we woke and were on the move by 6 AM. Then, displaying the kind of brillance I am known for, I led us down the wrong way. We survived the descent and made it out to the car 12 hours (!) later. I retrieved my bike from the Lake Ann trailhead parking lot and rode down to the car then came back and picked up Jesse. It is a wonder I didn't get lost somewhere in between. All in all a great trip with a super strong partner. Log crossing Rock slab bivi Price Glacier Close up of Price Glacier A steep pitch High on the route Just before nearly getting clobbered by serac fall Looking down the summit pyramid ridge The inobvious descent route Gear Notes: Used 6 screws and 2 pickets Approach Notes:

Last year at the rope up Tokogirl and I did the Enchantment Lakes loop trail run one of the days. I would like to do another trail run and would love company. Anybody care to join me? We can run a different trail this year (Icicle Ridge perhaps?).

I have always camped at the hairpin right off of the road. There are official campgrounds east of Washington Pass.

For a route of similar difficulty, but with many more technical pitches try the NE Buttress of Colchuck Peak.

Washington Pass: Silverstar Mountain via Burgundy Col Black Peak via S Ridge Cascade Pass: Sahalee Peak Eldorado Peak (very easy glacier travel - I have never roped up) Stuart Range/Enchantments: Mt Stuart via Cascadian Couloir Dragontail Little Annapurna Mt Baker Hwy: Ruth Mt (very easy glacier travel - I have never roped up) Icy Peak (very easy glacier travel - I have never roped up)

There might be some crevasses you could lower into on the Cowlitz.

Best. Trip report. Ever.

Don't make me solo the mighty Tooth. Again.

I want to break in my new approach shoes so I am looking to skip church and do an early run up the Tooth tomorrow (Sunday). Will consider alternate objectives of a similar nature. If interested please email bighurtbob@hotmail.com. Thanks, Dan

Aren't you two just the cutest alpine couple!

This reminds me of when my daughter was 8 and we climbed Diedre. There was a party of two dudes behind us grousing about getting stuck behind us. We were up, over, and back at the car while they were still on pitch 4.

Kit Lewis' slide show reminded me of a cross beteen Mark Twight and Jerry Lewis. Pure gold!

A liter of tequila, 20 miligrams of mescaline, some crayola crayons, duct tape, and 40 yards of bailing twine. Not every rope up will be like last year.

That's crazy, Jeff.

Excellent advice.

Last year I did the Enchantments loop trail run. It was super fun. Anybody care to join me this year?

Pete Sinclair has a nice account of this rescue in his book "We Aspired - The Last Innocent Americans".

The start of the Beckey, at least the way we went, was very good, clean 5.8 climbing. The second pitch went through the band of pink rock that was super loose. After that it was pretty good again.

Michael Stanton and I did it in August car to car in a reasonable day: http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2002/forbidden.htm. Conditions seemed perfect.