JasonG

Trip: The Triad - East Ridge to Main Summit Trip Date: 08/06/2022 Trip Report: All the hardman FA glory on the site is pretty amazing this summer, but what is the blue collar climber to aspire to, you might ask? Well, the Triad of course! Nothing worse than low fifth (or old skool 4th) and an energetic approach separate mere mortals from the club of North Cascadian summits. It didn't take much to convince @Trent and @Kit to join me on an 11 hour ramble in the alpine a few weeks ago (even though Steve had already climbed it), following this excellent topo drawn by @Stefan: We started the morning watching a bear....get shot....in the meadows above the trail. I have to say that it was a bit surprising to hear a shot ring out and watch it tumble down the slope toward us! A first for me. But the MBSNF is the "land of many uses" and who am I to judge? I like meat as much as the next chossdawg. Just maybe wear orange after 8/1, eh. Regardless, we made good time to the pass above the trail and began the sound of music ridge run towards the Triad. Not much to report on the traverse to the peak that isn't included in the excellent topo. My thumb was still pretty buggered so @Trent was on the hook to lead the technical bits, which he dispatched without trouble. Difficulties were short-lived (1 pitch) and soon we rambled our way to the highest of the three dicks (read Green Fred for the full story). The day was perfect, without a soul around, so nice on an August Saturday in the increasingly busy North Cascades. And it remained quiet (no other parties) until we were back on the trail, close to the car. There are still lonesome weekend day trips out there! Gear Notes: Crampons, helmet, axe, light 60m rope, very small rack if you want to belay 4th class bits. Approach Notes: Sibley Creek Trail. Watch out for bear hunters!

I use the TX4s and they have a bit wider toebox. Pretty nice approach shoe: https://www.sportiva.com/tx4.html

Sounds like a tale, hopefully somebody chimes in! There really aren't that many ascents over the years of that buttress. I would think someone on here would know the owner of that head.

In this particular case, maaaaaaaaaaybe?

I am too busy with work and home projects, but who knows.....would be fun to actually meet people!

Inquiring minds want to know @Sam Boyce and @Kposaune....did you find the grape soda can @pms may have "forgotten" on the mountain? Legend has it that @Juan Sharp will pay handsomely for it. You covered ground that hasn't been searched yet!

This is what I love about the mountains, well put! And I love having the chance to be able to meet everyday heros like @seano- and @Eric Gilbertson, @pms @rat and @lunger and a bunch of others when roaming the hills. Super inspiring!

Oh man.....that sounds and looks like a terrifying adventure. To willingly go up into that insanity is a display of impressive choss jedi skillz!

This whole global 24/7 satellite internet thing is going to get way out of hand. Say goodbye to stargazing as we know it within a couple decades. And great trip report of a classic!

Absolutely. I made it so! Seriously, what an impressive effort and great story. And you actually seemed to be having fun!

I don't have anything to add other than that is amazing history, thanks @pms! And you too @Juan Sharp, though I've heard your stories already. And, of course @JonParker, for living to tell the tale!

Yikes. I remember that it didn't inspire confidence even about 10 years ago. A silvery exterior with nugat center!

@rat with the John McLaughlin finish to the TR!

Oh man....so sorry to hear this. Condolences to his friends and family, I wish that I had met Daniel.

BLUE COLLAR ALPINISM AWARD OF THE WEEK! I know it's only Monday but.... Love it!

absolutely, wow!

Good eye @dberdinka! At home, with careful looking, that really jumped out at me. These glacier have thinned dramatically in the last 19 years, as well as retreated. You may not be wrong about them evaporating one day in the not too distant future.

At first I didn't notice the bike in the photo and thought you were referring to the pace he set @olyclimber

Wow, I was afraid of that.

Feel free to post other examples from the Cascades if you have them!

I got back from a repeat of the Ptarmigan after 19 years and it is pretty amazing the glacial recession in that time (2003 was a lean snow year and 2022 phat as well). Here are a couple examples: LeConte in 2003: LeConte in 2022: Chickamin Glacier in 2003: Chickamin Gl in 2022:

Everything is so phat in that Roper photo! I imagine that was during high summer? My how the glaciers continue to shrink.

Start to finish, completely rad. So much stoke, so much youth! Love to see the next generation at the height of their "storm years"!!

This is one of my favorite routes in the range, but I haven't been back since the road washed out in 2003. Need to change that! But over 4 days for this old guy.... Great report, thanks! Oh, and for future parties, you can avoid the dangerous bit on the Kennedy by going around the north side of Kennedy peak. A bit longer, but quite mellow and scenic- that's how we went.

Looks like a nice and tasty weekend! Love the links to the trips on your memory lane!