DPS

Last time I spent the night in the Muir shelter there were six of us, two were former Mt Rainier climbing rangers. I won't out who it was, but one asked if anybody had any pot.

Why all the hate for the shelter? I prefer it to carrying a tent or sleeping in a cave. To each his own I guess.

Come clean Alex. I introduced you to your wife who was already a kick ass climber.

Not sure about that. Yep, among the mountaineers you see alot of engineers, doctors, etc. But among the doctors you see alot less % of mountaineers. Any mountain guide will tell you doctors make up an unusally large percentage of their guests.

The mullet and spandex undies do make me weep.

Not sure about that.

I don't know any personal trainers who climb, but know a few who are into other time intensive sports like Ironman triathalons and such. Not a bad gig really. Get a job in Bellevuve, Issaquah and train hot soccer moms.

The bugaboo on N Ridge Pinnacle Peak (I erroneously wrote Pyramid) is a beehive shaped gendarme of compact andesite. Well featured for climbing, but hard to get pro. Bring KBs/Bugaboo pitons.

I had read that Hermann Buhl had used some kind of stimulants as well.

That was sort of my thinking too.

I use 7mm perlon cord instead of tublular webbing for rappel anchors. In my mind the round cord weakens less than webbing when ropes are pulled over it. I have no idea if this is true or if any testing has been done, but I figure it can't be any worse. Anybody seen data to support or refute this notion?

Vicodin is far from hardcore pain meds, basically Tylenol and a little codeine. In my kit I carry the following drugs: Sodium Naproxen (Aleve) - the strongest NSAID Asprin Garlic tablets Keflex broad spectrum antibiotic Dilaudid - real pain killer I have had a lot of experience with these drugs and my knowledge outstrips most folks due to my education and personal experience. Obviously, one needs to know when not to take these drugs, (when they are contraindicated) as well as when to take them. These are all for personal use, dispensing them to patients without a medical license is a no no. Other drugs like dexamethazone I don't carry because I generally don't climb higher than 6000 meters. Also don't carry Diamox because I don't have problems at the moderate altitudes I climb at.

Pretty much concur with Water: Bottoms Briefs (boxer-briefs - the best of both worlds) Mid Weight long underwear Mid weight soft shell pants Gaitors Top Mid weight long sleeve zip tee Marmot DriClime windshirt Montbell Versalite shell Patagonia Micropuff hooded parka polypro glove liners Fleece gloves Primaloft insulated gloves Warm hat Ski goggles

Matt meant the North Ridge of Pinnacle. Easy in a day.

There was a place in Squamish that did that kind of work. That was years ago, not sure if they are still in business.

I have also used a big Arc'Teryx Bora, it was a cushy pack.

Or an aluminum extension ladder.

From here:http://www.adn.com/2012/02/20/2327695/sole-avalanche-survivor-we-werent.html 'We weren't being idiots,' "I pulled the trigger," she said, inflating two air bags attached to her backpack. "Unfortunately, the freak accident happened," she said. "One of the skiers (above me) set off the avalanche." "I was lucky. I'm alive because of a safety device that a lot of people aren't aware of," Saugstad said. "I want to get the word out that these packs are available and they work. "If this wasn't a good example, I don't know what is."

Switched to Chrome, works fine. Like the Sterno stove stand!

What am I doing wrong that I can't access the blog?

Trying to access your blog via the link and it won't display. Is the link correct? Anxious to see it. Thanks.

I read an account attributed to the woman stating she had skiied the line and was waiting in trees when another skiier set off the slide entraining her and her companions.

Good luck with the tryouts. Try to be tall and caucasion if you can help it. Cut your hair, take out earings, cover up any tattoos.

Or pick up a Black Diamond Betamid for $79.00. Easy to pitch, rock solid in surprisingly nasty conditons, very durable.

I don't agree with that. I field about one job offer a week. I've had to tell some recruiters to stop calling me. Heck, I took my car to have the emissions inspected and was offered a job. I think if you have a few different skill sets you should be ok.