dbb

what cha got on there neri, some kind o tea cup handle?

Climb: Mt. Maude-West Couloir Date of Climb: 12/23/2004 Trip Report: Climbed Mt. Maude with MtnPhil in a long day last Thursday by the couloir on the West Face. Snow conditions were pretty good with solid neve above about 7000 ft, and we were about 12 hours round trip from the Phelps creek trailhead. Third time was a charm for Phil! details here Gear Notes: truck, snowmobile, skis, snowshoes, crampons, boots in that order. Approach Notes: were were more or less able to follow the summer approach.

Nice writing, sounds like a great trip. Felt like I was there minus the demons. Way to go after it.

it's obvious who the asshole is though, isn't it.

Haven't seen Preiss's letter in the new R&I, but what's the controversy? They are two routes that share the moderate/easy terrain on the same feature and done in totally different styles. Was there mention of how both routes relate to the Whitelaw route done 30 years ago? I imagine they must have exploited some of the same weaknesses.

at the rap wall you can walk around to the left (west) and come in from above the climbs. lots of slings to assist in rapping down to the chains. TR away!

word to both!

People running drugs down Ross lake in the Winter. One time we got a suspicious eye from a ranger when we had four people with huge packs and one snomobile. You'd think he'd at least be impressed that we were carpooling.

I've heard the kerkeslin is a great climb for the grade...

The pick is obviously replacable physically. Just three allen bolts with nuts on the back. Guess you'll just have to wait for grivel to decide to sell them individually. When I picked up a pair the other day they felt good in my hand. like said above, they have a very neutral feel to the swing, but you can change that to a index-finger-rotation like swing by choking up on the lower grip. These tools feel way burly for their weight too. Be interested to tool around w/ them someday... maybe Grivel should sponsor an ice fest 'round these parts.

You can use these in your slide show if you want.. I also have a pic of Kitty Hawk, though not online... This house of sky: north ridge forbidden:

hear that distel?? pebble FA potential! screw mongolia nice bait PP. I was going to say that if ice is formed in that area, it suuuuuure don't look all nice and clean like that.

meowse trap? lot of stuff looking like that around snoqualmie pass... long way to go.

I like Alpinefox's tree better. sorry oly, but yours is ooogly

careful! she might be using Layton-speak. seems like kevin is preparing for use of aid. I agree w/ sobo. I try to keep my picks sharp, but more like butter knife sharp. I don't worry too much about having a strait razor sharp edge on the tip of the pick, just that it is symetrical and comes to a point. Remember when you file it to file in one direction, and make that direction away from the tip (i.e. file towards the adze). This will keep you from sharpening a little thin fin on the tip.

as I recall VW will let you defer your membership for like 2-3 months

whole lot of that is seattle, but my fav's are: Thai-ger Room Thai Tom very simmilar food, heard that Thai-ger room was started by Thai Tom owner's ex-SO. She takes the menu, expands it and opens almost the same resteraunt that much closer to the UW.

It's just like Phil's "Where's Fred Beckey"! Thanks again for putting that on Jon, and to all the people who showed slides. good times.

great beacon

Wow, a soob in the Ghost! Did you attempt the river crossings? Seems like most of the time in other vehicles I've gotten away w/o chains almost all the time. It's just when you do need 'em... sounds like real chains have come a ways in technology. "What, you don't have to drive on top to put em on? oooooooh". Thx

Well, along the lines of the tire thread... I'm looking to get a set of chains for my Taco. I hear real chain is the only way to go. Anyone have a particular brand they like? all 4 wheels, or am I just asking for trouble at that point?

Went to the Rockies, climbed some ice, had a good time. Lots of TR's and info here. A particularly difficult on-sight solo by ken4ord

Lake Louise hostel sauna... looks like he's got a logo now too

very nice route. as I recall I used 3x #2 camalot sized pieces for the upper hand crack. You'll need .75 to #1 for the steep thin crack below the tree. Hexes would work great as the crack is not very parallel. like sobo said, lots of rests and good jams.

Ice Floes, Marmot Ice Motos and OR's new glove like these are great for ice climbing if you're good at using them. They're thin, dextrous lead gloves. Put 'em on for the lead/follow, pull them off at the belay and put them in your jacket to keep them warm (because they're probably wet by now). Put on thick dry gloves for the belay and your hands stay warm. You can minimize the wetness of the palm somewhat by putting some waterproofing wax on them. I wouldn't imagine that these would be good for multiday climbing in warm wet temps, but that's what shell gloves w/ removable liners are for. They're definitely not the "perfect" glove, and I almost prefer the insulated Atlas rubber gloves more, but they're pretty good.